After yesterday’s big day, today’s hike to Loboche was a little more user friendly. We climbed back up to the saddle above Dingboche to the small stupa and then descended a wee bit to the gently sloping peat covered bench that would escort us to Deboche. Right now, the peat is dry and brown but I am told that once the monsoon hits, they green right up and yak herders bring their yaks to eat and get strong.
There are several stone herder dwellings on the bench-some with permanent slate roofs and some that will have a blue tarp roof in season. Climber Smurf and I paused at this dwelling for a few pictures.
All of the dwellings are surrounded by rock walls that act as pens for the yaks. On one trip to Nepal, one of my Sherpas explained that yaks are weaker and can’t carry as much in spring as they can in fall since they spend the summer grazing. Hiking on the bench is great because there are expansive views both looking back from whence we came and looking forward to where we’re headed. Climber Smurf is looking back at Ama Dablam (the star of many of yesterday’s pictures).
There is always an exciting moment when we catch a glimpse of Pumori. I was on a Pumori expedition in 2008. It’s name translates as Everest’s daughter and it presided over much of today’s trek.
Pumori is the triangular peak that Climber Smurf is looking toward. After two hours of walking, the bench drops to the Khumbu Glacier moraine at Dhugla. You can see the Dhugla Tea Houses at the left side of the picture. You can also see the trail that leads up to Memorial Hill.
We stopped for a hot drink there and then headed up the hill with just a slight pause at the memorial chortens for climbers who have died on Everest and surrounding peaks. It is always intense and sad to pass through and I always pause and reflect there on my ultimate goal of safe return. Today was no exception.
Another hour’s walk brought us to Loboche around noon just in time for lunch. I had garlic soup and fried potatoes with vegetables and an egg. There are a few more lodges/tea houses here in Loboche since I was last here in 2010. Our lodge is filling fast with trekkers heading both up to base camp and back down the Khumbu. Lots of people are coughing so so have my buff up as a bit of a barrier as I type this. I managed to wear it about half the hike again today. I am able to wear it all night which is great for giving my throat and lungs warm and humidified air to breathe. My cough continues to improve.
This picture is for Linda Cox. It’s my boots after I kicked them off today. Linda painted me a wonderful picture after one of my last Everest expeditions. It’s called “Journey’s End.” Linda also had cards printed of the painting to help with my fundraising and she’s recently gotten it framed for me. I wanted her to know I was thinking about her today when I saw my boots. Linda undertook a big Everest last summer when she completed the Tickle Swim for Mental Health from Portugal Cove to Bell Island. I hear she has plans for a big bicycle ride now as well.
Tonight is our last night indoors as we’ll arrive in base camp tomorrow. Everyone is looking forward to being there and getting into climb mode. The trek is an awesome walk and great for acclimatization and I highly recommend it as a life experience. The Everest Base Camp trek suffered little damage from the earthquake and it’s business as usual in the Khumbu.
Thanks for all the encouraging web site posts, Facebook posts, Twitter retweets, and texts to my sat phone. Your words and appreciation brighten my day and remind me of why I love to share my adventures with you. It’s a wonderful cycle of co-inspiration where our words encourage each other to keep on keeping on. If I miss replying or giving a shout-out, please forgive as I’m operating with limited and expensive internet/sat phone charges across several platforms and it’s easy to lose a message between my devices. Thank you thank you thank you for thinking of me and the entire expedition team. Your thoughts and prayers are very appreciated.
Catch you next from base camp.
TA
Latitude:27.94838
Longitude:86.81049
GPS location Date/Time:04/23/2016 04:41:31 NDT
Message:Everest 3.0: This is TA’s location on Everest. Send warm wishes & good thoughts. To the summit & safe return!
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Happy Find Your Fit Friday to ALL! TA is the ambassador for Recreation Newfoundland and Labrador’s Find Your Fit Campaign. How are you finding your fit?
Find Your Fit! is a provincial physical activity promotions/communications campaign designed to get individuals motivated and moving towards healthy, active living.
Quote for the Day
Climb the mountains and get their good tidings. Nature’s peace will flow into you as sunshine flows into trees. The winds will blow their own freshness into you, and the storms their energy, while cares will drop off like autumn leaves. ~John Muir
Did You Know?
Nepal experiences a monsoon season which runs from the end of June to mid September during which 80% of the annual rain falls.
Find Your Fit Fact
Winded by grocery shopping or household chores? Regular physical activity can improve your muscle strength and boost your endurance. Exercise and physical activity deliver oxygen and nutrients to your tissues and help your cardiovascular system work more efficiently. And when your heart and lungs work more efficiently, you have more energy to go about your daily chores.
Activity Suggestion:
Warm-up: Base Camp Set Up
Equipment:
Background Information: Tents are an important piece of equipment for climbers on expeditions as it provides them with shelter and for longer expeditions it can be their home away from home. It will also protect them from the elements (wind, rain, snow, etc) and gives them an area to take break when climbing. This warm-up you will use the parachute to make a tent.
Instructions: For this warm-up each student will hold onto a black handle of the parachute. As a group, the students will raise their parachute by lifting their arms above their head to make the parachute into a mushroom shape. When the center of the parachute has reached its highest peak, the entire group will go under the parachute and sit on the edges to keep it from deflating.
Note: You can also try doing this but instead of going under the parachute and sitting on the edges, you can have the students lie on the stomach putting just their head under.
Activity: Falling Rocks
Equipment:
Background Information: When climbing you must be aware of where you are stepping, especially for unsteady surfaces, like rocks. Unsteady rocks can be dangerous to step on and it is important for climber to be aware of this for their own safety.
Set up: On each end of the playing area (volleyball court size is ideal, or with a large group basketball court), set up 10 cones each on the back line placing a tennis ball on each cone. Place the 6-10 medium balls at the centerline.
Instructions: Begin by dividing the class into 2 teams and get them to line up on either end of the gym. On the teachers command they will race to the center to get the medium balls. They will then roll the ball to try and knock down the opponent’s tennis balls. The game lasts until one team knocks down all the tennis balls from their opponent.
Today’s trek up Nagarsang was hard. Really hard. But good. In the end. Today reminded me of the quote, “High altitude climbing is like hitting your head against the wall, they both feel good when you stop.”
We had breakfast a bit early and headed off up the steep hill that borders Dingboche. I knew the day was likely to be challenging when, right out of the gate, I couldn’t see to find a rhythm. With the terrain being so steep, I couldn’t find a step pace that let me keep my breathing in the nose only so I had to stop and let my breathing settle over and over again.
Climber Smurf and I led the way to the small stupa on the saddle above Dingboche. Smurf loves prayer flags as much as I do so we stopped to take a few pics.
Hugo and Ade joined us. Both were climbing well and they soon were out of sight up the hill. I kept trying all of my strategies such as counting steps, timing my breathing my steps, and using mantras. Nothing seemed to solve the situation so I kept stopping and starting, starting and stopping. I gave myself a goal of three hours of climbing rather than the top of Nagarsang just as a way of changing the dynamic in my head. It was feeling so hard and the top was SO far away, that a more nebulous goal was less intimidating. I kept starting and stopping. Stopping and started. Bill and Amit caught me and passed but they were also struggling to find the groove as well. We all kept stepping. Eventually, Bill seemed to find his pace and Amit and I commiserated as we kept making our way up the hill slowly.
Eventually, we spotted the prayer pole on the summit of Nagarsang and we knew we would make the top (the map calls it just over 5200 meters) Bill waved us in and we bundled up to spend two hours acclimatizing on top. The views on top were stunning making all the hard work and mental struggle of getting there totally worthwhile.
The climb was almost a 1000 metres of elevation gain and it’s reasonably steep. I’ve been up to the summit of Nagarsang five times now and each time I’ve so enjoyed the view. In 2010, a group of trekkers from Newfoundland, hiked into base camp with me. We took a NL flag up with us so I wanted to bring the flag up once again. Amit captured the picture above of me with the flag and I took the picture of Amit when he had the idea that the wind might inflate the flag just off the summit.
From the summit, you can see down the valley from where we came from (the direction that Amit is pointing).
You can see over to the summit of Ama Dablam (behind Climber Smurf and the peak I attempted in Fall of 2015). You can see up to Island Peak and the Amphu Labcha as well as over to the Cho La (both passes we crossed on the Great Himalayan Trail). It was beautiful in all directions.
After our two hour sojourn, we headed back down and enjoyed the descent. The big ridge we descended gave us great views of Dingboche.
As is the pattern, the clouds have rolled in once again, the temperature has dropped, and the skies are no longer blue. I had a great lunch of a veggie burger and chips chilli (French fries covered in chilli sauce). I have a tiny headache from the oxygen debt I built up this morning but I am breathing deep and hydrating well.
I did my best to steer clear of “future dread thinking” i.e. If this is this hard today, what will it be like at twice this elevation? I’m proud I reached the top on a day I couldn’t find my groove. Pushing through and using perseverance will serve me well the next time, my groove is playing hide and seek. I’m also proud I managed to wear my Find Your Fit NL buff about half the time on my way up and all the way down.
I realized today that there is only one more week in the Recreation NL Community Find Your Fit Challenge. I hope lots of folks have been getting themselves moving and finding some fun and exciting new ways to Find Their Fits.
I think it can be easy to forget how hard life at altitude can be. Today was a reminder. You can’t store acclimatization-you have to earn it each time. It’s hard to do but good to do. By working hard, the views that I get to see will bring joys for years to come.
After our Puja with Lama Geshe, we trekked from Pangboche to Dingboche. We’ve left the trees behind and small scrubs dot the landscape. Stone walls mark pastures and fields.
Along the way we were treated to our fourth view of Everest. We won’t see it again now until we get close to base camp. You can see the wall of clouds flying from the summit. Everest’s top is likely still well within the jet stream winds. During a time in mid to late May, the jet stream veers North and winds on the summit are calmer. This time is often referred to as “the summit window.” Teams aim to have everything in place for that five to ten day period where the winds may be lighter allowing climbers to chance to summit.
The terrain became rockier and rockier as we neared Dingboche and we were crossing ancient glacial moraines. Here we are crossing a river before the last climb up to Dingboche. We made the transition from 3900 to 4400 meters so we’re all feeling our first hours at a new elevation. Small headaches come and go…we breathe and drink to get them to pass. Coming up the hill to Dingboche today I was taking a breathe every two steps and still aiming to only breathe through my nose.
Climber Smurf did well-here he is posing in front of the yak pasture that is in front of our tea house. Today’s tea house is appropriately called, “The Good Luck Lodge.”
Here is the view behind Climber Smurf. If the afternoon clouds had not built up, you would be seeing Ama Dablam, the peak that I attempted in the fall of 2015.
It’s great to be here remembering all the fine expeditions that had me here before. Dingboche and Pheriche (village just down the hill at 4200 meters) are common acclimatization stops. We will stay here for two nights and climb high tomorrow to prepare our bodies for the move to Loboche, the day after.
Dendi is taking great care of the expedition team, including Climber Smurf. It’s much cooler here in Dingboche so I already have my long woollies on. Once the sun goes behind a cloud or sets, the temperature plummets. It will likely drop to near freezing tonight. Another fine day and I need to go de-hydrate after all the hydrating I have been doing. Thanks for following along!
Thanks to Indian River High School Grade 7’s for sending me a picture of them competing some of the Everest 3.0 curriculum. Welcome aboard to you!
Today was a day of blessings and memories. In the picture above, Lama Geshe is tying a protection cord around my neck. The red cord, which is called a sungdi in the Sherpa language, has a special knot that Lama tied in it. At the end of the blessing ceremony, each climber presented Lama Geshe with a kata (blessing scarf) which Lama then put around our neck and then he tied the sungdi around our necks. I have almost the exact same picture from our Puja in 2008 for Mt. Pumori except that my hair is pink. 🙂
Lama Geshe also wrote our names on a special card. We are to carry the card when climbing for protection on the mountain. If we reach the summit, we are to take a picture of ourselves with the card and send it back to Lama. I told Lama Geshe my Buddhist name, Tsultrim Mig Gya, and he smiled in the way that he smiles and then he wrote my name on the card.
I became a Buddhist by participating in a Refuge ceremony in 2005. During that ceremony, I received my refuge (Buddhist) name from my teacher, Moh Hardin. My name translates as Discipline Great Vision and is said to be my path.
We also all received a runung (Sherpa language). In Nepali, they are called a buti. This was very, very special and the first time I have received one during a Puja. The runung is a small square of material that contains mantras, prayers, and something from Tibet that Lama brought with him 22 years ago. The material is tied shut with green and red string tied in a special way. At base camp, we will sew another piece of fabric around the runung so we can attach it to our sungdi to also wear while climbing (actually to wear all the time…24/7…I am still wearing my sungdi from Pujas in 2010, 2014, and 2015).
Climber Smurf was also in attendance. In the picture above, he’s waiting on the table for the Puja to begin. Lama Geshe smiled at him. After the Puja, I shared my blessed kata with Climber Smurf so he could experience it as well.
Beside Lama Geshe, there were butter lamps burning and bowls of water as offerings. If you look carefully, you can see a picture of the Dala Lama and other Lamas behind the butter lamps.
The air was also thick with the smoke from incense burning. The incense was placed on the stove that heats Lama Geshe’s home. In the stove, they will burn dried yak dung. They usually start the dung burning with a combination of small sticks and a bit of kerosene. The yak dung is collected from pastures and pressed into paddies, sometimes with a bit of grass or straw. It’s a common and renewable fuel source that’s used here in the Khumbu.
We will have another Puja in base camp. Lama Geshe checked his calendar and said that April 28 was an auspicious date to have that ceremony. The Sherpas, already at base camp, had a mini Puja before they started working on the mountain. They will join us on April 28 for our whole team Puja. In the picture below, Lama Geshe is telling Dendi, the date for our base camp Puja.
The Puja marks a transition towards the climb and I always feel better moving towards the mountain once we’ve spent this time with Lama Geshe. Lama was very sick last year and I am so grateful that he recovered so I could receive his blessing once more.
Famous Explorer TA Loeffler
Quote of the Day:
“Today is your day! Your mountain is waiting, So… get on your way!” – Dr. Seuss
Did you Know?
The first attempt to summit mount Everest was in 1922 however no one actually summited until 1953
Suggested Activity:
What Did These Famous Explorers Do?
Objective: This activity connects famous explorers with their photos to foster connections between exploring and the students.
Instructions:
Click the link for ‘What Did These Famous Explores Do?’ worksheet and answer key
Famous Explorers Worksheet Answer Key
TA
Latitude:27.89210
Longitude:86.82850
GPS location Date/Time:04/21/2016 06:07:37 NDT
Message:Everest 3.0: This is TA’s location on Everest. Send warm wishes & good thoughts. To the summit & safe return!
Click the link below to see where I am located.
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This was the view of Everest that greeted us as we rounded the corner from Namche. Three days in a row. It’s getting a lite closer each day. Everest was the biggest thing I saw today but I also saw yaks for the first time. Yaks are bigger and hairier that zhous.
I also saw some small things. Tiny wild flowers and blooming rhododendrons dotted the trail.
It’s dry this spring so it isn’t quite as colourful with wild flowers as some times but I enjoyed keeping my eye out for the small along with the big.
I know folks are often interested in the wildlife that we might see so I snapped this picture of a wildlife poster in our tea house. I haven’t seen any wild things yet but I have on other treks.
Speaking of small things, Climber Smurf enjoyed the walk today as well. In this pic, Climber Smurf is enjoying a view of Everest.
In my audio update, I mentioned checking out all the time zones represented by schools that are following along as well as team members. In case it was hard to hear…we have team members from Newfoundland, Connecticut, Minnesota, the United Kingdom, and Nepal. We have schools from Newfoundland, Labrador, Alberta, California, and North Carolina. That’s 10 times zones…how awesome is that? What are the names of all of those time zones? The Nepali word for time is samaya.
Here’s a map from a coffee shop. It has elevations of some of the places I mentioned in my audio update. The only place that’s not on the map is Phugitenga. Perhaps a little research will yield the elevation :-). There are many spellings of village names.
Finally, here is one of the Snow Lions guarding the entrance gate of Tengboche Monastery…it appears to be taking a small bite out of Ama Dablam.
Quote of the Day:
“Somewhere between the bottom of the climb and the summit is the answer to the mystery why we climb.” – Greg Child
Did You Know?
Apa Sherpa holds the world record for the most Mount Everest Summits at 21 summits. They call him Super Sherpa.
Activity Suggestion:
Leave No Trace
Objective: Inform students about respect for the environment through the use of Leave No Trace Principles.
The increase in climbers on Mount Everest has also meant an increase in debris being left behind. Climbers are now asked to bring back at least eight kilograms of their own waste to base camp (Brandlin, 2014). Respecting your environment and leaving no trace in nature is important to mountaineers and explorers. Leave no trace principles are an important part of exploring and participating in outdoor recreation. The leave no trace ethics are built on a set of seven principles.
For this activity the class will focus in on leaving what you find and respect for wildlife. This means, take nothing from the environment and leave nothing behind.
Activity: Students are Everest climbers at base camp. They must tidy up the camp before making their way through the Khumbu icefall. The challenge is that a herd of yaks have made their way on to base camp and they are known for taking garbage to eat. The climbers have to stop the wildlife from eating the garbage and properly dispose of it.
Materials:
Instructions:
Set up:
TA
Latitude:27.85419
Longitude:86.78998
GPS location Date/Time:04/20/2016 09:35:51 NDT
Message:Everest 3.0: This is TA’s location on Everest. Send warm wishes & good thoughts. To the summit & safe return!
Click the link below to see where I am located.
http://fms.ws/WGOvX/27.85419N/86.78998E
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TA
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Quote of the Day:
“May your dreams be larger than mountains and may you have the courage to scale their summits.” – Harley King
Did You Know?
Sharon Wood was the first North American Woman to summit Mount Everest in 1986.
Suggested Activity:
Word Search
Objective: Teach students about common climbing equipment.
Some items that are essential to climb Mount Everest include:
Since the 3G cell service here in Namche is so good, I am taking advantage and sending out a second post so the schools who are following the expedition can get a sense of Namche. The Main Street has many stores serving trekkers selling trekking clothing and supplies as well as souvenirs. The cute puppy is sleeping beside yak bells. All the yaks and dzous wear bells so people can hear them coming and to make them easier to find when on pasture.
This is a street in Namche. There is a prayer pole in the middle and tea houses on each side. Tea houses in Namche tend to be made from stone.
This is the tea house I am staying at. It’s owners used to leave higher on the hill in Namche but their other tea house was damaged by the earthquake and needs repairs. It’s very comfortable here and the staff are very welcoming and kind.
And finally, this is what Namche looks like from above.
Thanks for all your questions…keep them coming!
This was an active acclimatization day meaning we hiked up from Namche to an elevation of about 3884 meters. As you can see from the picture, the hike brought us another amazing view of Everest. We could also see Lhotse and Ama Dablam (the peak I attempted in Nov. 2104). We spent about 2 hours up there to introduce our bodies to tomorrow’s elevation and give it a head start on making the necessary changes.
The changes make it possible to exist on half (or less) oxygen as usual. Early changes include increased heart rate, breathing rate, and blood pressure. Later changes include the production of more hemoglobin and changes in blood PH. All of these assist the body in coping with less oxygen also known as hypoxia (low oxygen). Acclimatization is a gradual process that can’t be rushed. It’s best achieved by ascending slowly, not pushing too hard when climbing (I.e. Trying to climb at a rate where you can maintain nose breathing), and staying well hydrated. If you ascend too quickly, you can get sick.
By going up and then back down again, we stimulate the physiological processes that make the changes. I like to think of it as “making introductions.” I introduce my body to a new elevation, they shake hands, make small talk, and then we leave the party…only to run into each other again the next day.
I woke up to the sounds of horns. There being no cars here, I was at first confused. Then I realized the horns were being blown in a regular pattern. It was the monks at the gompa. I looked out the window and saw the monks, clad in crimson robes heading up to the monastery. As I stepped out of my room, I was greeted with a smokey haze. There is a tradition in Sherpa culture to start the day by burning juniper in a urn as above or in a kind of fireplace seen below. It’s an offering of generosity to all beings and serves to purify a space and/or bring good luck.
The highlight of the day was seeing Everest again and sharing that view with my teammates and Climber Smurf!
Quote of the Day:
“Climb mountains not so the world can see you but so you can see the world” – David Mccullough Jr.
Did You Know?
Mount Everest is over 60 million years old.
Activity Suggestion:
Experience Nepal!
Objective: Students will be able to view life in Nepal.
The video takes the viewer through the streets of Nepal, the countryside, and eventually to the mountain. Take a special note of the prayer flags and the narrow streets. Teachers can prompt a discussion by asking the students to compare the streets of their hometown, to the busy streets of Nepal!
Click on the link below and watch this video with the class:
I realized I didn’t include a significant moment from today in my earlier update and I can’t wait until tomorrow to share it so please forgive the multiple posts.
We saw Everest for the first time on this trip today. The view point stops everyone in their tracks as they stop, stare, and take pictures. This first view is about 1/3 of the way up the Namche hill.
Though I have seen this view about 10 times before, it never ceases to get my heart racing. It’s towering height, white flanks, and steep sides set against the intense blue sky blaze into my memory. I saw it first in 2002 on my first trek in the Khumbu. I remember early stirrings of the dream to climb Everest during that trek especially when we climbed Kala Patar and got a view of almost the entire route.
The dream came fully into being in 2005 after I’d summitted Denali and then ridden a mountain bike from Lhasa to Kathmandu with a stop at Everest Base Camp on the Tibetan/North Side. When I stared at the overwhelming North Face of Everest, I knew I wanted to climb it-though I was totally intimidated by the fundraising (rather than the climbing). That moment of clear seeing of the dream and the path to inspire youth at the same time, set me on a decade long quest to climb Everest and the rest of the Seven Summits.
So today, as I once again, saw Everest, I was inundated with feelings and memories of climbs, summits, and struggles. I didn’t look too long but instead, committed once again to taking this expedition step by step, working hard to stay healthy and motivated, and to give the best of myself to the effort.
I often talk about the need to balance the view with the footsteps. The view being the goal-that thing that is calling to us and the footsteps-the actions that will take us closer to that goal. We need both and we need to go back and forth between them.
If the weather is clear, we’ll see Everest again tomorrow on our acclimatization hike and that will be awesome!
TA
Latitude:27.80412
Longitude:86.70988
GPS location Date/Time:04/18/2016 07:23:21 NDT
Message:Everest 3.0: This is TA’s location on Everest. Send warm wishes & good thoughts. To the summit & safe return!
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This update is sponsored by the letter, N.
As I hiked towards the Namche Hill (the first major hill of the trek), I contemplated the similarities between Newfoundlanders & Labradorians and Nepalis. I see great strength, resilience, and ability to overcome adversity. I see folks who live in harsh, remote locations looking out for each other and for guests. I feel at home in all. As I approached one of the most famous suspension bridges in Nepal at the foot of the Namche Hill, I decide I wanted to fly the Newfoundland and Labrador flag from the bridge celebrating my connection to both Nepal and Newfoundland and Labrador.
If you look closely in the photo above, you will see two suspension bridges. The lower one is the older one and the higher one is the one we took the picture on. Thanks to Ade for doing a great job of capturing the moment.
Thanks as well to Gemma Hickey for sending me on this journey with this particular flag. Gemma described it as her most prized possession. After her epic Hope Walk across the island of Newfoundland, she was welcomed home by a woman who draped Gemma in the flag. I was deeply touched and honoured that Gemma entrusted me with this precious gift and I will honour her, myself, and all survivors of abuse by carrying it as high on Everest as I am able. As the Newfoundland and Labrador flag unfurled on the bridge, in the presence of many prayer flags and khatas, I felt blessed. I thought of all the crucial people on my path of healing and I gave silent thanks to each of them for the role they played in my coming through with strength, resilience, and ability to overcome adversity.
As I ascended the hill, I also thought of all the families of the Sherpas killed in the avalanche in the icefall in 2014. I know this day in particular and likely every day is filled with the pain and grief of losing their loved ones.
Soon after our hike began today, we reached the entry gate of Sagamartha National Park. We checked in and then passed through the gate spinning prayer wheels as we went. We hiked up to the base of the Namche Hill beside the Dudh Khosi (Milk River). The air was warm and we worked up a bit of a sweat. We crossed the bridge and began the slow steady slog up the hill. There were moments where I caught that delicious rhythm of stepping and breathing where you feel at one with the hill. And at other times, I reminded myself that the top of the hill would eventually come. My legs felt a bit tired today but we all came up the hill in good time and style. It took us about 2.5 hours from Monjo to Namche.
Thus far, everyone is feeling OK. We had a great lunch. I chose garlic soup (thought by Sherpa folks to aid in acclimatization-not to mention delicious) and chicken curry with rice. I began my day with a Nepali breakfast of veggie curry (potatoes and green vegetable), rice, fried eggs, and chapatti (flat bread). Thus far, I’m eating well and enjoying every meal. We have a saying that goes, “She or he or they who eat and drink the most, get to the top.”
Here’s the photographic evidence that I gave Dendi back his boots. They are super light and comfy but it was good to be back in my familiar footwear. We’re in Namche for the next two nights. Today folks are headed up into town for some bakery and shopping. Tomorrow we go on an acclimatization hike to Khunde and Kumjung. This is the first time in over a dozen stays in Namche that I am staying near the bottom of this vertical village.
Here is Hugo just entered the lower portion of Namche. You can see the entry gate, the stupa, and our tea house. It is the one just to the right and behind the stupa, just to the left of the white vertical prayer flags. It’s called the Zambala Lodge and they have satellite TV so might be able to watch the start of the Sherpa TV series tonight. Our goal is to get to base camp as relaxedly as we can and the very comfy cozy tea houses we are staying in are assisting us in this mission. We are given a hearty welcome at each tea house reminiscent of the many welcomes I’ve had around Newfoundland and Labrador when I’ve been traveling there. I’ll close this written update for now and call off an audio update in a little bit after I’ve had a little bakery time. Thanks for coming along!
This was the scene I was trying to describe during the last part of my audio update. How did I do?
We landed in Lukla about 8:00 am and stopped in for a cup of coffee while waiting for our bags to come. Because my bag missed the first plane and because I’d tried to stack the odds of us flying by keeping by boots in my trekking bag instead of wearing them, I was boot less! Dendi to the rescue. He wanted me to be able to trek with the group rather than wait for the bag so he loaned me his brand new hiking boots since we have the same size feet. I enjoyed walking along the trail thinking I was walking a mile (or more) in Dendi’s shoes.
The village of Ghat is known for its mani walls. Mani walls are made up stone tablets on which people have carved the mantra, “Om mani padme hum.” They do the carving to earn merit. Some are both carved and painted. Like prayer wheels and prayer poles, you pass to the left off a mani wall (I.e. You could touch it with your right hand.
There were many prayer wheels, both large and small, to spin as we trekked as well. I made a point to spin every one I saw setting the intention for a safe climb as I did.
We had lunch at Phakding at the Star Lodge after about two hours of walking, I had fried potatoes with green veggies and an egg. All fuelled up, we trekked another almost two hours to Monjo. Just as we hit the outskirts of Monjo, the drizzling sky changed to downpour. We took temporary shelter under an eve and at the first let-up we charged to our tea house, The Summit House. Our timing was good in that the skies hosted quite a thunderstorm and downpour. We all enjoyed Late afternoon naps listening to the rain pound the tin roof and now we are looking forward to dinner. Tomorrow we’re up to Namche.
This is the plane I came close to flying in today. It’s a new plane on the block with a new Nepali airline called Goma Air. Unfortunately, the weather never cleared at Lukla, so I didn’t get to learn what kind of plane it is…I’m sure my pilot buddy Tyler Russell can do some plane spotting and let me know. Though hopefully tomorrow, I will get to find out myself. When you lose your flight to weather, you go to the back of the queue for the next day, so here’s hoping…
The domestic airport in Kathmandu is an experience. Chaotic. Crowded. Loud. Entertaining. A great place to people watch…or if you are Hugo, have a nap.
All of our heads drooped at some point in the six hour sojourn while we waited and waited for the visibility to go to 5000 feet enroute to Lukla.
We’d been up early at 4 something and on our way to the airport at 5. The streets were slowly awakening. After the mad rush to get in to the airport and through screening, it became a day epitomized by the Lojong slogan, “Whichever of the two occurs, be patient.” Patient we were…fortunately mountaineers are a patient bunch in that we wait for good weather on many occasions.
An Everest expedition also requires much waiting…waiting for the route to go in, waiting for acclimatization to occur, waiting for yaks to pass on the trail (always stand on the uphill side of the trail if being passed by yaks or dzous), waiting to catch your breath…so today was good, albeit disappointing practice.
I was looking forward to trekking, moving my body, and mountain views instead of watching a day long cricket match between Nepal and Namibia and reading my Twitter feed. Many times during the day, and now as I wonder about what tomorrow’s flight path will be, I turn to another of my favourite Lojong slogans…”Always have the support of a joyful mind.”
Missing my near and dears tonight and wishing all of you the best on the fine Saturday. [everest 3.0]
[school curriculum, climb, Nepal, seven summits]
[everest 3.0]
[climb, Nepal, school curriculum, seven summits]
Our team has all arrived safe and sound in Kathmandu. I am pleased to introduce you from left to right: Hugo (team leader), Ade, TA, Amit, Dendi (team manager) and Bill. It’s funny that, instead of a Flat Stanley this expedition, I’ve taken Climber Smurf with me because when I look at our team picture, next to Ade, I look like a smurf 🙂 .
Keep an eye out to see what adventures Climber Smurf or CS gets into.
Today I visited the Everest Hardware Store and Factory. It was great to see my friend, Norkey Sherpa and to see where my big red fluffy red expedition parka was made.
Hugo handed out our team jackets yesterday and they are like wearing a giant warm bear hug.
Here is a picture of the fine folks who sewed our jackets for us. Today, since they were preparing for the upcoming trekking season, they were working on trekking shirts and pants. I’d hoped to see how they stuff all that down into jackets but I was a few days too late.
The staff has been very busy. These are all the kinds of clothes they make at Everest Hardware.
We’re all getting pretty excited to get underway. Our preparations and training are now done and it’s time to start the trek into base camp. If the weather allows, we will fly into Hilary Tenzing Airport at Lukla tomorrow morning. The funny thing is that our first day’s trek is mostly downhill. But I’ll tell you all about that tomorrow. For now, I’m off to our team send-off dinner.
I’m not sure how cell coverage will go as we trek up the valley. As long as there is coverage, I will be able to share pictures. When coverage is spotty, I will rely on my descriptive audio updates. An interesting fact is that you can use Twitter in Nepal without incurring data charges, so until I reach base camp, if you are a Twitter user, you can be in touch via Twitter @taloeffler. A few schools have used Twitter to show me how they’ve participated in some of the activities.
Happy Friday to all. I’m excited. Somewhat nervous. A bit scared. Eager to get under way…and thrilled that you all are coming along!
Happy Find Your Fit Friday to ALL!
TA is the ambassador for Recreation Newfoundland and Labrador’s Find Your Fit Campaign.
How You Found Your Fit this week?
Find Your Fit! is a provincial physical activity promotions/communications campaign designed to get individuals motivated and moving towards healthy, active living. The Find Your Fit! website is an excellent resource for physical activity throughout the lifespan.
Quote for the Day
“Everyone wants to live on top of the mountain but all the happiness and growth occurs while you’re climbing it” – Andy Rooney
Did You Know?
There is less oxygen as you go up towards the top of Mount Everest. Oxygen levels at the top are 30% less than at the bottom.
Find Your Fit Fact
You don’t have to do high amounts of activity or vigorous-intensity activity to reduce your risk of premature death. You can put yourself at lower risk of dying early by doing at least 150 minutes a week of moderate-intensity aerobic activity.
Activity Suggestion:
Warm-up: Seven Summits
Equipment:
Background Information: Explain to the students that “The Seven Summits” are the seven highest peaks on each of the seven continents. A big dream for many mountain climbers have is to climb all of the seven summits. For this warm-up the students will use the names of the seven summits they learn about this week from the geography lesson.
Instructions: Have the students line up along one end of the playing area, with on students standing in the middle of the playing area to be ‘it’. Each student will choose one of the seven summits, without telling anyone else. The student who is ‘it’ will randomly call out the names of the seven summits from the middle. When the tagger calls the mountain a student has chosen, that student must try to run to the other side without getting tagged. If they are tagged, they will also become the tagger. If a tagger calls out “seven summits” at any point, everyone must run to the other side without getting tagged.
Note: If the names of the seven summits are to challenging to remember you can use the seven continents instead.
Activity: Stay on the Trail
Equipment:
Set up: Lay the mats at opposite ends of the gym, as this will signify base camp (starting point) and the summit of Everest. Each team will also be given one scooter and one rope.
Background Information: When climbing on expeditions like Everest, students should understand how important it is to work cooperatively with their team members and to stay on the designated trail for safety. This activity will demonstrate these aspects, with working as a team and staying on the designated trail.
Instructions: Ideally in groups of four, each team will work together to get from base camp (staring point) to the summit of Everest (other end of the gym).
Two at a time, one student will pull the other on the scooter to the summit of Everest, while staying on the gym lines. Then they will switch role as the come back down the mountain. This will then be repeated for the next two-team members. If the team ‘falls’ of the trail they must start back where the puller began.
Quote of the Day:
“Life is like a mountain, hard to climb, but worth the amazing view from the top” – Unknown
Did You Know?
Mount Everest is made from shale, limestone and marble.
Activity Suggestion:
Where in the World is TA?
Objective: Teach students about the geographical location of all 7 continents and mountain locations where T.A. has been.
Explain to the class that T.A. has a goal to climb each of the tallest mountains on each continent, these are called the Seven Summits. T.A. is currently working on reaching the summit of the last mountain (Mt. Everest) to complete her goal of the Seven Summits.
Instructions:
Questions to Ask:
Information to Share about Seven Summits:
When they were reached by T.A.:
| North America | Denali | June 2005 |
| South America | Aconcagua | December 2006 |
| Europe | Elbrus | July 2009 |
| Africa | Kilimanjaro | June 2008 |
| Antarctica | Vinson | December 2011 |
| Australia | Kosciuszko | October 2009 |
| Asia | Everest | Attempting Now! |
See the links below for ‘Where in the World is TA’ activity sheet and answer key.
Today’s update is sponsored by the letter P. My Sherpa name is Pherba. I was born on a Thursday. Have you discovered what name you might have been called if you were born into Sherpa culture? I heard that the students at Baltimore School in Ferryland, NL have been busy researching their Sherpa names.
Another P word for today is prayer wheels. I spun some today at the stupa.
Prayer wheels are usually made out of copper or other metal but I have seen them made out of wood, cloth, bone or horn as well. There are prayers pressed or painted on the outside of the wheel and there are prayers on the inside as well. Some days, I think of the prayers as mantras, good wishes, or good intentions. As I went around the stupa clockwise, which is the traditional direction, I also spun the prayer wheels.
The belief is that as the prayer wheels spin the prayers/good thoughts get released into the universe to do good. I spun them with my right hand as I went around three times. I will see and spin many prayer wheels on my way into Everest Base Camp. On other treks and climbs I have seen prayer wheels being spun by water, by wind, and by solar power as well.
After visiting the stupa and spinning prayer wheels, I’d worked up an appetite so I went to the Roadhouse Cafe for my favourite pizza in Kathmandu. This was a smoked chicken pizza and I ate nearly the whole thing because I am supposed to be adding a few extra pounds to donate to the mountain (it’s common to lose weight on a high altitude expedition).
After pizza, I had to make my way back to the hotel. Being a pedestrian in Kathmandu is always interesting and exciting. Cars do not stop here for pedestrians but they take great care to weave around them. Cars also use their horns differently. They use short toot toots to warn other drivers, motorcyclists, bicyclists, rickshaw drivers, pedestrians, and the occasional holy cow of their presence. In order to cross the street safely, there is a two way dance between the cars and the walkers. Walkers look for a gap to begin crossing the 6 lanes of traffic (which actually moves quite slowly) and then they keep moving at a steady pace across and the cars weave around the human obstacles. It can be intimidating at first so I often “catch a ride” with a local for the first few times I cross a big street until I get my confidence to do it by myself. I become their shadow and move across exactly like they do. They don’t seem to mind.
Once I got back to the hotel, Hugo delivered my new expedition jacket. It is big and fluffy and warm like a giant bear hug and it says Everest on it! I’ve packed it to go as well as the rest of my base camp bag. We send those all the way to base camp by yak. Our trek bags travel with us day by day…so as the famous song says…All my bags are packed, I’m ready to go…
Two more sleeps in Kathmandu and then (hopefully) off to Lukla via plane on Saturday morning.
[everest 3.0]
[climb, seven summits, school curriculum, Nepal]
I was asking Raj about the Nepali calendar since today is the first day of the new year 2073. If you look on the calendar above, you will see a small red Nepali number; it is the number one.
Those of you familiar with the Buddha eyes on stupas will recognize the number one (or infinity) as Buddha’s “nose.” It’s not really meant to be a nose but many people think of it that way.
Today our expedition leader met with Billi Bierling who is working for the famous Elizabeth Hawley, keeper of the Himalayan Database. She asked Hugo lots of questions about the team and our climb. Billi is a great climber as well-she has submitted three 8000 meter peaks!
Kumar and I shared a meal of spinach and paneer (cheese) momos for lunch to celebrate the new year. The dipping sauce was a tiny bit spicy but very delicious. Kumar told me about what it was like in Kathmandu during the earthquake. It sounded very scary and he did not go inside and buildings for nearly a week.
I showed Kumar how to find the Everest Hardware store so he could show it to the trekking team when they get here in a few weeks. I am friends with Sonam Sherpa, one of the owners but I didn’t get to say hello today since she and her family were out of the city celebrating the new year. After that, I went to the Khathi Shembu Stupa and walked around it three times for the new year. You can see the many strands of prayer flags on the stupa as well as the Buddha eyes on the golden square level.
After my circumambulation, I visited the monastery beside the stupa to listen to the afternoon chants. You can see the name of the monastery in Tibetan, Nepali, and English script.
During the chanting, some monks would ring bells, bang drums, or play horns. It’s an incredible combination of sounds when all of the voices and instruments combine.
Since it was the new year, many people visited the monastery to light butter lamps and say prayers. I asked for safety on the mountain for all and for the strength of courage to persevere when the climb got very tough. I have many mottos or mantras for this climb and this morning, I told Hugo that one of them was “Same, same but different.” I’m trying to achieve the same ends of summit and safe return as my past two attempts…while at the same time, reminding myself to do things differently. Things like accepting help and support gracefully, using compassionate thoughts always, plucking the weeds of doubt as they sprout, going gently, and being present in each step…these are some of the ways I am beginning anew on this expedition and in this new year.
Happy New Year 2073 to all!
Quote of the Day:
“How you climb a mountain is more important than reaching the top” – Yvon Chouinard
Did you Know?
Everest grows by a quarter of an inch every year.
Activity Suggestion:
What’s Your Favourite Outdoor Activity?
Objective: Students will stimulate discussion around being active outdoors.
Explorers love being in the great outdoors. Participating in activities outdoors have many health benefits. This activity will get students thinking about what they love about being outdoors.
Instructions:
Ask your class to draw themselves participating in their favorite outdoor activity and ask them to write a sentence or two on why this is their favorite activity, using the template provided.
Ask students to share what they’ve drawn; this might inspire other students to try new things.
Printable Worksheet:
After 24 hours in the travel bardo, I was spit out in Kathmandu without bags and sat phone. The bags have since arrived but I’m really not sure if the sat phone ever will. Let’s just say I had some interesting times in the Delhi airport. But that is a story for another day.
I was welcomed at the airport by Dendi Sherpa and he placed the traditional garland of marigolds around my neck. It’s one of many rituals of coming and going in Nepal that I am so fond of. Dendi dropped me by the hotel and I napped for a few hours. Refreshed a bit, I wondered over to Thamel to say hello to Raj and Kumar and to buy a toothbrush.
I first met Raj in 2002 and I’ve called him my Nepali brother since. He has helped me organize many treks. I met Kumar in 2010 when he guided some friends to Everest Base Camp to visit me. He will do the same in a few weeks for another group of friends. My eyes were wider today as I tried to imagine how Kathmandu would look on first landing to my friends. This is my ninth trip to Nepal so making the transition into kathmandu’s chaotic streets of honking cars, dodging motorcycles, and slumbering cows happens much easier these days than when I first dropped into the cacophony 14 years ago.
Raj welcomed me with a traditional kata (also spelled khata) that he placed around my neck. We spent the afternoon drinking Nepali tea and sharing stories. Kathmandu, or at least the parts I saw on the drive in today, looked same, same, but different. There were a few piles of rubble where buildings used to be but most looked the same as I remembered them. Some businesses were in new locations but I easily found one of my favourite spits to eat in Thamel, Momo Tarou.
Upon sitting down, the first thing I ordered was a fresh lemon soda. It comes with fresh lemon juice in the glass and soda water. The two mixed together offer a refreshing pause.
The second thing I ordered was a plate of steamed momos. Momos are like Tibetan pyrogies filled with meat or veggies. Momos are one of my favourite meals in Nepal and part of my own welcome to Nepal rituals.
Happy New Year! It’s Nepali New Year today and they are welcoming the year 2073! It’s been a good day for rituals big and small.
Dendi just dropped off my two expedition bags (thank you universe) and he’s holding high hopes for the sat phone in the morning. Hugo, our expedition leader, just just arrived so now things are getting very real.
A big hello to the awesome Taylor-Hoods from this first big day of Everest 3.0. Thanks for sponsoring this “audio post” and I hope you get to hear my voice real soon.
Quote of the Day:
“People do not decide to become extraordinary. They decide to accomplish extraordinary things.” – Edmund Hillary
Did You Know?
Last year an earthquake moved Mount Everest by 3 centimeters.
Activity Suggestion:
Training for Everest
Objective: Students will learn about the importance of physical activity and being physically fit on the mountain.
Mountaineers need to have their bodies in excellent physical shape in order to be able to climb some of the world’s highest mountains. In fact, they train intensely, often two or more times a day, for several months leading up to their climb. This is because it is very hard to get as much oxygen as they need when they are high up in the mountains, so their body needs to be able to do as much as possible with the oxygen it does get.
Equipment:
Instructions: This game is played in a smaller area, usually half of a medium sized gymnasium (the larger the area, the more difficult it is to catch people). Two students start as taggers. The goal is to touch other students with the ball (emphasize that they must touch them with it, not throw it at them). When a student is touched, they take a pinnie and immediately join the taggers. The rule that makes this game so challenging is that taggers cannot run with the ball. Therefore, they must pass back and forth, trying to get into a position to be able to tag someone while the ball is not in their hands. It may take a while to catch the first few people, but as the number of taggers increases it becomes easier. If students step out of bounds they are considered caught. Non-tagging players are not allowed to interfere with the ball in any way. Place an emphasis on making quick passes and on moving immediately following a pass to look for a pass-back as helpful hints to students. Once there are several taggers, you may wish to introduce a second ball.
TA
Latitude:27.71095
Longitude:85.32435
GPS location Date/Time:04/12/2016 03:52:03 NDT
Message:Everest 3.0: This is TA’s location on Everest. Send warm wishes & good thoughts. To the summit & safe return!
Click the link below to see where I am located.
http://fms.ws/V_ysD/27.71095N/85.32435E
If the above link does not work, try this link:
TA
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