Everest 2010: Week Two

March 29 – Good Morning Nepal
Hi this is TA calling in from the Gumpa at Bouksa at 2340 metres, I couldn’t get a signal last night to call in the update so I’m calling in this morning. We jus climbed up form the viliage of Kharikhola, were we spent the night. It took us about 5 ½ hours, and about 38 000 steps to get there. We had a great day, gained about 800 metres in elevation over the course of the day and then lost about 1400 metres. So it was a downer day for elevation but we will gain it all back and then lose much of it again today as we travel the up and down route. But it gives us lots of opportunity to developed great leg strength. Lots of baby animals along the trail yesterday, baby goats, baby chicks running around, and lots of greenery, there is a real sense of Spring having come to this part of the Himalaya. A wonderful day to get out walking and it is defiantly warmer when you get into the 2000 metre elevation range, and a little cooler when we hit the 28’s and 29’s. Looking forward to today, I will catch you from tonight.

March30 – Raindrops and Footsteps
Hi this is TA and Marian calling in from the village of Puyian at 2900 metres above sea level. We didn’t think that we would be here for the night but this wonderful inn keeper called us in out of the rain and sat us beside her fire and we just couldn’t leave after that. We have had a wonderful afternoon, being nice and warm and dry, enjoying her company, learning her Nepalese word for thunder and lightning. We were actually having a thunder and lightning storm this afternoon, but now we are enjoying a view of the mountains as it clears after the storm, with some fresh snow up at about 3600 or 4000 metres or so. Great day we gained about 890 metres, didn’t descend very much today so it was great to have gained it and kept it, about 3 hours and a bit of walking about 20 000 steps worth. We are just really enjoying life on this part of the trial we know that after tomorrow things will get a lot more crowd. So right now we are enjoying the quiet and enjoying Depaun’s (guide) company, had a great time showing him pictures of my family and of climbing on the ipod

March 31 – Lukla
Hi this is TA and Marian calling in from the village of Lukla. We are just sitting here watching the thunderheads gather in the valley below. Looks like we will have another big thunderstorm night, which will hopefully clear the air so that the rest of our expedition and trekking teams can get in from Kathmandu tomorrow. We are sitting across from the departures gates at the Sherpas coffee house inn, hoping that we will have folks to walk uphill with tomorrow.

We journeyed over from Puyian where we spent the night which is actually at 3900 metres, with Pemba Sherpa. We continued to have the most wonderful time with her, sharing pictures, she showed us pictures of her kids, learning about her life in the winter time, talking about snowshoes and actually finding a picture of snowshoes for her to see what we where talking about, so we had an absolutely magical day there.

A fine walk in here this morning dropping about 800 metres to Surkhe, and then climbing the 600 or 700 metres up here to Lukla, only two more big descents to go before we only walk uphill. Got in here about midday, enjoying the sights in Lukla and looking forward to the team being here and heading up to higher ground, and the adventures that will bring.

Lots of kids portering today which had me thinking about Rayne and Zander and wondering about how there lives would be different if they were here in Napal. defiantly a much more physical lifestyle for children here. Also saw women who appear to be grandmothers carrying large loads of greenery for the livestock and my thoughts went to Oma, and knowing the she actually had a very physical life in all its iterations, and I’m thinking about how I’m dedicating my efforts to her.

So sending our regards out to all of you thanks for following along and thanks to Earl for making that possible

We will catch you up along

April 1 – Old Home Day
Hi this is TA and Marian calling in from the village of Monju at 2800 metres. It has been the most exciting day, starting with the team flying into Lukla from Kathmandu. Seeing Jacintia, Natelle, and Nadia step off the plan and waving at them across the fence at Hillary Tenzing airport in Lukla. Also seeing Al Hancock come out of an airplane, he was the first Newfoundlander to summit Mount Everest he is climbing again with IMG. Also Phil Erscheler who I did an Elbrus attempt with in 2006, he is trekking in to celebrate the 25th anniversary of his summit. So it was old home day at Lukla today at our guest house, it was fun to see everyone.

Got everything all organized got some breakfast and headed out, we trekked for about 4 ½ hours today coming from Lukla to Monju, havinf lunch at Phakding. So getting everybody settled in, we are a big group with a bunch of Everest climbers, a bunch of trekkers, and a bunch of island peak climbers. So it is an exciting day to get everyone here and get everyone moving uphill. We are in good shape for our trip up to Namche tomorrow.

Pedometer says 24 162 steps today and 22 000 yesterday. Jacintia and I are both wondering if those numbers are a little low for 4 ½ hours of walking, but none the less I’m hoping you are getting out and doing some walking, gardening, snow shoveling, or whatever activity it is that makes you happy and gets you physically active.

Thinking about all of you, wherever it is you are tuning in.

Talk to you again tomorrow, thanks

April 2 – With Altitude Comes Clarity
Hi this is TA calling in from my favorite perch on top of the Jamling guest house here in Namche Bazaar at 3440 metres. We have had the most wonderful walk up here today, probably my best ever, we just took it super easy, and everybody got here in very very fine form. All the Newfoundland crew is doing fabulous and sending their love to all of you who are following along. We are all housed together tonight all five of us in the Gompa room, which is the prayer room. Its rather like the prayer hall of the monastery next door to the Jamling inn, a very special place to stay, we can tell there is an amazing energy in the room from folks meditating and praying.

So a really marvelous welcoming for me back here to Namche and for my overall sense of the expedition. My Buddhist mentor Susan once said that she wanted me to do a month long meditation retreat before I come back to Everest; she thought that would be very helpful. Of all the training I did, all the things that everyone could come up with, it was the one I wasn’t able to fit in schedule wise. So I have made the commitment to her and to myself, and it was reaffirmed today as I walked up the Namche hill, that I will look at this whole expedition as a meditation retreat. Knowing that in some ways the bulk of the expedition will be learning to work with my mind in the environment of intensity that is and Everest expedition.

We spun many prayer wheels today as we came in to Namche, and as I took each step and spun each prayer wheel my thoughts were of power, strength, and clarity. That clarity was the commitment to look at this expedition as a meditation retreat, and in some ways the real reason I wanted to come back to Everest was to have a better state of mind. I think, I got to a ruff start last time with both illness and different things so I wanted to just come in and have a sense that I’m at least on track so far with a great sense of relaxation. An aboriginal man that I meet several times on Signal Hill, sent me off with the thought of: enjoy your time, relax the mind, feel the power, and work with yourself. So as I’ve come back into the wonderful centre of Sherpa life which is the doorstep of every Everest expedition, that’s what I’m thinking about, working with myself, and relaxing my mind?

Greetings to all, it is all going well. Thanks again for following along

April 3 – Zopkios Keep Right
Hi this is TA calling in from my favorite high perch atop Namche Bazaar looking across at some alpenglow is beginning to form on the snowcapped peaks across the horizon. The sun is getting ready to set on another wonderful day here in Nepal, today was an acclimatization hike day, up to Kunde and Khumjung. Kunde is the location of the local hospital here, it was funded by the Hillary trust and some Canadian NGO’s as was the school in Khumjung. We paid a visit to both and of course had to stop in at the bakery. Ang Nima, who is one of the top staff members here welcomed us into his home and his wife cooked us a wonderful lunch and they presented us with cords blessed in India by some high lamas for protection as well as sending us off with Katas around our necks. Flat Stanley got his own Kata around his neck and also spun his first prayer wheel. Whenever you come up to a monastery there will be a bank of prayer wheels, you keep to the left and spin each wheel with your right hand. So we did a circuit around both the monastery here in Namche, and in Khumjung, and Kunde. So lots of rotating prayers where said by all

Earl reminded me that I haven’t been as good at calling off my steps of late. Today the pedometer read 19776, yesterday 17897, and the day before 24807, for 4.5 hours, 4 hours and 4 hours of walking respectively. So still a little but suspect, I tried putting it on my hip this morning as I walked over to the Saturday market here in Namche. Which is actually called Namche Bazaar, it is the commercial centre for this valley. Traders come from all over to bring their produce and goods here, and people come down from all over, so we wandered down there early this morning before our hike. A just the little hike from the guest house over to there yielded 2000 steps, that was with the pedometer on my hip I usually wear it on my pant leg. Today I tried it on a pocket and almost lost the pedometer when two Zopkios decided to lock horns right in front of us. That was kind of terrifying as some of our members almost got in the fray but fortunately they were able to climb up on a Mani stone and get out of the way, so excitement not on the mountain but just on the trails in Namche. For those of you who don’t know a Zopkios is a yak crossed with a cow. Why would you do such a thing? Well yaks don’t do well below Namche Bazaar but if you cross them with a cow they are able to go down valley further and be a beast of burden. So stay away from Zopkios and always keep to the inside of the trail when passing Zopkios or yaks because even though they look cuddly they are not.

TA signing out from Namche Bazaar, have a great evening, get out there and do those steps

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Everest 2010: Week One

March 25th – Kathmandu How Are You?
Hi this is TA and Marian calling in from the rooftop of the Nirvana Guest Hotel in Kathmandu, we had a long day of flights and now we are getting settled in and testing out the new SAT phone.

So howdy from Nepal, got to go find some more air time, but catch you soon!

Bye

TA

March 26th – Hurry Up and Wait
Hi this is TA calling in from the rooftop of the Nirvana Garden Hotel in Kathmandu. Unfortunately due to flights being canceled over the last few days to Lukla they diverted our airplane from Phaplu to fly to Lukla, which meant we had an interesting, exciting, engaging morning watching people at the domestic airport in Kathmandu, and unfortunately didn’t get to fly.

So we will try again tomorrow, to try to get out to Phaplu to begin walking. The delay means that we have a little more time around Karnel and we can get a little more settled into our Nepal life and listen to the cacophony of car horns, and construction as they are building a new guest house next to the Nirvana. We will make our way around the crazy chaos of motorcycles, cars, tourists and folks on the street.

I took Marian down to Durbar Square, so we are settling nicely into Nepal life, which can sometimes be hurry up and wait, hurry up and wait, but we will see what tomorrow brings. I’m thinking that if we can’t get out to Phaplu tomorrow we will probably just travel with the team, so we may come up with a trekking plan for the Kathmundu valley or whatever else Raj can come up with for us to do.

So alls well here, getting sorted in terms of the time zone and got our gear all sorted away. We came in so organized because we knew we would be heading out so that’s a wonderful thing. Just wanted you all to know that we are settling in, thinking about you and hoping you had a great day.

In my walking today I did 6872 steps around Kathmandu, hope you are stepping up to the summit challenge and logging all that great physical activity.

Thanks

Have a great day

TA

March 27th – The Freshness of It All
Hi this is TA calling in from the village of Junbesi at 2670 metres. We got out of Kathmandu today, after a few more hours of delay we flew to Phaplu or Pa-Plu as I am supposed to say it.

It was a pretty interesting, entertaining, bumpy ride with a big hairpin turn to the dirt landing strip. We met our guide come porter there; it was a relief to have him greet us. We saddled up and hit the trails pretty quickly because we had gotten in a little later then planed, and began our walk up to Junbesi.

Walked about three hours and gained a few hundred metres and saw some of the most wonderful country side. For the first time ever in Nepal we shared the walking trail with no other westerners as we walked. It was pretty quiet on this section of trail; it’s a new section for me so it was lovely to get to see some new sights and to be reminded of the freshness of it all. There were new cavs, new puppies, and new spring wheat all around us on the terraced agricultural land, as we went through a couple of villages and walked along the Junbesi cola, the river there and came up through this wonderful valley.

It was great to get on the trail, we are stretching our legs I got my 15 kgs on my back which is good for work hardening as we make our way. Marian is doing great. We had a wonderful visit to the Junbesi monastery, which was originally built in 1634. We managed to meet the “tea man” as he calls himself, he allowed us into the prayer hall and he introduced us to the Buddhist sanctuary there. I showed him my protection cord from the Karmapa, he took us upstairs and showed us a picture of the Karmapa. So we had a wonderful connection with him and he presented us with Katas of welcome to his monastery.

We had a wonderful day, its great to be walking the movement is helpful. My pedometer said about 15 000 steps today, I’m not sure if that right on or not but I know that my wonderful people at recreation Newfoundland and Labrador will take a peak at the chart they made and see if that makes sense, hope folks got out walking.

I want to say a special hello to the students in madam Edwards class at CC Loughlin school in Cornerbrook Newfoundland. Flat Stanley had a great flight on the Twin Otter, we had him out and he took some pictures. He’s thrilled to be on the trek and we are thinking of you as we walk along.

Another big thank you to RJG Construction who have actually provided me with a new SAT phone for this expedition on which I’m calling in these updates, I really appreciate their sponsorship and support of the expedition and help with communications technology.

Hope your having a great day

Thanks so much. Talk to you soon

TA

March 28th – Life is Good
Hi this is TA calling in from the village of Ringmo at 2730 metres. We have had a great day here in the Solu region of Nepal, we trekked about 17 km’s, gained about 760 metres elevation, but only actually ending up about 50 metres higher then yesterday. It’s kinda been a bit of up and down, gain some elevation, lose some elevation, gain elevation. I was actually thinking of my friends Eric Larsen and Anthony Jiman. I read the other day that on their North Pole quest they cross the 85th parallel 5 times already because of negative drift. So we where thinking of them today as we walked up one ridge, and down another, and up one ridge, and down the next, it’s a great climb high sleep low kind of day.

We are doing great, visited a wonderful monastery just north of Junbesi that houses about 500 monks, and then had lunch in a tea house, and started the trek here over to Ringmo. Along the way Flat Stanley got to cross his first suspension bridge, so that was an exciting time, got some great pictures to send back to his class of his first suspension bridge. We climbed up through some apple orchids, and many rhododendron blossoms, it’s an absolutely lovely time to be here in Napal. I’m standing here watching a vertical prayer flag trail in the wind, the full moon has just come out from behind a cloud, so life is good.

I walked about 35 000 steps or so. I think yesterday I may not have had the pedometer in a good spot, so 5 hours of walking. So we are just checking in, I wanted to say a big thanks to Earl Walker our communications manager who is transcribing and posting these audio blogs so that you all can follow along.

Also, another big thank you to AppleCore Interactive for all of their support.

Thanks so much for following along. Catch you tomorrow

TA

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In Between a Rock and a Gear Place 

Happy Daylight Savings Time,

My apologies to Saskatchewanians and Arizonans for the exclusive greeting but you are probably used to it at this time of year! I’m bathed in the low angled light of dusk and a thick blanket of fatigue. Sitting, finally, after a big day on the hill, a leaded heaviness creeps in on the tiny tickly feet of kittens and spreads a gentle warmth to my cheeks. Supported by our marvelous “Tire Walla”, Marian, Michelle and I completed our second to last tire pull of the training campaign. This “4.5” tire pull followed closely on the heels of Thursday’s four pull so we’re feeling righteously celebratory having heaved ourselves and our tires, four thousand feet of elevation gain in the span of a few days.

Of course, the true culmination of this “rubber meets the road” training program hits its apex this Saturday, March 20 between 9:00 am and 3:00 pm or so. Again, you are invited to drop by Signal Hill for an ascent or two, a honking drive-by, or otherwise supportive gesture-we’d love to have you out sharing the hill with the Everest Base Camp Trekkers and Tire Pullers.

It’s been a weekend of ten thousand decisions or at least it feels like that many. I began the process of synthesizing the items collected in various boxes in the “packing room” formerly known as the “training room” and before that, radically, the “parlour”, into two bins labeled “Can go direct to basecamp” and “Needed for Trek.” As items got put into Ziplocs, stuff sacks, etc. the decisions mounted, “Should I take six extra triple A batteries? How about double A’s? Which belay device will I use? Which carabiners get to make the grade? Three pairs of socks or four?” It’s amazing to see how many decisions remain after I thought I’d made so many previously. I utilize the gear lists of three different outfitters to make sure I don’t overlook anything or take too much. The temptation is always to throw it in when in reality, “Less is more.”

As those of you who’ve followed me around on many an adventure, this is the toughest time for me. My biggest trip anxieties always rise to the surface during this phase of pre-trip preparation. A core thinking pattern likes to rear it’s nasty head saying something like “If you only pick the right gear/food/clothing then everything will be perfect and if you don’t, watch out!” I’ve seen it enough to recognize it and label it and do my best to denature it but I’m sure Marian has seen a new side of me as I ask her to come “listen to me think aloud” as I decide between the four pairs of potential goggles I have for the trip and as I decide none of them are dark enough so I madly surf around looking for other options. Once I’ve made all the decisions and the trip is underway, I relax considerably and know that I can make it all work. Funny how my mind and emotions seem when I expose them to the light of day.

I remember when I was heading off to climb Denali and we were riding the park bus 100 miles into the north side of the park and my anxiety and fear were so strong I was almost choking on them and then as soon as I stepped off the bus and it steamed away, a gracious calm of finally being in the moment descended and stayed put for the entire expedition. I’m hoping for the same for Everest. This time where I am extricating from my regular life while putting life here into hibernation while at the same time, looking forward to a time of great excitement and challenge makes even more challenge than usual to stay in the moment. That’s why hours of staring at asphalt this morning were so right, so meditative and so perfect to be doing. I need the physical outlet to balance out the high vibration of my current bardo between here and there.

There is only one column of doors left to open on the Everest Advent Calendar, seven hockey games (giving up hockey to climb is one of the hardest things I do), five pulls up Signal Hill, and two large duffels to pack…it’s going to be a rich poignant week of more decisions and good-byes. It’s been a quite the ride over the past three years of deciding to try again, training again, fundraising again, and now the time is near…the time to go enjoy the expedition.

To have fun. To make great connections with my teammates. To respect the mountain. To breathe deeply and feed both my lungs and my spirit. To be be buried by doubt and fear and to dig out from under those emotions over and over again. To share the experience with all who are receptive. To climb smart and to make good risk management decisions. To climb higher and come down again, over and over again. To risk. To cry. To push. To laugh. Likely all in the same day. To accept the invitation and to offer myself deeply to what is unfolding. This is what I am aiming for…

Eight days and counting,

TA

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Summit Socks and Send-Offs: Off to Everest 2010 Very Soon-We Hope You will Join Us!

Howdy to All,

March is here and the Everest 2010 Advent Calendar’s doors are half open!  The remainder of the road trip went well with two presentations in Calgary and I’ve been busy since my return trying to take items off of the mountain-sized to do list and sneak a bit of training in as well.

A highlight of the week was receiving a care package from Madame Edwards Grade Three class at CC Loughlin School.  They sent along a sleeping bag and pillow for Flat Stanley as well as a bike for him to train on!  Each child in the class also sent along a greeting card and I loved Noah’s interpretation on my name…he said TA’s Totally Awesome and Trying Again!  Check out the covers of the cards at this URL: (http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=394562&id=509940550&l=12068c83ca)

I knew I wanted to jump in hard to training this week so Natelle and I took to the hill on Thursday with tires in tow.  Neither of us had particularly checked the weather so when we found ourselves up high in the wind in the midst of freezing rain, we both declared, “We’re a bit underdressed for this.”  We kept ourselves warm by dropping off the crest of the hill as soon as we could and set a new record for a single pull of 27:22 and for doing four pulls!  The four pulls up and three pulls down amounted to 10.5 kilometers of pulling and nearly 2000 feet of elevation gain!  By the end, we were giddy with exhaustion and cold but very pleased to have pulled it off (ha, ha).

As it’s taper time, I’m trying to maintain the intensity of training while dropping some of the volume, which is handy because there are a mountain of details to attend to over the next two weeks.  Like securing my summit socks…as I’ve confessed before I am a superstitious creature of habit: I always put on my left hockey skate first.  And I always buy a new pair of socks to wear on summit day.  This pair of socks is left unworn until the chosen day to swaddle my feet in new and fresh loops of merino wool (clean socks are warmer than dirty ones).  It’s a ritual I’ve used on all my climbs and I’m not stopping now!

Summit socks and send-offs…I was chatting with a friend last week about send-off possibilities and realized that I was more interested in a welcome home party than a good-bye one (as Ed Viesturs so aptly put it, “The summit is optional, getting home mandatory).  So be prepared to party hard when we get back from Everest but in the meantime, I would like to invite you to a Signal Hill Send-Off of Sorts.  On March 20, we’ll be doing our last big tire pull and then I’ll be doing an additional five ascents (as per my tradition of doing ten ascents of Signal Hill before each climb).  We’ll start around 9 am or so and be on the hill road for the next 5-6 hours.  We’ll pull/trek up and use cars for the descents.

Come join us for a hike up the hill-the tire ascents will be slower than the trekking ones and I’m sure the ascents will slow gradually over the day (so if you’re worried about being slow-come later).  We’ll be looking for folks who can spare a little time as drivers that day to help out the team with descents.  Come on out for a climb of the hill and then go log your accomplishment on the RNL Small Steps/Big Results Website as part of the Step Up to the Summit Challenge (http://www.recreationnl.com/smallstepsbigresults/).  It’s an informal send-off and we won’t have much ability to carry on conversation, as tire pulling is hard work but do come out, wish us well, honk your horn, walk along side, and get some exercise!

And if you’re not in St. John’s, please find a hill wherever you are and go for a walk up it on March 20 and drop me a line or a picture to celebrate with us!

Speaking of which, Signal Hill is calling me now to get off my butt, into my pack and walk uphill!  Have a good week!

TA

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Road Trip

Happy 2010 Olympics!

Another seven doors are open on the Everest advent calendar and I’ve had a good trip out west.  After months of wrangling with various bureaucracies, it finally worked for me to pay a visit to the University of Northern Colorado (UNC) in Greeley, Colorado.  I met Chris Mullen in Little Rock, Arkansas at the Association of Experiential Education conference two years ago.  He’s Director of Student Engagement at UNC and he seized on an opportunity to bring me out for a speaking event.

In hindsight, I realized this was my first presentation to university students outside of Memorial University and AEE conferences.  I was in a mood to channel my inner stand-up comedian and gave the students an introduction to things Newfoundland and things Canadian.  Since Colorado is a ways south of the border, Tim Horton’s isn’t a daily ritual and so I had to introduce Velma as a cousin of Dunkin’ Donuts.  The room was full of hockey fans and I risked their vengeance to predict that Canada would win gold in both men’s and women’s hockey.  The audience forgave me later when I invited them all to come up and hold my Olympic Torch.  I left Colorado with a wonderful banner decorated with signatures and well wishes from many of the attendees.  I will hang it where I can see it often in the next few weeks.  Thanks Chris for all your hard work!

As part of my stay in Colorado, I had the privilege of meeting Alan Arnette in person. We met for lunch and I appreciated Alan’s sharing of his experience over 7500 metres, his perspectives on my preparations, and his attendance at the evening’s event.  He and I have followed each other’s climbs over the past four years.  Alan, (http://www.alanarnette.com), in honour of his mother, is climbing the Seven Summits to raise one million for Alzheimer’s research.  Alan also does an excellent job in covering Everest climbing seasons.  His website is an excellent source of up-to-date information on all Everest expeditions and of fascinating interviews of Everest climbers.  Alan even has an I-Phone app for tracking expeditions this year–download it today so you don’t miss any news from the mountain!  Thanks Alan for all of your hard work in sharing Everest expeditions with the world.

After Colorado, I flew up to Edmonton to spend some time with my family, make another pilgrimage to Mountain Equipment Co-op, and watch lots of Olympic coverage.  One of the highlights of this visit west was going wall climbing with Rayne and Xander.  I loved belaying Rayne as she climbed to the top of several climbs smiling and waving down to “Auntie” from above.  Rayne is taking a weekly climbing class and she was so proud of her ability to put on a harness, tie a figure eight knot, and introduce Xander to the gym.  Xander was rather taken with the bouldering cave and he might have a future as a luger since he loved sliding down the cave’s padded floor.

After a big afternoon of climbing, Rayne, Xander and I cuddled while cheering on the Canadian women in the big gold medal game.  That night, Mike and Shawn headed off to a movie and I had a recent “Ring of Fire” challenge trying to get the kids to sleep.  Shawn says she’s always willing to contribute to my mental training.  As I’ve watched the Olympics, I’ve taken inspiration from so many athletes–their intense training and focus, their pushing through physical and mental barriers, and their deeply moving stories of tragedy and triumph.  I feel like one of the things I am packing into my big duffel bags is as much inspiration as will fit!

As I am typing this, my mom and I are watching the women’s gold medal curling game.  Both my mom and dad played the game for years and I played in high school as well.  Being back here, I miss my dad even more than usual but I’ve packed up a few of my dad’s tools and things to take home.  On my next visit to Marble Mountain, I’ll be making tracks on a pair of my dad’s skis.  We had lunch with Oma yesterday–she brightened with my visit but she has been so missing my dad.  In reality, all of us are missing our Heinz!

Speaking of inspiration, I’m hoping my expedition will motivate you and others to be more physically active!  In partnership with Recreation Newfoundland and Labrador (RNL), I am pleased to announce “Step Up to the Summit Challenge.”  The challenge begins March 18th and continues through May 31st.  RNL’s Small Steps, Big Results website allows individuals and teams to track a wide variety of physical activity by converting all to a number of steps.  I’ll be reporting in on my number of steps per day in my daily updates and I’m hoping you will climb the mountain along with me.  Sign up your team for the challenge today at http://www.recreationnl.com/smallstepsbigresults.

Have a good week,

TA

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Everest Advent

Howdy,

I can’t believe another week has flown by and I’ve added another 16.6 ascents of Signal Hill into the mix!  The tire pulling crew dragged their way up 3.5 times this week and we were joined by Deb Shortall who impressed us all by pulling on the way up and running her way to the bottom–she also helped with logistics by providing us with a few lifts up in her van as well.

My Everest “Advent” calendar started this week on Feb. 19…instead of a pre-Christmas countdown, the $.42 post Noel NHL themed bargain, is helping me mark and celebrate and motivate during the last 32, no 31, no 30, no 29 days until we leave for Nepal.  I’m thankful to Michelle and Kellie who provided me with a high quality chocolate substitute for the bargain version that was emerging from each hidden door.  Each day, the serotonin released through the ingestion of high quality cocoa solids helps soothe the ragged nerves of a to do list that grows instead of shrinks, the panic that I need to be doing more training not less, and the myriad of other emotions that occur in rapid succession these days.

All kidding aside, I am getting more and more excited to go.  The training deposits are in the bank, the gear is being organized into labeled bins, and it will be March 23rd before I know it.  People are reaching out to help in both big and small ways.

I’d like to introduce two new sponsors who’ve come aboard the Everest 2010 Mountain of Learning team.  The Newfoundland and Labrador Credit Union, (https://www.nlcu.com/Home/).  is a proud Camp Three sponsor and I appreciate their support.   RJG Construction (http://rjgconstruction.com/) is a Camp Four sponsor and they have helped me out tremendously by updating my satellite phone to a much lighter and more advanced version.  Known as the “Earth Movers”, RJG Construction is helping put a solid financial footing under the expedition with that burden (and my phone burden) feeling much lighter these days.

I am continuing to seek sponsorship so please continue to send leads and suggestions my way.  There are also many ways to support my efforts and the expedition.  I still need lots of small items like lithium batteries, hand and foot warmers, and trail snacks.  I always appreciate having small notes of encouragement to open while on the mountain–you can send these along to my home address (7 Wood Street, St. John’s, NL, A1C 3K8).  You can make a donation to the Everest 2010 Mountain of Learning Award at Memorial University:  URL: https://www5.mun.ca/dir/viking.gv020.p001

and be sure type Everest 2010 Mountain of Learning Award in the box.  You can also post notes in inspiration on the various websites on which you follow my adventures.

I’ll post these again closer to the expedition but here are the websites where you can follow me up the mountain.

1)    TA’s Website:  http://www.taloeffler.com (Updates will be posted here daily)

2)    My Everest:  http: http://www.myeverest.com/ta (Updates will be posted here daily and you can sign up for email notification)

3)    TA’s Facebook Group: http://www.facebook.com/home.php – !/group.php?gid=102972039777 (Updates will be posted here daily and members messaged at regular intervals)

4)    TA’s Email Group:  If you get a weekly email from me now, you will continue to get a digest form of updates from the mountain at regular intervals.

I’m headed off on “Road Trip” out west for the week doing a few presentations and visiting my family and trying to train on the road!  Thanks for all the encouragement you’ll send along both before and on the expedition–it helps me keep going taking it step by step both on the way to and up the mountain.

Have a good week,

TA

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Life in the Zone(s)

Happy Valentine’s Day,

I try to pay close attention to my heart.  Both my physical heart and my emotional heart.  On this day, where we celebrate the loves in our lives, I thought I would write about a connection I’ve been making lately from my training to my life.  In almost all of my training, unless I forget to put it on, I wear a heart rate monitor.  At a glance, I can see the rate at which my heart is beating in beats per minute.  I can use this number, along with the physical sensations that go with it, to gauge the intensity of the workout I am doing.

A common system of physical training uses heart rate zones.  There are various formulas (each with their own limitations) you can use to set up your training zones.  Most of these formulas start with your maximum heart rate.  This is the fastest your heart can beat-you’d know it on this particular day because it was the rate your heart was beating when you first realized you were falling in love with your sweetie.  Another way people find it is through VO2 Max testing or various other tests that involve upping your intensity in an activity in increments until your heart (or you) can’t go any faster.  I found mine by wearing my heart rate monitor and noting the highest heart rate I saw recorded…mine is 185.

People used to think that our max heart rate was 220 minus our age and that max heart rate declined with age.  From what I understand now, if we stay in good physical condition, our max heart rate doesn’t have to decline with age.  Another interesting thing is that max heart rate is unique to you and unique to each activity you do.  My max heart rate in hockey is different than in hiking than in swimming and likewise, we shouldn’t make the mistake of comparing our max heart rates–just because mine is higher or lower than yours doesn’t mean anything about our relative fitness.

Another important heart rate number is your resting heart rate.  Ideally this is taken first thing in the morning before you move or get up.  Sometimes you find it by sleeping in your heart rate monitor or by having your basal metabolic rate tested.  My resting heart rate is about 40 these days.  Our resting heart rate is a good indicator of fitness as resting heart rates do decline with increased fitness because the heart becomes more efficient at doing its job.  I monitor my resting heart rate fairly often because a rise in it is an indicator of overreaching or overtraining (which I am trying very hard to avoid this time).

Back to heart rate zones…so the formula I use is called the Karvonen method that uses something called the heart rate reserve.  The heart rate reserve is your maximum heart rate minus your resting heart rate.  So my heart rate reserve is 145 and I can use this number to set my training zones (have I lost you yet?).

So, my maximum heart rate is 185.
My resting heart rate is 40.
My heart rate reserve is 145.

My Zone 1 (long slow activity) would be in between:
Low value: 40 + 60 % * 145 = 127 beats per minute
High value: 40 + 70 % * 145 = 142 bpm

My Zone 2 (easy aerobic) would be in between:
Low value: 40 + 70 % * 145 = 142 bpm
High value: 40 + 80 % * 145 = 156 bpm

My Zone 3 (anaerobic threshold) would be in between:
Low value: 40 + 80% * 145 = 156 bpm
High value: 40 + 90% * 145 = 163 bpm

My Zone 4 (high intensity intervals) would be in between:
Low value: 40 + 90 % * 145 = 163 bpm

High value: 40 + 100 % * 145 = 185 bpm

Each zone invokes a different physiological response in the body and depending on your training goals, your training program would prescribe different amount of time spent in each zone over the course of a training week or training phase.  Some coaches use four zones, some use six and some use as many as eight.  Each person will have a unique set of zone boundaries based on their individual parameters.

As you can probably surmise, the intensity of the work also varies with the zone.  In Zone One, you can workout for hours and this provides a solid endurance base.  In Zone Four, you can only work out for 30 seconds to a minute without needing to rest–it’s really hard work and tough to stay with.  So here’s the kicker (a tribute to the freestyle skiers at the Olympics–the kicker is the jump they use to get airbourne)…

This week I saw that my physical heart has zones but my emotional heart/soul/life has them too!  I saw that I could divide my life into various zones that call upon me to adapt to different stresses/tasks/demands.  With Marian’s surgery and my dad’s death, the last six weeks of 2009 were pretty much in Zone Four and to balance that out I found that I’ve really needed to keep the first six weeks of 2010 in Zones One and Two!

Life in Zones One and Two hums along with quiet efficiency and grace.  Zone Three things begin to get much tougher but are still manageable and Zone Four requires that I go all out, use multiple coping strategies, and reach out for support.  I think sometimes it’s easy to get caught up in keeping life in the upper zones and getting off on the adrenaline that courses through us with that level of stress.  I know it’s been my goal in general, and in specific to Everest to intentionally keep life/training at a manageable level so that I attain of my goal of arriving at the mountain well trained yet well rested.  It’s been a challenge to remind myself of that goal and make decisions accordingly but I’m loving life in the lower zones!

If by chance, I’ve piqued your interest in heart rate zone training/testing and you live in St. John’s, my sponsor Allied Health Services at Memorial University does both VO2 max and basal metabolic rate testing (http://www.mun.ca/hkr/ahs/about/).  Besides thinking about life in the zone, I had a good week of training both using the hypoxic training gear and working out with Phil Alcock at the Core Health Spa (http://www.corehealthspa.ca/).  You can see some photos of some of the unique workouts Phil has me do in this gallery:  (http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=383305&id=509940550&l=e0b5495242).

I also paid a visit to one of my other sponsors, AppleCore Interactive, and shared lunch and a bit of inspiration with their staff.  They got to meet Flat Stanley and see pictures of the fake apple I pinched from the fruit at AppleCore in 2006.  Here’s the AppleCore blog entry about the visit:  (http://applecoreinteractive.blogspot.com/2010/02/ta-loeffler-and-flat-stanley-visit.html).  For my last link of this link filled paragraph, the Tire Pullers and I were caught in action by CBC on Thursday where we were doing our biggest pull to date…a Three Pull!  You can see the video clip here: http://www.cbc.ca/video/#/News/Canada/NL/ID=1410845249

Okay…need to finish up so I can get some supper and catch some Olympics!  Need a dose of Olympic inspiration!  Go Canada Go!

Thanks for zoning in instead of zoning out!

TA

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Shakedown for the Summit

Happy Snow Day,

Sitting here in my chair after an epic climb of Signal Hill to do some gear testing in today’s big blizzard. When I saw the forecast, “Snow at times heavy and blowing snow. Amount 20 cm. Wind west 60 km/h gusting to 80 except gusting to 110 along parts of the coast. High minus 4,” I couldn’t resist going out in it. As St. John’s winter weather is often mild, it’s hard to find extreme conditions to test combinations of clothing and gear in but this week was an exception. You can check out today’s shakedown mission here: http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=379576&id=509940550&l=af2633e943

Some will remember that last February, I ventured north to Iqaluit to attend a polar training program led by Matty McNair. “One of the key factors of any polar expedition,” Matty coached, “is the shakedown.” She hounded us over and over again to experiment, test, recombine, futz, retest, and retool our gear and clothing systems before any big expedition. Matty suggested that all gear be chosen at least one year out so there would be ample time for testing and then adapting systems. I hear her loud and clear and have been evaluating clothing I have used in the past and acquiring some new items in the meantime.

I’m on a two-month countdown rather than Matty’s suggested 12 months but am making good progress towards clothing combinations for various conditions and elevations. Tuesday night delivered fairly cold temperatures (for here) and a good stiff wind resulting in a wind chill of minus 27 Celsius. After playing two games of hockey, it was time for a different set of “padding.” When climbing the upper reaches of Everest, climbers often choose to cloth themselves in a down suit. Rather like a sleeping bag with arms and legs, the down suit provides warm to slow moving climbers (remember high on the mountain it can take four to six breaths to take each step) in the super low temps of high altitude.

Given I am a fairly warm-bodied creature who pumps out heat rather easily, I have often feared immolation if I ever tried to wear my down suit inside. Marian was game for a late night visit to the top of Signal Hill to take the suit through its paces (actually its zippers.) I discovered that certain zipper pulls used for certain elimination tasks were too short and needed lengthening–good to know now rather than being stuck with an open zipper that I can’t reach at 8000 metres. Marian drove me up and was kind enough to record the evening’s antics/costume for posterity. You can check out the her artwork here:

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=378641&id=509940550&l=18eff3d5ae

Wearing the down suit is an intense experience as its fluffy folds cut you off from the environment and create kinda of a sensory deprivation situation. Add to the suit a practice oxygen mask and goggles and the transition to urban astronaut is complete! Wearing goggles makes it a challenge to see your feet; add the practice mask and that challenge doubles. The practice mask had its air intake near the bottom of the mask so every time I tried to look down, my air supply was completely cut off thus being an even more realistic rendition of high altitude. The winds were strong enough to move us around a bit as we climbed up to the summit cairn near the Ladies Lookout. I’m hoping for a few more low temp wind chill moments to go out again with a few more combinations of clothing layers underneath my Pillsbury Dough Boy suit but overall it kept me quite cozy!

This was a fifty percent week. The break in training hours and intensity gave me a chance to catch up on a few tasks and attend a few appointments. The first part of the week seemed to be filled with “summit” energy–things were cruising along and feeling great. The second part of the week was filled with more “valley” energy–things seemed harder and I felt more fatigued. Funny, how I can be more tired during a rest week than during a big training week. Having both energies in close proximity reminded me that it’s good to practice being with/in the valley sometimes. Of course, the summit is much more fun but like the tide, energy ebbs and flows. The key is to flow with it and not attaching too much meaning to either end of the spectrum. I noticed my mind’s temptation to ramp up a bunch of doubt as my energy flagged.

I thought back to my 2007 expedition and wondered what effect arriving at base camp with bronchitis had on my entire experience. I’m guessing it sent me careening towards the valley (both figuratively and eventually literally) and set off some of the same thinking I had this week. I’m grateful for the chance to see it here when my mind is less clouded my altitude. I can practice working with my mind on it now, do some meditation, and remind myself that likely more than half of the challenge of Everest is mental.

A few weeks back at the invite of Michelle (of tire pulling fame), I attend a kickboxing training session. It was so much fun that I’ve been going along with her since. There is something very elemental in learning to punch and kick. As a kid, I studied judo. I loved the discipline and learning to throw people and now it’s being great to learn to throw punches. About a year ago, I first gave voice to an idea: “I want to learn to fight,” I said to myself. I had no idea what that meant or exactly why…other than a long term dream of wanting to bike from Tuktoyaktuk to Tierra del Fuego and wanting to know more about self-defense before taking that on. I consulted a few friends who’d studied some different martial arts and poked around a few gym websites but never took any action on it.

There is always such joy in learning a new skill and this has been no exception. The outward learning of weight transfer, punching combinations, and intense interval activity is fabulous. There has been a more subtle inward learning as well related to connecting to a more primal level of assertiveness/anger than I usually experience. I still don’t really know what it all means but I do know it’s darn fun and I have a sense it’s going to come in handy at about 7500 metres as I “fight” to leave Camp Three for Four.

The blizzard abated Saturday morning just in tire for another epic pull up the hill. I was joined in this somewhat ambitious post blizzard activity by Natelle, Michelle, and Marian. On the first pull, the snow actually gave us a break reducing the friction we were pulling against. On the second pull, drifts started depositing snow across the road giving us barriers to surmount and bigger wind chills to guard against. The last half pull yielded and we could celebrate the longest pull to date 2.5 up and 2.5 back…in all a nearly 3 hour of experience of good, solid, hard work. Thanks to my tire pulling team mates–you make it all much more fun to do! Kent Barrett captured us in action and his commentary still has me laughing…check it out here:
Snow Coolies:    TA Loeffleur and co pass my house last winter, training for Everest. Really.   (5013)

http://www.flickr.com/photos/kentbarrett/4334943080/

Marian also captured some of the action on the hill this morning and you can see her photos here:

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=379939&id=509940550&l=11b9a4078a

I still have Everest 2010 toques for sale. The have an embroidered Everest 2010 Logo, black knit exterior and pile on the inside for a double layer over the ears. The toques are $20 each including tax (shipping is extra). Email me if you are interesting in giving some toques a good home! I’m also still selling my book, “More than A Mountain: One Woman’s Everest.” If you email me and said the codeword “shakedown,” I’ll give you the conference rate deal of $20 including tax (shipping is extra).

Commercial ended…
Hope your week was filled with lots of learning, fun, and you found a few things to shakedown as well.

Catch ya in seven,

TA

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Ladder Practice for the Khumbu

Greetings from Another Week,

Downtown St. John’s is a cacophony of colorful rectangular houses whose front doors open onto the street and whose back doors open into secret gardens that double as cat paradises. Today Marian and I had the joy of moving two sixteen-foot extension ladders into the back “yard.” You’d think this would be an easy task and you’d be wrong. You see the next house is only four feet from by back door. The door is seven feet high. You do the math–it’s impossible to have enough angle to get the ladder out the back door.

Plan Two. Carry the ladder up to the second floor. First, open front door and back ladder back unto street and angle up the stairs. Make sure not to take out any passer-bys with the ladder. Carry ladder upstairs and into bathroom at top of stairs. Back ladder into dining room-the kitchen counter is full of dishes and is backed by a beam we need to maneuver the ladder around. Ease ladder into corner of room and knock plant off windowsill but manage not to put ladder through large window. Scrap past beam and open door and take ladder out to deck. Reflect on the experience and move second ladder through the same path with greater aplomb.

Celebrate. Ladders are longer than the deck so slide one onto neighbours roof in order to separate the extension piece from the ladder piece. Easier said than done. Go downstairs for pliers and return with whole toolbox. Good thing since ladder is playing hard to get and my dad always said use the right tool for the job. Eventually, through much problem solving, vice grips, handsaw, and many sockets, the Siamese twins are separated and lowered off the deck. Another ladder is set at an angle using the old cupboard from the utility room renovation last summer–always knew that would come in handy. Make another ladder course down below using some old cement blocks.

Get excited. Go find mountaineering boots and crampons–it’s time! Balancing on the ladders with sneakers was proving to pretty easy so time for the real stuff! First choice…use middle space between front crampon teeth and back teeth? Use front points on one rung and back teeth on another? Use the space between the mid points to balance? Try all three. For now, the last option seems to be working best. No guide ropes on the home course yet as there will be in the icefall so balance is key. Soon I’ll install some rope to be able to practice fixed rope technique (sliding my ascender along as I climb up the one ladder and across the others). I figure my fitness can get me only so much speed–other speed will be gained from having quick ladder and ascender changes. Check out this week’s picture album at http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=377179&id=509940550&l=de530ad293 (sorry about last week’s broken link).

My dad. Missing him today and most days. Heard the song “Can’t Help Falling in Love” by Elvis Presley this morning. We used it in dad’s memorial video. Every time I hear it I see the pictures of my mom and dad enjoying life together in my mind and my heart goes out to my mom who I know is missing her dear love. I enjoyed working with tools this morning on the ladder project this morning because my dad taught me how to use them. He taught me to take things apart and put them back together and how to make things work. Dad taught me to put on winter tires and change the oil and cast lead bullets for the black powder rifles we would shoot together. He taught me to drive a boat, snowmobile, and standard transmission. His tools lessons often carried life lessons as well and I often hear myself repeating some of his wise adages. I’m grateful that my dad taught me these skills and the confidence to use them. I know his support and teaching have helped me go forth into many arenas considered non-traditional for women including Mount Everest.

Practice. Dad taught me the secret to any skill was practice whether soccer or downhill skiing, ladder climbing or grass cutting, public speaking or baking. Practice does indeed make us closer to perfect and I appreciate my parents for both demonstrating this in their own lives as well as inspiring it in mine. Practice. It’s what I try to do in preparing for all of my climbs–practice the skills and attitudes I will need on the mountain. Mr. Hamilton, my English teacher in high school who taught me to rock climb, said it wasn’t good enough to tie a figure eight knot fast. He said, “You need to be able to tie it fast behind your back in a cold shower.” I aspire to practice so that I can cross the ladders in my back yard backwards, in crampons, with a big pack in the dark! The Khumbu Icefall is a very dangerous place and I aim to be ready to get through it as fast and as safely as I can. Practice will help.

Camp Two. I’m just finishing up the phase of training called Camp Two. I’ve got eleven hypoxic training sessions in the can and eleven to go. As I enter Camp Three phase, the pace of training will increase once again to prepare me for the rigors of the Lhotse Face. The phases are all at once, literal, figurative, and metaphorical (Mr. Hamilton taught me well). We passed the two-month countdown to departure this week. Time is both flying and moving slowly. The to-do list grows exponentially each day and I remind myself to breathe frequently. What needs to get done will get done and everything else will fall away. Time to stop writing this and start laying the foundation for Camp Three.

Have a great week. Thanks again for coming along!

TA

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Flat Stanley is in the House

Good Morning,

 

I’m back in my chair after a whirlwind road trip to the far side of the province.  Marian and I headed out Friday morning to drive to Gambo.  There I did a first–I presented at Smallwood Academy to the entire school of Kindergarten through Grade Twelve.  In the past, I’ve done either K-6 or 7-12 so keeping the entire school of 300 students engaged was a good challenge.  I had no idea in 2006 when I first visited Everest 2010 trekking team member Jacinta Macgrath’s school in Trepassey that I would go onto to visit over 60 schools and speak to over 21,000 kids in Newfoundland and Labrador since.

 

Monday, in Corner Brook, we picked up Flat Stanley 2010.  Those that have been following my adventures since 2006, will remember that I took a Flat Stanley to Mount Everest in 2007 from Woodland Primary School in Grand Falls-Windsor.  Flat Stanley is a children’s book character who was flattened by a bulletin board. He travels in an envelope by mail with miniature milk and cookies packed by his mom.  He visits different parts of the world and reports back on his experiences.  In September, on the day I was leaving for Australia, I presented to the Edge Education Conference here in St. John’s.

 

Patricia Edwards was in the audience that day and afterwards came to ask if I would take her class’ Flat Stanley with me in 2010.  I said I would be thrilled to and given a speaking booking in Springdale, I offered to pick up Flat Stanley myself in Corner Brook.  I spoke to almost the entire school and enjoyed walking the school corridors that had been festooned with prayer flags that Madame Edwards’ class had painted.  I had my picture taken with every member of her class and Roger’s Cable even paid a visit to learn about the upcoming expedition.  Patricia hosted Marian and I in her home and I look forward to the special connection with her class that will be built as Flat Stanley reports back on his experience.  Here’s a link to see pictures of Flat Stanley 2010:  (http://bit.ly/bj2wb)

 

Tuesday, we woke up beside the beautiful Indian River in Springdale at the Riverwood Inn.  (http://www.riverwoodinn.ca/).  The sunrise colors reflected in the river were stunning.  We were treated to a night in such luxury by the Inn’s owner, who was one of many sponsors, who made my visit to Springdale possible.  Margaret Stirling, facilitator of the Bridging the Gap program in Springdale, asked me to come speak to the students in the class.  As the class is small, I suggested partnering with the local high school to be able to reach more people with my visit.  She brought together the Town of Springdale, several programs, several sponsors, and the result was a packed house in the theatre in Indian River High School. 

 

The Springdale partnerships also enabled me to leverage the road trip to include the visits to Gambo and Corner Brook.  A talk to 14 students in one program blossomed into an outreach to over 1400 youth and adults in three locations…wow…the power of working together pays dividends!  The visit also allowed me to train in some deeper snow by spending two days snowshoeing and cross-country skiing in Gros Morne National Park and a half-day downhill skiing in Corner Brook.  Special thanks to Todd Wight of the Ocean View Hotel in Rocky Harbour, (http://www.theoceanview.ca/) for finding us a place to stay in Rocky Harbour. 

 

And now, as my father would say, “If you want to dance, you have to pay the band”… time to get off my chair and stuff five days of intense training into three.  It’s the last week of Camp Two and a 100% week.  Pitter, patter, time to get ‘atter!

 

Have a good week,

 

TA

 

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A New Altitude

Good Evening,

In an unusual moment, I am lost for words. In the scale of human tragedy, this week’s earthquake in Haiti has given me (and most folks I know) an occasion for pause, for prayer, and for sorting out how best to be of service/help. It is hard to wrap our minds around the amount of devastation, pain, and suffering. I take solace in hearing of and reading the stories of courage, compassion, and generosity that get sifted and shared from the rubble of such a time.

I had a good week of training. Things seem to be progressing on schedule and the long hours of planning, logging, and activity seem to be beginning to pay dividends. Bryhanna Greenough’s interview for The Scope came out on Thursday and I was so pleased to be featured on the cover. Kevin Coffey did an excellent job with the photographs–we’d had fun looking for a “mountain” on Signal Hill. You can find the article at http://thescope.ca/features/to-the-summit

I promised some more information about hypoxic training. In light of the absence of words, I’ve put together a photo essay that documents some of the realities of high altitude living and how hypoxic training works. Basically in a nutshell (and highly simplified), as you ascend, the atmospheric pressure declines. The amount of oxygen is always the same (approx. 21%) but the molecules of O2 get further apart as the pressures lessens making it harder to get as much oxygen in each breath. At Mount Everest base camp, it is as if there is half as much oxygen as at sea level while at the summit, it is like there is 32% of the oxygen of sea level.

In a reduced oxygen environment, the body makes a bunch of physiological changes to cope with the reduction in available oxygen. You breathe deeper and faster, your heart pumps faster and harder, and the ph level of your blood changes. If you ascend slowly enough, your body can change enough to keep up, if you do not, you may suffer from Acute Mountain Sickness.

What the hypoxic training does for me is mimics this travel to high altitude. It allows my body to make a few changes in advance and to increase my fitness. The trick, since life at high elevations stresses our bodies, to find the right balance between time at altitude and time at sea level. Some people have trained hypoxically too much before climbs and then bonked on the actual climb.

So, since a picture is worth a thousand words, and since I am a bear of few words this week, I invite you to click on this URL that will take you to the photo essay I put together: http://bit.ly/89RKbT

I spoke at Crescent Collegiate this week to 600 junior high and high school students. It was fantastic to be back in a school and I look forward to a few more school visits this week. It’s a 90% training week that I will push into the first four days to make room for road trip to the Western part of the island for some school talks and outdoor training.

Have a good week,

TA

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Avoiding “Insanity”

Howdy,

It’s near the end of the first week of my Camp Two training phase and it’s been an interesting week of activity and reflection.  This week was a bit of a rest week with a few parts of the training program forgiven to reduce the intensity for the week to a level of 60%.  The intensity grows from week to week and culminates in either a 90% or 100% week for the last one of each phase.  Having just come off the final 100% week of Camp One, I noticed a pull to want to continuously ramp up the intensity, however my past experience of overtraining tells me otherwise and I did my best to modulate those impulses.

I saw someone’s Facebook status update this week listing this familiar quote by Albert Einstein, “Insanity: doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results.”  It got me thinking about how I was training for Everest and evaluating what I was doing the same and what I was doing differently than in 2007.  When talking to former expedition teammates or mountaineering acquaintances, I frequently ask them the same question, “What will you do differently or the same this time round?”  I appreciate hearing reflections on their experiences and feel I can learn from lots by listening.

Hopefully by now, your curiosity is piqued and you are asking yourself, “What is TA doing differently this time?”  Here’s some insights into what I am up to…

Nutrition and fueling–I am being very intention and mindful about both what I am eating and the timing of meals and snacks.  I decided a few months ago that I wanted there to “be less of me to haul up the mountain.”  Whether I am carrying weight in my backpack or on my body, it’s still weight I have to propel up the peak so I set a goal of losing some body fat while preserving and building muscle/strength.

With the support of Allied Health Services at Memorial University of Newfoundland (http://www.mun.ca/hkr/ahs/about/), I’ve met with Holly Grant and she helped me set up specific parameters to use to attain this important goal.  Using her sport nutrition expertise, she’s chosen a calorie load for me to hit each day with specific goals related to the macronutrients of carbohydrates (55%), proteins (20%), and fats (25%).  I measure all my food and enter it into a training log–it takes about an hour each day to do all the logging of both my training and food but I’ve come to see it as valuable information and mini celebration of each meal well chosen.  Holly checks it frequently and gives advice on how to tweak the foods I am using for fuel.  As a result of this mindfulness, I notice I am eating very delicious meals that are made from whole, fresh ingredients, am eating slower, refueling directly after exercise with a mix of carbs and protein, and thinking food is a marvelous thing!

Rest and Relaxation–With hindsight, I realized that I went to Everest in 2007 having done too much and having slept too little…too much training, too much public speaking, too much of everything and not enough rest.  My goal for this attempt is to go to the mountain well rested and very eager to work hard.  In light of this, I have set a sleep goal of eight hours per night–this is a challenge since I naturally seem to need seven hours.  Like parents, with an early morning toddler, who need some extra rest, I have a morning curfew and don’t allow myself to get out of bed until I have reached eight hours of “horizontal” time even if this means lying quietly or meditating.  With Marian’s coaching, I’ve taught myself to go back to sleep in the early morning rather than rev the jets of my mind’s engine with everything I need to get done.  I have simplified my life greatly and reduced my expectations about how much and what I can get done.  I continuously ask the question of “Will this help me climb Everest or can it wait until after the climb?”  I regularly say “No” these days…a relatively new word in my vocabulary.

Enlisting Expertise–Before the launch of Everest 2010 Mountain of Learning last fall, I cobbled together a sponsorship invitation package for it.  Using a past template, I tried to put together something that might work.  Soon after that event, I met with Deborah Bourden at AppleCore Interactive (http://www.applecore.ca/) and she said her team could help me out.  Yesterday, their rendition of my sponsorship invitation got uploaded to my website and printed off…it’s stunning and beautiful and a reminder that there are times, I need to stretch and ask for the assistance of others.  Given my shyness, sometimes it’s easy to do something myself than walk through the fear to ask for help.  Please visit my sponsorship page (http://www.taloeffler.com/sponsorship.asp) and see AppleCore’s excellent work.  If you have any contacts that might be interesting in the benefits of sponsorship, please let me know.  I need your help in making such connections.

A few weeks back, I had the pleasure of doing a training session with Phil Alcock at Core Health Spa (http://www.corehealthspa.ca/).  After that session, I reflected on the strength training that I was doing.  Again, I had turned to past training regimes, read a few books, and put together a workable program that I was doing on my own in the gym.  Given my goal of going to the mountain as physically and mentally strong as I can be, I realized another change was in order.  Even though it meant a financial stretch, I knew I wanted to work with Phil intensively until I head off for the mountain.  He has the expertise to create a varied, demanding, and specific training program for me.  We worked together three times this week and he had me jumping up stairs two and three at a time, climbing down stairs on hands and feet, balancing on an upside down BOSU, and producing copious amounts of sweat.  With Phil pushing me, I work harder than I would on my own.

Similarly, a few months ago, in a wonderful exchange of a delicious dinner for expertise, my colleague Fabien Basset (http://www.mun.ca/hkr/research/) set up my training plan for the last four months before the mountain.  An exercise physiologist with expertise in both hypoxic training and coaching, he set up a periodized program to have me peak at the right time.  In programs I designed myself, I tended to peak early and risk overtraining.  He revamped the hypoxic training program into three sessions a week that utilize hypoxic exercise intervals followed by normoxic recovery intervals.  What does this mean in English?  It means I hike on the treadmill at a 15% grade wearing a 30 pound pack while wearing a mask that channels less than the regular amount of oxygen in room air for set intervals of intense work then remove the mask for recovery.  I’ll do a future update explaining the science and reasoning behind such a strategy but for now, I appreciate having access to Fabien’s vast expertise.

Climbing Team–In choosing my outfitter for this year’s attempt, I elected to go with Peak Freaks (http://peakfreaks.com/).  As is my practice, I like to “date before going steady” so I climbed with them in the fall of 2008 on Pumori.  I found I liked the small team ambiance and cohesion.  I am thrilled that the team’s leadership for next spring’s climb will be Tim Rippel and Hugo Searle (both of whom I climbed with in 2008).  A third guide I haven’t met yet will join them.  Additionally, I had the privilege of climbing with four of my teammates on that same climb.  For most of my climbs, I am meeting my colleagues on day one of the climb.  It will be great to already have a foundation on which to build a deeper camaraderie and trust.

On many of my climbs, I am the solo woman.  As a hockey player, I am superstitious (I always put my left skate on first etc. and I watch for omens or rituals that seem to contribute to winning and propagate them).  There are two other women on Peak Freak’s Everest 2010 team.  When I look back, I can see that whenever there as been another woman with me on a seven summits climb, I have summitted.  No guarantee but a wonderful omen and an opportunity for a different team climate than last time where I was outnumbered 60 to one.

Trekking Team–I am so excited and grateful to have company from home for the trek to base camp in 2010.  A climb of Everest is a long and intense 2.5-month group living experience and so it will be fantastic to have a team of four friends from Newfoundland trekking in with the expedition.  For the trek, I will be joined by Marian Wissink, Nadia Schenk, Natelle Tulk, and Jacinta McGrath.  All have been brave enough to follow me through the Grand Canyon and now are taking the challenge a little further and higher by coming along to Nepal.  We had our first almost-full team training session last night in the dark on the back side of Signal Hill.  We did hiking intervals and placed rocks on the summit cairn to mark the beginning of our shared journey.  Sharing the training and the climb with the WOKies in 2008 on Kilimanjaro was a life-changing event and I’m so glad to have such a fine group of women join me for the trek.

I realize it was a reflective week because I had two interviews about the upcoming climb.  One was with long-time Everest chronicler and climber, Alan Arnette (http://www.alanarnette.com/), and one with Bryhanna Greenough of The Scope (one of our local weeklies)…each interview provided thought-provoking questions and an opportunity to share my preparations for the climb and that got me thinking about what I was doing differently and the pulls to do the same as before (and expect different results a la Einstein).

A question for you…What do you need to do differently?

You can check out Alan’s interview with me on his website (http://bit.ly/4Kz2LM) or his Outside Magazine blog on Monday (http://bit.ly/4GXoWf).

Keep an eye on The Scope (http://thescope.ca/) for Bryhanna’s story.

Thanks for coming along on this Mountain of Learning,

TA

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Happy 2010

Happy New Year!

Wow!  It’s 2010 and today is a palindrome (01022010), as an odometer moment queen* that’s pretty exciting!  (* An odometer moment queen is someone who is fond of numerical fun such as the time 12:34:56 and car odometer moments such as 1234567).  So it’s a fresh year and a fresh decade with a hip numerical address.

The new year is so often filled with thoughts of newness: new dreams, new goals, new behaviours, new semesters…but on the dawn of the new year, I found myself pondering more about the past than the future.  I’ve recently been reading Julie Angus’ “Rowboat in a Hurricane” and during big storms on their crossing of the Atlantic in a very small boat, they would put out a sea anchor.  The sea anchor, shaped much like a drogue parachute, helps keep the boat oriented correctly in storms so it doesn’t breach to the waves.

So that got me to thinking…about sea anchors and regular anchors…and about how one was to keep you firmly from moving and the other was for use during a storm though I guess if you were close enough to shore, you could use a regular anchor to hold the boat during a storm.  So anchors can both hold you steady in one place or perhaps enable you to survive vicious sea states…then I began to wonder about the past…was the past an anchor that holds us in one place or guidance for when storms hit?

For me, I latched onto the sea anchor analogy…that the past provides stability for launching forth into what is coming.  I think there can be temptation to anchor ourselves to what we know we can do or where we are comfortable but I know for me, I’m not satisfied staying in harbour, that I need and want to venture out to get new views and new vistas.  I spent the afternoon at The Rooms, the Provincial Archive, Museum, and Art Gallery.  Many of the exhibits celebrated the expeditions and sea voyages of Captain Bob Bartlett so perhaps that’s why anchors and setting out are occupying my mind.

In many ways the journey from 2007 to 2010 has been the length of a heartbeat and in other ways, the length of several decades.  I can’t believe three years has passed and less than three months remain until I return to Everest.  I find myself looking back and looking forward at the same time.  Reflecting on my past climb and the lessons that I’ve extracted from it while at the same time planning and training for going back while all the while trying to remember to be present now, in this moment, in this time.

Yesterday as I pulled my tire up Signal Hill once again and the exertion forced me to turn my eyes down to the asphalt beneath my feet, I was very present in each step.  I noticed the small pebbles that would roll out from beneath my foot, the instant scraping crescendo of picking up a bottle cap beneath the tire, a cigarette butt, a brief skiff of wind across my cheek and the instant release from the bondage of lactic acid upon a momentary stop.  Given two trips up a week, I imagine that I will become even more familiar with the micro-world that unfolds with each step up the hill.  In those moments of intense physical outlay, I do find small pockets of attention to imagine the Lhotse Face or final traverse and try to deposit some of that physical work in a reserve bank that I can draw on when I actually am on the Lhotse Face or in the Khumbu Icefall.  Kudos go out to Michelle Young for having the courage to pull a tire up with me on Friday and special thanks to Marian for her keeping our tires safe from turning cars!

I had a excellent week of training–it was the last week of Camp One.  Monday marks the beginning of Camp Two with an increased emphasis on strength training and the beginning of hypoxic training on the Go2Altitude system.  I was able to witness and recognize several training gains this week and that’s always a wonderful gift that helps fuel the further hard work that the next month will deliver.

Thanks to all who’ve been holding Oma in their thoughts.  My family is keeping a close eye on her and she’s be able to continue living where she’s to for now.  Thanks for joining me on the dawn of this new year and decade.  I wish you and yours all the best in 2010 and beyond.

Have a good week,

TA

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Happy Boxing Day!

It’s been a quiet relaxing few days around here as I timed my training to take a few rest days around the holidays. I had trained eight days solid since returning from Edmonton so spending Christmas Eve and Dad doing little physical activity was a welcome break. I hope the best of the holiday season found you and your family over the past week.

My training is divided into four phases named Camp One-Four after the camps we will us on Mount Everest next spring. I have one more week in Camp One before moving up to Camp Two. Each phase introduces new goals and new training activities and is periodized to gradually increase the workload. As my training progresses and the time to the climb becomes shorter, training or other injuries become more of a concern because there is less time to get them healed before the climb.

I aim to treat training injuries as they arise and be cognizant of staying healthy in all respects of my life. Some ask if I will give up hockey and the answer is “No.” It’s a critical part of my life for both training and mental health. I will play less aggressively and will do my best to avoid areas on the ice that are more likely to create injuries (i.e. racing for the puck near the end boards).

Along with my own precautions, I have privileged to have the support of a great body care team. Last week I said I would introduce the folks who are being kind enough to support by Everest efforts by donating their services/expertise. Dr. Amy Butt, Director of Allied Health Services at Memorial University of Newfoundland, mobilized the first group of folks. (http://www.mun.ca/hkr/ahs/about/) Allied Health Services offers a variety of testing and professional services to members of the Memorial University community and the general public.

Through Allied Health Services, Todd Row, a certified athletic therapist, is treating me. Athletic therapists have training and expertise in treating and rehabilitating athletes and getting them back into the game/back to training as quickly as possible. Todd keeping an eye on some of my nagging training injuries that seem to keep popping up (oh how I miss my 39 year old body:-). Todd uses a combination of modalities such as ultrasound, electrical stimulation, assisted stretches and exercise prescription to treat various owies. (highly technical term).

Also, through Allied Health Services, Mike Pollard, a certified massage therapist and expert in sports massage, is keeping my legs limber and able to handle the huge training load. Since flexibility has never been one of my strengths, Mike’s work on my legs is a real help in staying the training course.

Finding the right balance between energy expenditure (training) and energy intake (eating) is always a challenge. For me right now it is more tricky than usual because some days I am burning close to 2000 calories in training–that can make for some interesting appetite spikes. Fortunately, I have Holly Grant, sports nutritionist, on my team. Working through Allied Health Services, Holly assists athletes in finding the right balance of macro and micronutrients to maximize performance. I log meals into software that Holly checks in and offers suggestions on how I can make substitutions in what I am eating to hit the balance of nutrients she is suggesting.

Through Allied Health Services, I also have access to VO2 Max testing, Basal Metabolic Rate testing, and underwater weighing–all of which are being used to track the effectiveness of training. As January is often a time for setting up resolutions and making positive lifestyle changes, I highly recommend Allied Health Services if you need some expertise in bringing some of those changes to fruition.

Along with massage and athletic therapy, I also have Janice Drover of Core Insight (http://www.coreinsight.ca/), looking after my body. Janice is a certified Sports Chiropractor who uses Active Release Technique in treating my injuries/sore spots. Janice spent a year treating Olympic athletes in Calgary and will be heading out to Vancouver to treat Paralympians during their games in March so I know I am in good hands. Within the Core Insight office, there are several other practitioners so they are also a good resource for New Year’s Resolutions.

For me, mountaineering is a team activity. I am grateful to my pre-climb “Body Team” and appreciate their generosity, support, and care. On the mountain, there is the base camp medical clinic to draw upon as well as having some doctors and a dentist on our climbing team (I’m hoping not to use their services very much or at all this time!!!).

Time to go pull a tire up Signal Hill!

Take good care,

TA

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Pumping Up the Volume

Happy Solstice to All,

 

After an intense month, this week was indeed much lighter and I look forward to the return of more illumination day by day over the next months.  I always enjoy celebrating the two solstices but somehow always wish that the Summer Solstice was in August instead of June. 🙂

 

Air Canada got us home on Monday and even fed us along the way!  I’m grateful to our neighbours, Brian and Mona for keeping an eye out on our place and shoveling out the car and sidewalk after a big storm so we didn’t have to come back to a daunting pile of the white stuff.  Marian’s daughter, Maaike, kept the plants alive and I appreciated the many sympathy cards waiting in the mailbox.  It was good to get home and be surrounded by friends.

 

Much of my week was spent getting back into the swing of training.  As I look back over the past six months, I can see that many factors have conspired to keep me from training too hard or too long.  It’s time now, however, to pump up the training volume and become a “lean, mean climbing machine.”  I’ve been working with several folks to both create and support my training.  In designing my program, I’ve been keeping in mind the constellation of strengths and skills I will need.

 

Over the next twelve weeks, I’ll be working hard to further develop, sharpen, and strengthen my aerobic endurance, anaerobic endurance, upper, lower, and core body strength, respiratory endurance, flexibility, hiking with a pack, and mountain skills.  It’s a tall order but Everest is an even taller one!  Having been on the mountain, I have a better sense of the demands and challenges of both the terrain and the altitude.

 

My aerobic endurance will come through step aerobics classes with a pack, some incline treadmill hiking with a pack, and outdoor hiking with a pack.  My pack will become my almost constant companion as I’ll always be carrying one on the mountain-it is also a way to increase my workload without running (each week the amount of weight in my pack will increase by a small amount–right now I am carrying 25 pounds).  Challenges to my anaerobic endurance come through ice hockey and incline treadmill intervals developed by Dr. Fabien Basset at Memorial University of Newfoundland. 

 

Body strength will be build through a combination of weight training and functional fitness training.  Respiratory endurance will come through training hypoxically using the Go2Altitude system as well as by using the Spirotiger to strengthen my diaphragm.  Finally, I’ll continue to coax flexibility out of my tight tissues through some yoga (Have I mentioned that when they were giving out hamstrings I was at the back of the line and got a very short set).   🙂 

 

I also realize that having honed mountain skills makes me faster and therefore safer on the mountain so I’ll also dedicate some training time to knot tying, fixed rope ascension, ladder practice, rappelling, and tire pulling.  I did my first tire pull halfway up Signal Hill this week–it such a good workout and reminds me constantly of the absolute humbling that high altitude hands out.  When pulling the tire, I am moving very slowly, almost breathless, and on the verge of vomiting–just like climbing the Khumbu icefall.

 

This week I also had the pleasure of catching up with Phil Alcock at the Core Health Spa (http://www.corehealthspa.ca.)  We worked out together yesterday and I was reminded of the intense functional fitness workout that Phil can dole out.  If you’re in St. John’s and need someone to pusher you harder, he’s your man!

 

All this hard work will tax my body to the max so I have a team of folks who will help me both avoid and treat any training injuries that may occur.  I’ll introduce that team in next week’s update.  Thanks again to all for your support and care this past month (and beyond)–it’s meant so much to me.  I would ask that this week you keep my Oma in your thoughts and prayers as she had a small stroke and we’re hoping she’ll continue to be able to live independently.

 

Enjoy this holiday season in whatever way you celebrate it.

 

TA

 

 

 

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Joys and Sorrows

Good Icy Cold Morning to You,

The combination of minus 45 degrees C and ice fog this morning at the Edmonton International Airport means we’re spending an additional day here.  Our flight was cancelled and given big travel volumes, we couldn’t be rebooked until tomorrow.  You should have seen the look on Mom’s face when we rang the doorbell and handed her the morning paper after she’d dropped us off at the airport at 5:00 a.m.  “Surprise, we’re back,” we exclaimed.  I was looking forward to being home and getting back into a training routine but as Oma so frequently says, “What comes, comes.”

Last Sunday I had the great pleasure of joining Xander on the ice for his hockey practice.  I loved being out there with him and perhaps today’s delay will allow me another visit to the arena when his plays again today.  On Friday, I visited Rayne’s school again.  This time, not to speak about climbing but instead, about the carrying the Olympic Torch.  I spoke to the elementary school in two groups–at first I wasn’t sure I could muster the energy but as soon as I saw the children’s faces light up at seeing the Torch, I knew I could do it.  I even had the kids in stitches at one point when I climbed up on a table to demonstrate my luge technique (I had had a great brainstorm in 1986 that I would make the Olympic Luge team in time for the Calgary winter games–unfortunately, early in my sledding career, I ran my luge off the track and busted up my knee pretty darn good when I hit a tree and that was the end of that!)

In the homily of my Dad’s funeral mass, Father Reddy counseled us that this would be a time of great joy and great sorrow and that has been true to my experience of the past week.  After Dad’s passing, we continued to tell fun and memorable stories of Dad’s life throughout the week.  I’m really grateful to the group of my brother’s friends who gathered from around Western Canada to support him and who pulled off a spontaneous celebration of Dad’s life after the prayer service on Wednesday.  It was marvelous to share in such deep laughter and appreciation of my Dad after the intense grief of the prayer service.

Special thanks to Todd and Shelley for the impromptu feast and for Sean’s delightful rendition of learning to waterski under my Dad’s watchful eye.  Thanks as well to Dave Fritz for feeding us all twice during the week, Doris and her Mom for the German feast that evoked so many memories, Shawn’s Mom and Dad for wonderful baked goods and watching the kids, and “Uncle Bart” for his kindness and care to all of us.

Father Reddy had asked for a copy of my eulogy so he could know a bit more about my Dad since he had just recently moved to their parish.  I so appreciated how Father Reddy wove together the readings, his homily, and the essence of Dad’s spirit into a beautiful liturgy to send him off to whatever comes next.  The highlight of the mass for me is when, in honour of Dad’s great sense of humour, Father Reddy told a joke.  It may have been the first time I heard a priest tell a joke in church and it was so fitting of my Dad.  Special thanks to Monica and Heidi for reading at both services and to Todd, Mike, Derwyn, Cam, Gerry, and Brian for being pallbearers.  Your participation in honouring Dad was much appreciated.

One of the things that speaking professionally has taught me, is to allow a presentation to ebb and flow like the tide.  I know when I am speaking that some of the topics are highly emotionally charged and I need to allow pause or humour to allow myself time to compose myself to continue.  When I first said I would do Dad’s eulogy, I wondered if first I would find the words and second, once found, if I would be able to speak them.

Over the course of three early mornings, the words did come.  As you will see below in my Dad’s eulogy, he always believed in me and I wrote a reminder of that right into it so that if I was struggling to speak, I would remember that my Dad’s many reminders that I could do it.  And I did do it, twice–once during the prayer service and once at the funeral.  My voice got stronger and gained power as I spoke reaching a crescendo in the last paragraph until the last lines.  Saying the good-bye, the parting, the letting the reality of the loss sink in by speaking those words aloud…brought a tsunami of grief to the surface and almost overwhelmed my ability to enunciate the sentiment but I held on for dear life, for my dear Dad, and got through the words with my voice cracking, tears streaming down my face, and my heart open.

Good Morning

On behalf of mother Denise, my Oma, Frida, my brother, Mike and myself, I would like to thank you deeply for your being here with us today to both share our grief at the loss of Heinz and to celebrate his life and the gifts he gave us all.

One of the greatest gifts that my father gave me, and to so many others, was his belief in me.  Every spring at his beloved lake and cabin, Dad would orchestrate the putting in of the pier and boat hoist.  Most often, all of the male neighbours would gather to help each other to move these very heavy objects from the land into the water.  When I was about ten or eleven, I was helping Dad get the pier project started.  He and I were lifting the pier sections from their storage location to the lakeshore.  As the neighbours began to arrive, they each in turn, tried to come over and take the burden from me.  Each time Dad said, “Leave it to her, she can do it.”  So since then, at times in my life when I may have doubted whether or not I could do something, like right now perhaps, I hear my Dad’s voice, “She can do it.”

I have heard it said that the mediocre teacher tells, the good teacher explains, the superior teacher demonstrates and the great teacher inspires.  Without every setting foot at the front of a classroom, my father was a great teacher.  He taught so many people, so many things: from how to drive a stick shift, to casting lead bullets, to getting up on water skis, to how to fix most anything.  His “students” ranged from the “boys” at the shop to our childhood friends; from the neighbours at the lake to anyone he shared a chairlift with.  His generous spirit spilled forth to both help and teach at the slightest perception of need.

After surviving World War II in the Sudenland region of Czechoslovakia, Heinz and his parents, Frida and Alois, immigrated to Canada and settled in Good Soil, Saskatchewan.  Dad often told stories from his life on the farm; of the magpie he befriended that would steal the tractor keys and hide them, of the horse he loved and tended to, and of course, his long walk to school.  Unlike many Canadian kids who heard similar tales, my dad and his cousins Monica and Heidi really did walk seven miles through snowstorms to their school.

My Dad and his parents moved to Edmonton in time for Dad to attend high school at St. Mary’s.  Here, his stories continued.  We heard of sporting feats, fast cars, and pranks played on teachers and friends alike.  Dad met Mom as a substitute blind date set up by her older brother, Gerry.  After a delightful courtship, they were married in 1964.  Mom said the other day that perhaps Dad was always early for everything, because she was an hour late for the wedding.

Soon after I was born, Mom and Dad moved to Ottewell.  In this neighbourhood of young families, they met some of their lifelong friends.  Out of this connection, Dad and Manfred Springer began to go hunting together.  Over the years, we watched them pack up their vans, trailers, campers, or RV’s–whatever the hunting accommodation de jour was–with their guns, supplies, and scrumptious hunting fare known as “Fantasy Casserole” that often came from Dad’s skillful mixing of several cans of food.  A week or so later, they would emerge from the bush surrounding Whitecourt with many stories, a few “chickens” as Dad would call grouse, but not very often with big game.  After years of watching this phenomena, Mike and Shawn began to call these so called hunting trips, “Camping with Guns.”  When Shawn killed her first chicken, Dad stood by and coached her through the whole process of cleaning it, despite many of the men wanting to jump in and take it from her.

My Dad loved nothing better than to be outdoors and especially to spend time around a bonfire.  Both while hunting and at the lake, most evenings were spent nursing a drink, telling tall tales, and a joke or two with whoever was gathered around the warmth of the community fire.  Come to think about it, make that ten or twenty jokes.  Dad loved to make people laugh and kept a huge repository of jokes in his steel-trap mind–he never forgot a thing.

My Mom called Dad, her “Walking Encyclopedia.” We all quickly learned never to get in an argument with Heinz–he always won–especially if it had to do with what happened when.  I’m not sure when we all discovered the source of his amazing memory.  He wrote daily in a notebook, keeping track of the weather and significant events of the day.  Dad was an avid, voracious reader with an insatiable curiosity for how things worked.  He was a gifted engineer who could repair anything given a supply of duct tape, tie-wraps, Velcro, and GE Sealant.

My Dad had a special place in his heart for animals.  He hated to see them suffer and always helped care for all the strays my brother and I brought home.  He had a special bond with our cat, Pudd, and an even deeper connection with Bear, his beloved Akita.  Despite all of the pain he suffered from the cancer, I suspect the worse day of my dad’s life was when he lost Bear.  I imagine Bear was waiting to greet Dad with his two huge paws on Dad’s chest.

Life dealt Dad several blows in short order.  He lost Bear, he and mom were both diagnosed with cancer, and his father passed away all within a couple of years.  Many would have folded and left their cards on the table.  Not my father.  He faced the challenges and suffering of the past twelve years with grace, courage, and humour.  Dad demonstrated a seasoned ability to live with uncertainty and to go forward each day, not knowing what it would bring.  He took early retirement, continued to pursue the things he loved to do, researched options, and put up with the many side effects of his cancer treatment.  He lived life as fully as he could and inspired us in how he coped with the tremendous pain of his illness.  Dad also broke the silence around prostate cancer by encouraging every man he knew to get tested.  He saved many lives by being brave enough to talk about his cancer.

Along with hunting, Dad loved to ski.  Starting on the small hills surrounding the farm in Saskatchewan and progressing to the huge drops of Sunshine Village in Banff, Dad’s passion was for the slopes.  He shared his passion by teaching Mom, Mike, myself, and many others to ski.  He always counted the days to his annual ski week with Mom, Manfred and Agnes.  The day that Dad died, the first winter storm of 2009 raged outside.  When Mike and I met at the hospital that day, we looked out at the falling snow and thought Dad picked the perfect day to go.  We took comfort picturing him carving turns in endless fresh powder under crystal blue skies and sunshine knowing his favourite meal would be waiting in heaven’s cafeteria.

I believe that the true measure of our worth is not where we come to be at journey’s end, but in the lives we touch along the way.  I know both personally and by looking out at all of you gathered here, that we have all been deeply touched by Heinz as a husband, son, father, opa, friend, and teacher.  Heinz’s courage in living the past decade with a devastating disease, his generosity and acts of kindness, his contagious laugh and sense of humour, and most of all, his love for his family, will never be forgotten.  Dad, I am so glad you are now free of pain–rest in peace–we all miss you dearly.

Thanks to all of you in my cyber community of support for sending caring thoughts and prayers.  We’ve felt your support and leaned on it many times.  I look forward to seeing friends in Newfoundland soon (whenever Air Canada can get us there) and I am committed to taking my training for Everest to a new height of dedication to both honour and be close in spirit to my dad.  See you in a gym nearby soon!

With gratitude,

TA

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Off to Powder Ski Slopes

Good Morning,

 

I’m up early to write from a different chair.  It’s been a big week on the metaphorical mountain and I know forming and sharing the words will help me reflect and process the deeper meaning of it all.

 

People had said I would know when it was time to come.  I was checking in several times a day with Edmonton, watching airfares, trying to train, and seeing how Marian was doing.  Dad moved onto the palliative care unit at the Grey Nuns Hospital on Sunday.  Mom used to be the night supervisor there for 20 years and though it meant a longer drive to get there, she knew Dad would receive the best care. 

 

And then as people said I would, I knew it was time.  We got seats on a most windy Wednesday morning and flew out.  Shawn picked us up at the airport and we went right to the hospital.  When we walked into his room, Dad woke and was able to greet us.  He was finally comfortable when lying still and would rouse when called to but was sleeping the rest of the time.

 

Soon after we arrived, a succession of visitors arrived and we spent much of the afternoon telling stories of Dad’s life and the ways he impacted ours.  There was many stories of hunting, skiing, and times at the cabin.  One of Dad’s favourite things was napping on the couch at the lake and I imagined him laying on “his” couch napping as we spun yarn after yarn.  Later in the afternoon, Rayne came to visit and helped the nurse give her grandfather his medication and got a chance to ask lots of questions about Opa’s care.

 

Wednesday was hard but I took solace in being surrounded by caring friends and family and in the fact that laughter was being doled out in about the same ratio as tears.  We were celebrating my Dad, and since he loved to laugh, naturally many of the stories made us chuckle.  We met with Dad’s doctors and though they couldn’t give us a timeline, they hinted at a few weeks.  Having started our day in Newfoundland at 3:30 a.m., we fell into bed exhausted that evening.

 

The next morning we headed back to the hospital.  As soon as I walked into the room, I knew things had changed dramatically.  In taking one look at my Dad, I knew it wouldn’t be weeks, I knew it would be days, if that.  Dread was the first emotion to arise followed quickly by huge waves of grief.  Seeing the nurse do care and the intense pain that any movement caused Dad, a tiny sense of relief that his suffering might soon be over began to enter my body. 

 

I had brought my Olympic Torch to show my Dad.  In the elevator, some one had asked me if the box contained chocolates.  I said, “No, it has an Olympic Torch.”  I took it out of the box and once again witnessed its magic as people began to hold it and pass it around.  I showed it to Dad as soon as I arrived and there was a brief flicker of recognition in his eyes.  I placed it on the windowsill and we enjoyed watching nurses, doctors, and visitors as they picked it up and hold the torch.  As I carried it on Mom and Dad’s anniversary, it felt like a tribute to have the torch there. 

 

Dad’s main doctor, Dr. Amigo, paid a special visit so I could show him the torch.  He carried it out onto the unit and joked that his ego was getting bigger by the second.  He was originally from Argentina so we shared our love of Dulce de Leche and I showed him pictures of climbing Aconcagua on my laptop.  I appreciated Dr. Amigo taking time to be with us with such kindness and grace–not only was he looking after Dad, he was looking after us.  It seemed he had “right livelihood” being perfectly suited in skill and temperament to the work he does and I loved his name.  Amigo means friend in Spanish and he was indeed, a doctor friend.

 

As the day progressed, Dad could no longer respond or wake up.  He slipped deeper and deeper into unconsciousness.  In July, I carried a string of prayer flags to the summit of Mount Elbrus for both my Dad and Moh Hardin, my Buddhist teacher.  In celebration of this, I hung a string of prayer flags over Dad’s bed and took comfort in seeing their familiar colours and having them remind me of Buddhist teachings.  They also provided another point of conversation and it turned out that one of Dad’s nurses had worked in Tibet.  Small world.

 

The hospital gift shop had “puffed wheat squares.”  These chocolate confections are one of my favourite treats as well as Dad’s.  I bought some and brought them up to the room.  I wished that just one more time Dad and I could compete for the last bite.  It wasn’t uncommon for Mom to have to make one tray for my Dad and one for me.  I was comfortable talking to my Dad even though he couldn’t respond.  I offered him some puff wheat squares and told him that I would keep eating them and would miss sharing them with him.

 

We spent the day in prayer punctuated by stories.  Again, when visitors would come, we shared memories of Dad and used laughter to temper our grief.  It was harder to leave the hospital that night and I contemplated staying over.  We asked the nurses to call us if anything changed and we’d be back as quick as we could. 

 

The call came the next morning.  We all headed quickly to the hospital.  It was snowing heavily.  Mom, Marian and I arrived first.  Seeing Dad, we knew it wouldn’t be long.  When Mike and Shawn arrived, both Mike and I had had the same thought.  Dad loved to ski and this was a perfect day to go.  Each time I looked out the window, I imagined Dad standing at the top of his favourite run in Banff just waiting for enough perfect powder to fall to begin his run.

 

We all sat round him.  He was no longer in any pain and for the first time in days, we could touch him (previously the lightest touch was agony for him).  Again, we told stories and memories and laughter was once again mixed with the tears.  I had promised Rayne I would take a picture of something on the unit but had forgotten the camera in the car.  I didn’t want to leave but knew I didn’t want to miss getting the picture for Rayne so I let Dad know I was stepping out and quickly went to the car.  I stopped in the gift shop for more puffed wheat squares.

 

I got back to Dad’s room and took the picture Rayne wanted.  A sense came over me and I turned, put the camera down, and saw down beside my Dad.  I offered the puffed wheat squares round and most indulged–Dad loved them.  We surrounded Dad with love and care and he passed gently at 12:34.  Those that know me know that my watch beeps everyday at 12:34.  It is my favourite time of day…1, 2, 3, 4!  I just get a kick out of it and don’t want to miss it so I set an alarm.  It was just like my Dad to pick such a moment to go.  I know that each day when the alarm beeps, not only will I chuckle with my favourite time of day, I’ll think of my Dad and everything he means to me.

 

Once the first round of tears had fallen, we took out a small bottle of whiskey that Dad hadn’t gotten to drink and passed it around.  We told Dad that we must really love him to drink the rye straight up without mix.  Dr. Amigo came in and offered words of comfort that though Dad went quicker than anyone expected, he was now finally free of pain.  With his words, came a huge sense of relief for me that has carried me through the first few days since Dad’s death.  Near the end, he hurt so much that I could hardly stand it and I am so grateful that he suffering is over.  I knew I would miss him so much but I wanted him pain free even more.

 

We each took time to say our good-byes.  I took the prayer flags down knowing that they would come with me to Everest and hang in my tent as both a reminder of my Dad and a reminder of his strength that I can draw upon whenever needed.  We packed the rest of Dad’s belongings and I drove us home through the storm.  The rest of that day was a fog of funeral arrangements, logistics, and alternating relief and disbelief. 

 

We all dreaded telling Oma, my Dad’s mother for we know she’d loved him so deeply for all of his 67 years.  She’d had a dream earlier in the day that Dad had died and sobbed uncontrollably for the first while.  We then got out her brandy and toasted Dad once again.  With glasses in hand, the stories began again and Oma had us nearly peeing our pants with her antics.  I appreciated the laughter as it helps balance out the deep sadness.

 

Since most of you live away from Edmonton and won’t be able to see Dad’s Obituary, I’ve pasted it here.

 

Heinz Loeffler, aged 67 years, passed away peacefully surrounded by his family on December 4, 2009.  He is survived by his loving wife, Denise, his mother, Frida and two children, TA (Marian), and Mike (Shawn).  Heinz also leaves to mourn two grandchildren, Rayne and Xander and numerous other relatives and close friends.  He was predeceased by his father, Alois and Uncle Joe and Auntie Hilde.  A prayer service will be held on Wednesday, December 9, 2009 at 7:00 p.m. at the Chapel of Howard & McBride Westlawn, 16310 Stony Plain Road, Edmonton with a Funeral Mass on Thursday, December 10 at 11:00 a.m. at Good Shepherd Catholic Church, 18407-60 Ave, Edmonton.  In lieu of flowers, donations may be made to Prostate Cancer Canada, (145 Front Street East, Suite 306 Toronto Ontario M5A 1E3 http://www.prostatecancer.ca) or the Grey Nuns Community Hospital, Palliative Care Unit 43.  Heinz’s family thanks you for your care and support during this difficult time.

 

Thank you for all of your kind words, thoughts, and prayers as they bring great comfort to my family and me.  Take good care,

 

TA

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A New Elevation

Good Morning,

 

When climbing a high altitude peak, we don’t just climb it once.  We climb it at least twice, perhaps three of four times.  In order to acclimatize properly, mountaineers use a strategy of “Climb High, Sleep Low.”  To climb a new altitude, we first do a day trip to that elevation–we might carry of load of supplies–or we may just climb up to introduce our bodies to the new height.  This introduction sets off complex physiologic processes that eventually change the composition of our blood to enable us to survive in an ever-decreasing oxygen environment.  After one or two excursions to a new elevation, we break down camp and move to the new one.

 

I always seem to dread the second climb–perhaps because I have seen and climbed the route and know what difficulties lie ahead.  I know how hard I will have to breathe and how challenging some sections will be to surmount.  And then I am always surprised that the second time through is always easier because I know what’s coming, I have markers to use along the climb to measure progress, and I am a wee bit more acclimatized than the first go.

 

Arriving at the new camp, there is always much work to do:  tent platforms and kitchens must be dug, tents erected, and snow melted into drinking water.  Doing these tasks at a new elevation is always humbling.  Move too fast and you’re instantly breathless and panting.  Imagine being a bit drunk or tipsy while already feeling the next day’s hangover, feeling deeply chilled overall with really cold feet and hands, being able to move two shovelfuls of snow and then having to lean over your shovel out of breath, then having to swing your legs to make the blood go back to your toes through centrifugal force, then having to catch your breath again, then shoveling again, then feeling a bit dizzy and unsteady, then swinging your arms to bring blood to your hands, shoveling a bit more.  Repeat the above for four hours while really wanting to curl up into a ball in the snow.

 

Earlier this week, when it became clear that my Dad’s battle with prostate cancer would likely end very soon; I was thrust instantly into a high elevation environment that I wasn’t acclimatized to.  Instantaneously, my heart could not beat hard enough or deep enough to move the mountain of emotion through, my lungs couldn’t take in enough to air to stave off the suffocating grief, and my head rushed with both dizziness and confusion.  Though I have climbed through grief along with my Dad over the past eleven years the best I could, this is a new and gripping elevation that has stopped me cold.

 

One of the things that you must quickly learn at high altitude is to move slowly.  When sitting down, it’s easy to forget how stressed your body is because it can keep up with the demands when you are not moving.  Stand up quickly and take a few quick steps and the feedback is swift.  So too this week, I learned that grief is an invitation to move very slowly.  Like acclimatization, it is a slow process that cannot be rushed or forced and I must climb through it step by step.  The route is new to me and I don’t know the markers along the way.  The snow is deep overwhelming and at times, I am pitched forward onto my face when my foot drops into a posthole.  The visibility is poor, making it difficult to see both the route and my teammates. 

 

I know enough to follow the rope in front of me, to try to step in the footprints that others have left, to take breaks, and to trust that I will get new views as I climb higher.  This is a climb that there is no turning back from.  I can’t call it off because of bad weather or risky conditions.  I can’t stop it.  I can only climb it as best as I can, knowing there will be avalanches of emotion along the entire route.  I can’t avoid these pounding white waves that pummel me with loss and deep sadness at frequent, seemingly random intervals, triggered by invisibly, falling from their high perches to bury me. 

 

I can only traverse this terrain with care and cherish the memories and profound inspiration that my Dad has given me from the moment I was born…to speaking on the phone with him just the other night.  My Buddhist path has taught me that it is possible to synchronously do two paradoxical things at once if I can and grasp that duality doesn’t exist–I must simultaneously hold onto the rope that ties my Dad and I together while at the same time, prepare to take him off-belay.  This will be the toughest climb of my life thus far and Marian and I will be heading to Edmonton soon to join my family.

 

Thanks to all who sent get wishes to Marian this week.  She’s recovering very well and I’m very grateful since that means she will be able to travel with me.  We shared a quiet week where she rested at home and I made short forays into the world to train and receive athletic therapy.  Todd Row at Allied Health Services has been helping to get my patellar tendonitis to settle down. 

 

Ironically, one of Todd’s recommendations is that I need to stretch more (of the five areas of fitness–flexibility is my least favourite).  I guess the universe these days wants to stretch me both physically and emotionally.  The other day I described myself as feeling like lately I’d been shredded on the cheese grater of life.  It’s always good when my sense of humour rises to the top of the coping strategies list.  It’s one of my best and one I learned from my Dad–he loves to laugh, joke, and often knows just how to make someone more comfortable by making fun of himself.  I inherited my funny bone from him.

 

I appreciate all of the support Marian and I have received over the past few weeks and I’ll ask that you continue to reach out as the mountain suddenly seems even steeper now.  Please keep my entire family in your thoughts and prayers.  Have a good week and take care.

 

With gratitude to you,

 

TA

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Down River

Happy US Thanksgiving!

 

As I look forward to this week, where my friends south of the 49th parallel will be celebrating Thanksgiving, I am thankful that last week went as well as it could have and that Marian came through surgery like a trooper, is home now, and is on the road to recovery.  After last week’s road metaphor (thanks to all for the kind feedback), I turn this week to the metaphor of a river.  Actually a specific river, the Colorado, through a specific place, the Grand Canyon, to make sense and meaning of the experience called “last week.”  I wrote at some point each day to reflect, process, and deal with the huge waves of emotion that poured over me regularly.

 

Nov. 16, 2009

 

Last spring, Marian and I rafted the Colorado River through the Grand Canyon.  It was a 226-mile journey through one of my favourite places on earth and it was such a joy to share it with her.  As we prepared ourselves for her surgery, I was in search (as I always am) of a guiding metaphor.  Very quickly, the memories of the Colorado River surfaced and provided a frame for the feelings that were engulfing us.

 

Rapids on the Colorado are graded from one to ten based on their difficulty and level of risk.  Before most rapids of eight or above, we would stop and scout the rapid from shore.  We’d look for big rocks, hydraulic water features, and standing waves with an eye to find the best line to the bottom of the rapid.  At the top of every rapid is the “V”–the water pours through the rocks at the top and makes a V shaped trough that you aim to put your raft down the middle of.  As you drop down the V, you pull left or right or ride it right down the middle.

 

The jury is out about how much you can really influence the movement of the boat once you are in the rapid.  Usually, the key is in the set-up…if you get the boat to the best place, you’ll get through.  As we neared Lava Falls, the largest drop on the river, we read the description in the guidebook, “Enter the V on the mid right and begin to pull hard to the left.  Attempt to pull over the large standing waves and avoid the huge pillow rock at the bottom on river right.  Don’t worry in twenty seconds it will be over either way–you’ll either be upright or you won’t.”

 

The description was oddly comforting knowing that the experience (like everything else) would pass and be done shortly.  At the top of the rapid, the water pools a bit and seems to slow.  I wondered if we would ever get to the rapid and the thundering pulse of my heart competed with the cacophonous roar of the impending drop.  Then suddenly, the current caught us and the boat began to slide down into the rapid–there was no turning back then–just trust and pull.  Breathe and hold on.  Twenty seconds of intense, intense living.  My memories of the rapid are a blurring blend of adrenaline and roller coaster–we did manage to go up on the pillow rock but slid harmlessly off and cheered wildly at being upright at the bottom of Lava! 

 

In the days before her surgery, both Marian and I drew on the idea of setting up for the rapid.  We did everything we knew to bring her strength up, to set up a great health care team, and to get the house ready for her recovery time.  Despite the large waves of emotion that rolled over and through us, we kept working to see the way through the cataract, memorize the line, and then position the boat at the top of the V. 

 

I’m sitting in the waiting room as I type this knowing that Marian is now in the rapid–there is no pulling the boat back up river–she must ride it out.  I’m standing on the shore with throw line in hand and trusting that in a few hours, the rapid will be over and we’ll reunite at the bottom of the chasm.  This morning as I sat with her, I recognized that the same thundering herd of butterflies from the Grand Canyon had once again taken up residence in my belly and I took solace in recognizing the familiarity of the sensations.  We got through the Colorado upright and all right, and I’m tied to that hope today as well.

 

Standing here on “the shore”, I’ve put my proverbial foot in the shoes of those who love and care about me and have a visceral sense of what it must be like when I head up into the risks of the high altitude environment.  I’m filled with empathy of how hard it is to sit and wait and pray that no harm comes to a loved one.  I knew it before, but today I am reminded of it on a deep, deep level.  In feeling this, I am also committing to doing everything I can to stack the odds in my favour, prepare well, make good decisions, and position my boat in the best possible way on the Everest V wave.

 

Nov. 17, 2009

 

Of the hundreds of rapids on the Colorado River through the Grand Canyon, there are two that are feared the most: Lava Falls and Crystal.  Crystal comes relatively early in the trip just past Phantom Ranch.  It’s a teeming monster of white water with several boat-eating holes to navigate around.  The first time I rowed the Grand, I took one look at Crystal and decided I would walk around it.  One of my teammates rowed my boat through and I shot video for the crew.  On my second canyon trip, I was rowing well, lead boat, and ready to attempt Crystal.  We arrived at scout and the water was low (because of the Glen Canyon dam and fluctuating energy needs, the Colorado River has a tide). 

 

The low water meant that the run on river left that squirted the first massive hole was available.  We had someone on the team who’d flipped a boat in Crystal before.  He wanted to watch a guided team go through.  Then a private group.  Then another commercial group.  By then, the water had risen and the door to the left run was slammed shut.  We re-scouted for the right hand run which required rowing backward across the V wave to spin and miss the first hole.  I wasn’t at all psyched for the run and hated (at that point) to enter rapids backwards.  With heavy heart, I pushed off into the river with Liz riding on my front pontoon like a rodeo rider on a bucking bronco.

 

I set my boat up and began to pull hard across the V.  The enormous rush of current grabbed the boat and we shot off like a rocket.  I pulled and pulled but not hard enough.  We got dragged down the V and didn’t have enough momentum to break the large standing V wave.  In an instant, we cascaded right down into the maw of that first hole.  The force of the water threw the stern into the air and the boat catapulted over itself throwing both Liz and I into the mercy of the river.  After a thrashing in the hole, I surfaced and caught a lung-full of air and realized the boat was out of reach to grab.  I was forced to swim the kilometer long rapid without the extra floatation of the raft.

 

Liz surfaced nearby and grabbed my PFD.  We were instantly swept into the next gigantic hole and thrown violently to the river’s bottom.  Fortunately we weren’t imprisoned by the hole’s hydraulics and soon were careening towards the third hole.  That one flushed us through and now only the “bone-yard”, a rocky outcrop in the middle of the current threatened us.  With most of us strength zapped by the extremely cold water, we feebly swam towards river right and managed to avoid being strained through the rocks.  I finally got to shore and couldn’t see Liz.  I jumped up to see if I could spot her–she was around a rock outcrop puking out the river water.  I climbed over to her and we rejoiced in being alive after a huge Crystal Swim.

 

The rest of the team came down with one other raft flipping.  We righted the boats.  The rest of the day is rather a blur of frothing whitewater, spent adrenaline, and holding on and getting through.  You see, below Crystal are “The Jewels.”  Oft underestimated, oft misunderstood–this collection of gems…Sapphire, Ruby, and the like are demanding in their own right.  A collection of seven eights and nines they catch the unwary boater who has failed to look downriver from Crystal.

 

The third time I rowed Crystal I followed Kristen Zbornik down the left hand run and had a perfect run–after which was major celebration.  This past April, I sat behind Sharon and barked commands as she piloted the boat down the left hand run.  Marian and Chama were ready to highside and we kissed the cliff on the river left but we got through it.  Marian could see the relief than flowed from every pore in my body when we were all safely through Crystal.  I relaxed for the first time on the trip.

 

Today, I feel like Marian and I are in the Jewels.  We got through yesterday’s Crystal (the surgery) in good form, with a great line, and with the boat upright and everyone on board.  It was tough but the relief at the bottom of the rapid was easily palpable.  Today, with adrenaline spent, the day looms a bit tougher.  She has more pain and more nausea.  I have more pain seeing her in pain.  We’re watching for any sign of complications.  We’re still riding the current and trying to position the boat in the best spot for all the rapids that are coming our way and we recognize we’re only a third of the way down the river.

 

Fortunately, we had river beta.  We knew the jewels would come after Crystal and had prepared for them.  We keep our oars in the water and trust that we’re just where we need to be.

 

Nov. 18, 2009

 

After the jewels, the river grants a small respite.  A few days filled with more slack water, beautiful sights, and rapids that are more fun than terrifying.  Coming into the hospital this morning, it feels like we’ve left the jewels and are looking forward to going downriver at a less intense pace.  I’ve relaxed today some and can sense movement towards healing. 

 

We know there could still be a Lava Falls (infection) but we hope to avoid running another huge rapid on this trip.  We’ll keep heading downriver prepared for whatever the current takes us towards.

 

Nov. 19, 2009

 

We are definitely past the jewels.  The intensity of the week has eased and we enjoy the trip home.  We settle into our healing base camp (home) and start strategizing on leaving the river for the mountain eighteen weeks from now.  If recovery continues to go well, we’re hoping Marian will still be able to trek to Mount Everest in April of 2010. 

 

Nov. 20, 2009

 

As we transitioned from the hospital to home, I was reminded of the excitement of arriving at Everest Base Camp.  It usually takes between ten and fourteen days to trek to base camp and there is great excitement in finally arriving there.  A few days of settling in, puja blessing and then the hard work of climbing the mountain can begin.

 

I was filled with a similar excitement when we reached home yesterday.  Finally, we were where we wanted to be.  Looking ahead, I see the long road of recovery stretching before us and I know will climb this figurative mountain in the same way we climb any other, step by step.  We’ve found a few recovery training programs that progress from short 3 minute walks forward to full physical capacity over six to eight weeks and each day, we’ll make out way through the plan.  We’ll be extremely mindful of rest, nutrition, and taking it all very slowly.

 

Looking back at the week, I can see that I was really prepared for the Crystal day but not so much for the jewels.  The river has taught me once again of the value of beta and scouting and keeping an eye on both the current rapid and what lies ahead around the bend.  I’ve appreciated the river metaphors for its guidance and ability to assist me in making sense of all the emotional currents of the week.

 

Nov. 22, 2009

 

We’re happily ensconced in our base camp.  The last few days have almost felt like vacation.  When Marian is sitting still, she’s doing so well, it’s easy to forget that she just arrived at base camp.  We’ve been having fun playing hokey from life, catching up on a few seasons of Grey’s Anatomy, receiving visitors, and contemplating life six weeks down river.  I am so proud of Marian and the tremendous courage she displayed this week.  I will draw upon those memories when I need a dose of the same.

 

I am grateful to Marian’s doctors, nurses, and hospital staff for providing excellent care.  Thanks for all my doc and nurse friends who provided advice and hints for getting through the experience.  I am also appreciative for the acts of kindness we received this week from a dietary aide providing me with a meal at the hospital to friends dropping off meals and supplies, to friends checking in and listening at the end of long days, and to family and friends coming over so I could still get out to a few hockey games.  Each kindness struck a note of joy in my heart and I appreciate how deeply moved I was by each of them.

 

Please continue to keep us both in your thoughts and prayers.  Please also add my mom and dad to that list.  My dad has been having a pretty rough go of it lately and I’m wanting to infuse them both with lots of love and healing energy.

 

Take good care,

 

TA

 

 

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With Glowing Heart

Happy Anniversary Mom and Dad!

 

The title of one of the many books I read a book in grad school stayed with me over the years: “We Make the Road by Walking” because it so aptly describes the unfolding of a journey.  A few weeks back, when I was first in Australia and getting used to driving on the left side of the road, I caught myself over and over again being tempted to say that “We are driving on the wrong side of the road.”  Each time however, I would catch myself and say aloud, “Hey–we’re driving on the other side of the road” instead.  I would then muse about how it easy it is to frame “different” as “wrong” and how seductive it is to stay within “secure” environs, situations where we know how things work or where we are comfortable.

 

Along the road, there are many intersections and our paths unfold depending on whether we turn right, left, go forward, pull a U-turn or park the car.  In my presentations, I show a picture of a road sign in Tibet where my choices were to turn left and go towards a “loud ditch” or turn right towards the “Pearl Peak Supreme Headquarters.”  I turned my bicycle right and a few kilometres down the road saw Mount Everest towering before me. 

 

It was then that I knew I wanted to climb Everest.  Standing at the North Everest basecamp the next day, I had someone take a picture of me so that I could remember that moment of deciding I wanted to climb Everest.  At that point, I wasn’t worried about the climbing (though I probably should have been), I was worried about the fundraising because I had no idea how a shy, phone-phobic human being could possibly raise the $60,000 necessary to climb Mount Everest.

 

In 2008, along that same piece of road amid a mountain of controversy, the Olympic Torch was carried in the relay that would eventually take the flame to the summit of Mount Everest and onto Beijing for the Games.  Yesterday, along High Street in Grand Falls-Windsor, I carried that same flame.  Similar to a Buddhist lineage where teachings are transmitted from the Buddha through teachers to students, the Olympic Flame is passed from one Olympic Games to the next, from Athens to the next host location.

 

Canada is hosting the 2010 Olympic Winter Games in Vancouver and Whistler.  To carry the flame to the Games, they have organized the longest domestic torch relay in history.  In 102 days, the Torch Relay will use 12,000 torchbearers to move the flame 45,000 kilometres.  Last night, I was honoured and touched and moved to spend 300 metres with the Olympic Flame on my parent’s 45th wedding anniversary.

 

I was the first to receive the flame in Grand Falls-Windsor so the flame arrived in a small lantern.  The Flame Keepers transferred the flame from the lantern and ignited my torch.  My moment with the flame arrived.  I raised the torch skyward and felt my spirit soar alongside the bold, crackling light.  I had planned to walk with the torch but was encouraged by the entourage to run if I could.  Listening to their instructions, I made Marian’s job as photographer tougher as she then, also had to run.

 

There is a red maple leaf on the torch indicates which way to hold it, “Closest to your heart,” our briefer had said.  My heart beat faster and faster as I took those first tentative steps into the black night and then I gazed upward at the flame and began to run.  I’m not sure if I ever really looked forward as to where I was going because I was so mesmerized by the flame.  “I’m holding the Olympic Flame, I’m holding the Olympic Flame” kept coming into my mind following by “This flame has been to the summit of Mount Everest and I will follow it there.”  I wanted to blaze the image of its bright hope on my mind, heart, and soul so that when mine dims along the road to and on Everest (as I know it will at times), I can draw courage, strength, and persistence from the thousands of athletes who have dedicated themselves to the pursuit of excellence in their sport.

 

As I had been warned, my time with the flame was quickly over.  I turned the corner onto Church Street and walked the last few feet to the next torchbearer.  I stopped, glanced at the flame once more and then brought my torch down to ignite the next one.  My torch was then turned off and I spotted Marian off to my right.  I quickly went over and gave her a hug and then needed to jump aboard the shuttle bus.  The other torchbearers welcomed me aboard enthusiastically and I enjoyed watching the rest of the torchbearer team complete their legs of the relay.

 

We drove up to the community celebration where the crowd cheered on Tony Kyritsis as he arrived with the flame to light the cauldron.  As I made my way towards the stage to watch the festivities, I looked at the faces of many children as I walked by with the torch.  They were awestruck, glowing really (as was I).  They had, at that moment, been filled with the true spirit of the Olympic Games and to any child that seemed like he or she wanted it, I offered a chance to hold the torch.  They then would remark on either how heavy or light it was and marvel at its design and their proud parents would come over and capture the moment.

 

I was sponsored as a torchbearer by the province of Newfoundland and Labrador so I met Minister Sullivan backstage during the celebration and shared some about what the experience was like to carry the torch.  After the fireworks, Marian and I realized how chilled we were and headed to find some supper.  I’m grateful to Marian for making the big road trip with me out to Grand Falls-Windsor to share in my Olympic experience… sharing it with her made it more fun and more meaningful to me.

 

Three weeks ago, two kilometres deep along a bush road in Australia, Marian and I shared a different experience.  She had a bit of a health crisis that scared us both pretty deeply and tomorrow she’ll have surgery to prevent it from happening again.  Marian is embarking on a mountainous journey of healing and I will be there every step along her road to recovery.  I would ask that you keep us both in your thoughts and prayers tomorrow and over the next few months.

 

I had no idea when I decided, at that dusty intersection in Tibet, to turn right that I would attempt to climb Mount Everest, carry the Olympic Torch, or fall so deeply in love again.  I’ve had to repeatedly leave pavement that is so comfortable and secure for the learning, growth, and love that lies just beyond sight around the bend on rutted and bumpy dirt roads.

 

Thanks for walking this road with me…what intersections are you at?

 

TA

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The Deep Well

Good Morning to All,

 

The early morning, early winter light is draping the South Side Hills in a gentle blanket of rose taffeta.  As I glance out the window, my gaze lowers to the delightfully delicate blossoms on our “rescued” Christmas cactus.  I’ve been learning to garden this year and this adventure has included bringing home some of the half-price specials from the local grocery store.  We’ve saved them all and the cactus’ blooms are reward for this behaviour and are reminiscent of origami cranes launching into flight from green branches.

 

A steaming of cup of tea warms me from the inside and is part of my swine flu avoidance program.  I’m settling into my chair to reflect on the week and see what rises to the top of my mind for sharing with you today.  It was a week where I wrote frequent updates to you in my mind hoping to capture a moment or an insight, and now I wish I’d actually had put pen to paper so I could remember what some of them were.  Images from the later part of the week are most present in my mind so I’ll start there and see what I weave out on the warp of the week.

 

I did three inspirational speaking engagements in the past three days: one in Gander to newly elected municipal officials from across the province, one to the Canadian Institute of Metallurgy and one to a Body, Mind, and Spirit retreat.  Each group was very different in how they responded and the parts of the message that resonated with them as well as being remarkably similar.  I am always awed when an audience rises in tribute at the end of one of my talks;  I’m humbled and almost always–embarrassed.  I do my best to accept their appreciation gracefully and silently hope that they will take something forward from the presentation into whatever challenges they are facing in their lives.

 

I know for me that I try to take something forward from each climb or adventure into those that come next.  From Denali, I took discipline and the knowledge of how routine both inspires and nurtures discipline.  From Aconcagua, I experienced both the demands and rewards of patience.  Kilimanjaro brought the joys of shared experience, camaraderie, and an invitation to venture once again into deep relationship.  Oyos de Salado delivered the courage to begin again leaving disappointment in its wake and Pumori taught me that in giving, I receive more much in return.  Kosciuszko and other Australian experiences have delivered a plethora of summons to nurture curiosity, connection, and vulnerability.

 

As I think back over the delight of seeing kangaroos leaping gracefully in the distance or poised in silent witness at the side of the road, I am struck with the privilege of drinking deeply at the well of experience.  Some times the water is so sweet and refreshing and at others, bitter and hard to swallow.  It takes courage to continue to visit the spring never knowing what I will carry away in my life’s bucket.  The temptation to withdraw within is there for me but mostly I try to embrace the following instruction from Chogyam Trungpa Rinpoche that “The everyday practice is simply to develop complete acceptance and openness to all situations and emotions, and to all people, experiencing everything totally without reservations or blockages so that one never withdraws or centralizes into oneself.”  (Thanks to Susan for reminding me of this instruction with every email she sends).

An image of climbing a knife-edged ridge comes into my mind.  In some mountaineering texts I’ve read, they caution that when climbing such a ridge that if my climbing partner falls to one side of the ridge, I should be prepared to hurl myself over the other side thus stringing the rope that connects us over the top.  This would leave us “safely” hanging over the two precipices but in quite a predicament.  We’d have to sort out how to climb back to the ridge without introducing slack into the system that could enable the other to fall further down the slope.  There is both vulnerability and safety that comes in roping up together and facing the challenges of climbing (and life) in community.

 

In talking with my homeopath this week, I saw clearly that I am being invited to experience the vulnerability that comes with the openness that the Chogyam Rinpoche was teaching about.  I also perceived that in my vulnerability is my strength so rather than avoid it, it’s time to embrace it.  One of the gifts of my Germanic heritage is the ability to be stoic and to carry the sense of needing to pull off many things without help.  As I look at the realities of preparing for and climbing Mount Everest, I see that I need to expand beyond what is comfortable and to be in the world in new and different ways and for this week, that way is being vulnerable and open to whatever is coming my way.

 

I also need to ask for help–something I’m not terribly good at…in one of my Buddhist texts, there is a list of 49 ways in which a Bodhisattva can fail.  At the moment, I can only recall one of them:  “Failing to enable or allow the generosity of others.”  Funny how that goes…so I’m going to practice asking for help.  There are numerous ways that you can help out or support me as I traverse the path that is taking me back to the world’s tallest mountain.  I’ll type the list of ideas that pop into my head–if any of them seem like an invitation to you, drop me a line and I’ll provide more details. 

 

Some of the things/areas I need help with:

 

Inspiration:        I’m looking for folks to write letters/notes that I can take on the mountain and open when the going gets tough (written on lightweight paper).  I can also use regular doses of inspiration/motivation along the way.

 

Sponsorship:        We’ve almost got my new and improved sponsorship package completed.  I need connections.  As I am phone-phobic and a quite shy academic, I could use help in setting up meetings where I can present my expedition to potential funders/sponsors.  I feel like I can stretch and do well at such meetings but I’m at a loss at who to meet with.  Do you have folks you could introduce me to?  Could you be a sponsor or do you work for an organization that could be a sponsor?  As a side note, this year I do have a sponsorship option that can include a charitable receipt.

 

Driving:        Soon it will be time to start doing multiple ascents of Signal Hill once again, could you donate a few hours of driving downhill to enable this valuable training process?

 

Training:        Sometimes training alone is a drag.  Company is nice on occasion.  I’m looking for folks who’d like to go out for a hike or keep me company as I do some of my training. 

 

Eating Well:        Balancing work, training, speaking, and fundraising can leave little time out in a day.  In the past, some folks have helped out by sharing meals.  If you’re cooking a big batch of something, perhaps you could freeze a serving or two that I can store in my freezer when life is too full to cook.

 

Curriculum:         I’m redesigning the school curriculum we created in 2007 for teachers to use with their students.  I’m looking for a few folks to help out with the revision–finding good Internet links about Everest and Nepal that can be included in the package that will go out to schools once again in the spring.

 

Ladders:        Along with physical training, I want to practice skills that will speed up my travel on the mountain.  I want to construct a “Khumbu” training ground in my back garden so I am looking for four or five aluminum ladders that I can borrow/have.  They would be leaving outside during the winter so they should probably be old ladders nearing the end of their useful lives.  The other day I asked Earl Ludlow if Newfoundland Power might have some old ones.  I also wondered about Aliant…anyone else have an old ladder kicking about?

 

Boot Heating:        Some climbers use boot and/or glove heating systems at high altitude.  I have used the charcoal kind but am wondering about the battery powered systems–anyone have such a system that I could try out?

 

Gear:        There are just a few pieces of gear that I need to acquire for this climb…a four season base camp tent, some new goggles, and perhaps a new expedition communications system (I’m contemplating moving up to a netbook from the PDA).  Batteries…always need batteries…especially lithium double and triple A kind.

 

Donations:        The Everest 2010 Mountain of Learning Experiential Education Award at Memorial University of Newfoundland has been created and there is now an on-line donation option.  Here is the URL and please ensure you click the button for the award so your contribution gets to the right place.  With many of us adding a small amount to the award, we’ll reach the summit of being able to support students in short order.  Thanks in advance. https://www5.mun.ca/dir/viking.gv020.p001

 

That’s a good list for now.  There will be other things that come up and I’ll pass on my requests along the way.  Thanks for checking out the list and I appreciate your support in all the many ways it appears.

 

I want to thank the sponsors who have come on-board already for Everest 2010.  AppleCore Interactive has been with me since I climbed Denali and I can’t imagine doing this without their support and expertise.  The Egg Producers of Newfoundland and Labrador have been an important 2009 sponsor and I hope you’ve heard our second radio commercial “3000 eggs.”  I’d also like to thank my newest sponsor, Allied Health Services of the School of Human Kinetics and Recreation.  They have offered to support my training and preparation through nutritional counseling, athletic therapy, massage therapy, and exercise testing. 

 

Have a good week,

 

TA

 

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They Fly Through the Air with the Greatest of Ease–Not!

Bunny, Bunny!

Somewhere along the way I learned that the first thing we should say on the morning of a new month is “Bunny, Bunny,” so it seemed like an apt greeting for today.  Welcome back to standard time for those who’d left it for the increased light of daylight savings time (I believe Arizona and Saskatchewan abstain).  I remember hearing once that they tried daylight savings time once in Ecuador–I must admit I never quite understood as the sun rises and sets at the same time there all year because of their proximity to the equator (though at the same time, I think it’s always good to try new things).  It’s definitely a change to have moved from Southern Hemisphere Spring to Northern Hemisphere Autumn where the light is leaving instead of arriving.  I appreciated the few extra weeks of making vitamin D!

 

I am back home after some marvelous weeks of adventure and new experiences.  It’s hard to know what to write about first.  One quote that informs my teaching and living comes from the book “Illusions: The Adventures of a Reluctant Messiah” where Richard Bach claims, “We teach best what we most need to learn.”  I also try to embrace and invite situations where I am uncomfortable or are a stretch for me.  Thirdly, I believe it’s critical for teachers to regularly return to the role of student so we can remember all the fear, anxiety, excitement, and joy of learning something new.  The first day of the Association of Experiential Education conference provided an invitation that addressed all of the above values.

 

There was a poster inviting participants to spend a workshop session “flying.”  Not metaphorically.  Flying for real.  On a trapeze!  I have to digress a bit to say that I have always been a fan of the circus and the trapeze artists are some of my favourite acts.  I even considered attending the Barnum & Bailey Circus Clown school as a young adult (they only admitted US students at that point).  After seeing Cirque de Soleil in April, I must confess to checking out their website to see what it took to become one of their performers.  So naturally, when offered the opportunity to fling myself into space holding onto a trapeze bar, I jumped at the chance, as did my dear friend and colleague, Karen Warren.  Karen signed up her 16 yr old daughter, Amelia, as well!

 

About 17 others joined us and our first challenge was to find our way to Trapezium by the Montreal metro!  I instantly recalled my challenges in Moscow navigating the subway using Cyrillic signage.  I appreciated the bilingual world of the Montreal underground.  Excitement was running very high in the group, as this was a new activity for all.  We arrived and were greeted by our three instructors.  “Don’t worry,” they consoled us, “We’ll have you flying in minutes.”  Many of us weren’t sure we wanted to be airborne that quickly.

 

A quick demo of how to put on the safety harnesses and “Heidi the Brave” was already climbing the ladder to a blue wooden platform suspended 25 feet off the ground.  Along with the belay lines, there was a net to catch us that was held about 6 feet off the ground.  We al stared up with amazement as within ten minutes of arriving, Heidi had swung out from the platform, brought up her knees and hang upside down by her knees from the bar, let go of the bar with her hands, and then righted herself and then dismounted from the bar with a backflip!

 

Spontaneous applause and nervous twitter erupted from the group!  Heidi had shown us exactly how it was done!  A few turns later, it was my turn.  As I climbed up the ladder, I noticed that a herd of butterflies had assembled in my midsection and were doing their best imitation of “River Dance.”  The beating of their wings and feet in time fanned the intensity flames of the experience and I noticed I was on an edge, both figuratively and literally.  It was different sensation, as heights don’t often bother me (though I don’t usually fling myself off them purposely either).  I came round the ladder and got hooked into the belay.  The instructor on the platform moved things along with a practiced rhytm.

 

My left hand grasped the ladder and I was told to reach out for the bar with my right.  Even though I had been warned, the bar was heavier than I ever imagined.  Its weight immediately dragged me closely to the edge and to the looming drop below.  On command, I grabbed the bar with my left hand and, without the aid of the instructor holding me back, I would have been catapulted into the void.  Hung out over edge like a chicken waiting for slaughter, I jumped as soon as the instructor said, “Hep!” 

 

We’d been briefed to listen to the instructor on the ground who would let us know the ideal moment to swing our legs up, turn upside down, let go with our hands, return to the bar, and then drop the bar.  I must admit that I’m not sure I heard a word he said on that first go, as sensations of flying and falling inundated my brain.  However, I did swing my legs up on command but neglected to bend my knees.  I tried again on the second swing and got my foot nearer the bar but still fell short of the task.  I dropped to the net without waiting for the command and so got a stern talking to about listening more carefully for the commands.  I think the butterflies’ dance had deafened me to the sounds of the outside world.

 

It was new to be less physically competent than the rest of the group–turns out that I’d been too strong but under-flexible.  I turned my attention to Karen and Amelia and the butterflies stomped off stage right.  It was so cool to watch Amelia hit it perfectly on her first go!  After everyone had a first round go, it was time to try it all again.  As I climbed the ladder, I rehearsed the move in my mind and imagined my knees bending enough to allow my legs to come through my hands.  The butterflies briefly migrated through but this time, it was easier to stand on the platform holding the bar since the sensations were more familiar.  “Hep!”  I’m flying once more but again my feet strike the bar on both attempts.  At least this time, with more spaciousness inside my belly, my ears seem to work and I follow the instructions and pull off a beautiful back flip when dismounting the bar.

 

As I flip off the net, I’m given the keys to the city.  Simone, the head instructor says he has just the technique for someone like me who has little flexibility…”Hold your hands close together and swing your legs straight wide and around.”  I waited for my third attempt sad that while others are graduating to “being caught,” (leaving the safety of their bar to swing from the arms of another instructor) and I was still working on the prerequisites.  I climbed the ladder seeing my new move in my mind, leapt off the platform, flew through the air, my legs swung up and suddenly my knees were effortlessly on the bar!  On command, I let go of my hands and arched my back looking towards the rafters-perfect position for being caught next time.  I end that round with another back flip and the place erupted in cheers!  “I did it!” I yell to myself and I pump my fist in the air.

 

Simone says, “Leave your harness on–I want you to go up again soon.”  Once again, the butterflies are back, this time flying in a unified swarm bouncing hard from one side of my belly to another.  I’m amped!  I’m charged.  The adrenaline is coursing through my body.  A few turns later, I venture up the ladder once again–hoping to follow Amelia’s lead and fly perfectly into the arms of my catcher.  I’m nervous thinking I will screw up.  I’d only had one go at my new technique.  The platform instructor advises me to listen carefully to Simone as she noticed that I’d gone a little early than one of his commands on my previous go. 

 

Left hand holding the ladder.  Right hands reaches out for the bar.  Left hand joins it.  Hanging out over the net.  The catcher begins swinging–this time, he calls the “Hep.”  I launch.  I swing.  Legs arise at the right moment.  Knees catch the bar.  Hands let go.  Back arches.  Hands grasped.  Knees release.  I’m swinging lower now held by someone who is hanging by his knees!  After a big arch, he drops me into the net and I enjoy both the moment and the cheering support of the group.  I am already thinking about how I can fly again.  Not today.  I’m done–stick a fork in me.  The wayward Monarchs have pressed all of the adrenaline out of me rather like those who stomp the juice from grapes to make wine.

 

Karen, Amelia and I speak excitedly about the experience the entire metro ride back to the hotel.  We invent a greeting of raising our hands and saying “Hep.”  We bask in the glow of a new and challenging experience.  We’ve lived at our edges and now can celebrate all of the insights that come from being there. 

 

For me, it was fabulous to observe our instructors work with folks in the trapeze environment.  I loved watching good teachers and being taught well.  I enjoyed feeling the sensations and feelings of student-hood and pledged to remember how that felt the next time I begin a class or ask a student to step closer to her or his edge.  I will ponder my reaction to the challenge of taking several tries to get it and appreciate my tenacity in trying.  Finally, I will cherish sharing the experience with Amelia and Karen and I’m certain that the next time we see each other, we will relive the experience over and over again.

 

So, I’m out of time and space to talk about kangaroos and koalas–that will have to wait…after a few weeks of little physical activity, I look forward to the next phase of training that begins tomorrow!  Drop me a line to let me know where your edge is hanging out these days.  Happy November and have a great week!

 

TA

 

PS…There are pictures nestled safely in Karen’s camera.  I’ll post them when I get them!

 

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Summit Number Five!!!

G’ Day Mates from the Snowy Mountains of Australia,

 

Two weeks ago, I was shocked to learn of the huge amounts of snow remaining in the Snowy Mountains this year and promptly went and added snowshoes to my packing pile for Australia.  I could hardly believe it!  Snow in Australia–never really imagined there would be snow in Australia but I have since learned a bunch more about my sixth continent.  Yesterday as I slogged my way up Kosciusko’s snow covered flanks, I gave thanks for my pattern of tracking a mountain’s weather for the few weeks before I climb it.  That tracking provided us with snowshoes and kept Marian and I from having to posthole the entire 13 km journey to the summit and back.

 

Mount Kosciusko is the highest peak in Australia (there is a higher one in an Australian territory on a small Pacific island).  It is located in the Snowy Mountains about halfway between Sydney and Melbourne and within the protective boundaries of Mount Kosciusko National Park.  It is named for a Polish explorer and I hear there is a Mount Kosciusko in Poland as well–might need to add that one to the list.  List…it is because of a list that I am here. 

 

Dick Bass was the first person to climb the “Seven Summits”, the highest point on each of the continents.  He is a strong amateur climber from Texas and he chose Kosciusko as his seventh summit.  Pat Morrow, a professional mountaineer from Canada, was the second person to complete the Seven Summits.  He chose a peak in Indonesia, Carstenz Pyramid, because he used “Astral-Oceania” as the seventh continent.  Since then, some climbers have gone with Bass and some with Morrow, and many with both.  For now, since I’ve always imagined Australia as the seventh continent, I’m going with Bass.

 

When we arrived at the Kosciusko Visitor’s Centre to check conditions and purchase some maps, we were briefed about the large amount of snow still remaining in the mountains.  The Snowy Mountains were living up to their name!  We were shown pictures of cars passing through two metre drifts that covered the road to Charlotte Pass.  We heard from a park warden who’d just returned from a trip in the backcountry who warned of flooding and huge amounts of water beneath the snow creating sinkholes that could potentially drown you if you sunk through.  All of a sudden, this wasn’t shaping up to be the “almost a given” walk-up that I’d understood Kosciusko to be.  My spirit sank as I realized there was a real chance we wouldn’t get the summit, I’d come halfway around the world to get.

 

As much as I try to frame my quest of the Seven Summits as a journey that begins long before a mountain and ends only when the next one begins, I sometimes fall prey to summit fever–wanting to get to the top really bad!  Wednesday evening I recognized the pressure that spending lots of time and money to pursue a mountain ups the pressure and increases my craving of the summit.  I was suddenly anxious about both the climbing conditions and about the impact of those conditions on our chances for getting to the top.

 

We packed our gear carefully because the Snowy Mountains have a reputation for rapidly changing weather.  We entered waypoints in the GPS in case the visibility was poor (as it turns out, it was good that it was clear as the GPS seems to have been damaged enroute to here).  We studied route over and over again, enjoyed a yummy dinner and hit the hay early to get a good night’s rest.  Summit day dawned bright and sunny.  Winds were moderate and the temperature delightful for crossing snow.  The UV Index was 9 (extreme), which meant careful attention to sunscreen and sunglasses would be critical.

 

Marian and I headed out from the top of the Kosciusko Express chair lift.  The walking track was quickly buried under snow but we could see the remains of snowshoe and boot tracks.  A few steps into the soft snow had us reaching for our snowshoes–the climb was underway.  We stopped often to admire the view, wonder at all the snow, consult the map, hydrate, and catch out breath.  Even though we were climbing at only 1900 metres, we could still feel the influence of the altitude.  We’d arrived in the valley on the day before but I didn’t want to wait a day to acclimatize because we had good climbing weather in front of us and I didn’t want to chance it.  I knew we’d feel the thinner air but we weren’t at risk for any serious altitude issues.

 

We were climbing through a lovely valley with ridges to both sides.  About 2 kilometres into the climb, we caught our first glimpse of Kosciusko.  A long steep corniced ridge surprised me with some avalanche debris coming off it.  The Land Down Under has held so many surprises!  It was good to finally see the peak and see the route forward.  After some more climbing, we reached Rawson’s Pass and had a snack.  The route from Charlotte Pass meets here and I finally knew that it was likely we’d summit.  The winter route varied from the summer by going directly up Kosciusko’s southern flank rather than going around the back along the summit track.  I was glad for the traction cleats on my snowshoes, as the terrain got quite steep near the top!

 

I saw the stone tower that had been constructed on the summit!  We were going to make it.  I would stand on the fifth of my seven summits.  I wouldn’t have to come back to Australia to climb Kosciusko again!  (Not that I wouldn’t mind, however, this trip has really just been an appetizer for the grand buffet of experiences and sights that Australia offers).  It took two attempts to get Elbrus and will take at least two to get Everest so I was pleased that Kosciusko was a one timer!

 

We drank in the views, bundle up against the wind, took heaps of summit photos including Velma and Flat Stanley, had some lunch, and didn’t really want to leave the summit.  The surrounding snow covered peaks gave way to the blue hazed capped peaks of the lesser range and it felt like we could see for hundreds of miles.  What a joy to share a summit with Marian once again (she climbed Kili with me in June of 2008).

 

After an hour or so on the summit, we coaxed ourselves off knowing that the snow was just getting softer and the way home a more difficult task.  We passed a few more folks on their way up.  The trip down was faster, of course, because it was downhill and we could just follow our tracks out.  We stopped for a celebratory lunch at Australia’s Highest Restaurant, “The Eagle’s Nest.”  (Xander…I did see an eagle sculpture at the restaurant but no real ones).  Velma auditioned for the menu but elected in the end to come down and keep climbing mountains with me.

 

We hit the showers and enjoyed a well-earned nap for the rest of the afternoon.  A fine, fine climb made more special by the huge amount of snow!  I realized all the uncertainty made the summit all the finer! 

 

Today we hiked along the Thredbo River through forests of Blue Gum Trees and saw parrots flying from tree to tree.  I reflected on Phil Erschler’s words as he welcomed the group to my first Elbrus climb.  He said, “The Seven Summits are really a cultural experience–some are very fine mountains to climb and some are just OK–but what unites them is an amazing opportunity to explore some amazing countries and cultures along the way.”  I totally agree. 

 

I’ve spoken before of how when I journey somewhere, the map is never the same again.  As I walked along the valley below the Snowy Range today, I lived this belief once again.  I will never look at the map of Australia the same way again.  The past week has been filled with so many amazing experiences that the map will serve as a trigger to replay them in my head.

 

In my next update, I will share some of those experiences but in the meantime, I will close by expressing my gratitude to Jen and Scott Quill for their wonderful hospitality in making the first half of our visit to Australia filled with connection, discovery, joy, and friendship.  We head for the ocean tomorrow to go from snow to sea, from climbing to beach walking.  We start flying for home on Tuesday.  I stop into Montreal for the Association of Experiential Education conference and Marian goes straight home.

 

Thanks for coming along on another climb. It’s always the best to have you along!

 

Cheers,

 

TA

 

 

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Happy Thanksgiving

Happy Thanksgiving to All,

 

I’m back sitting in my chair.  Last Sunday I sat in a different chair, beside my dad in his hospital room in Edmonton.  He gave us all quite a scare but is doing much better now.  I found being in St. John’s was too far away and lucked into an Aeroplan seat so I flew out for a quick visit.  Though I would have wished for a different occasion to be there, I enjoyed getting to spend time with my family.

 

Rayne and Xander presented me with my birthday present, a miniature prayer wheel.  I explained about the purpose of the prayer wheel and the Tibetan writing on the outside of it.  The mantra “OM MANI PADME HUM” spins round and round.  This mantra roughly transliterates as “the jewel of the lotus” and indicates both the object of and the path.  Xander was quite taken with the mantra and wanted to try to say it.  I found an audio file of a lama chanting it and he began to follow along… to all of our delights.

 

The next morning, my brother said that he and Shawn were awakened to the tones of the mantra as Xander crawled into bed with them.  Later that morning, I presented Xander with a CD with a 23-minute song of the mantra and I thought my brother was going to kill me.  I’d also included the song, “I Want to be your Personal Penguin” and that became an even bigger hit.  Once I returned home, I was having a video Skype call with the kids and Xander noticed my small plush giraffe, “Twiza.”  Twiza is one of the Zimbabwean names for giraffe.  Later that day, I heard from Shawn that Xander was teaching his “Twizzle” to meditate with the mantra!

 

On the Saturday night, Oma also gave us a scare.  Perhaps because of the stress of Dad’s hospitalization, Oma ended up in a different ER with chest pain.  As Mom and I drive to see her, I wondered how the evening would unfold.  When we arrived, she had good colour and the pain had eased some, so I relaxed a bit.  The docs wanted to really check her out so we were waiting for blood work and x-rays.  Despite the disorientation of the emergency room, Oma was in a very sweet mood.  She reached over the side rails of the bed and stroked my hair asking if I wouldn’t consider dating a nice young man. 

 

She wanted me to find a tall slim handsome professor to marry.  Oma gave me specific directions on what to do on date number one and date number two.  When she started to talk about her philosophy of sex, I flushed and marveled at the circumstances that had me chatting about such things with my 92-year-old grandmother.  Eventually she ‘fessed up that she wanted me to bring a nice man home so she could steal him away and she had grand plans for a double date at a fancy restaurant. 

 

At points were laughing so hard that our ER nurse came over to remind us tongue in cheek that this “was a solemn serious place” and we shouldn’t be laughing.”  We could tell by the look on her face that she was enjoying caring for Oma.  Shawn came in and relieved Mom and I so we could get some sleep and Oma was discharged the next morning with no known cause for the chest pain.

 

As per usual, I went out a bit too hard training a few weeks back.  I’ve been paying the price with various tendons and joints complaining since then.  I didn’t train while I was in Edmonton at all and since returning home, I have been taking it easy to give a bit more healing time.  I’m continuously reminding myself to train the body I have today, not the one I had last week, last month or last year.  It’s frustrating, of course, but it what it is.  I’ve been getting up really early to attend a boot camp session every morning at six and then come home and work with my Spiro Tiger.  It’s a respiratory training device that lets me practice breathing fast and deep without hyperventilating with the goal being to train the respiratory system so it doesn’t fatigue as quickly when working so hard at altitude.  Imagine blowing up a balloon about 20 times a minute and you get some of a picture of it.  It’s a funny sensation to be breathing hard without exercise.  I have always loved the quiet of early morning, appreciated the influence of the discipline of early awaking, and the joy of having two hours of training done by 8 am.

 

We hosted the launch of Everest 2010 on Thursday night.  It was a great evening and I gave a presentation that had some new elements in it and I always feel a bit on edge giving a new part for the first time.  It’s always a relief when folks laugh at the parts I want them to.  The weather was horrific and it was a Thursday evening before a long weekend so the turnout was a bit disappointing but I am so grateful to all who braved the elements to come out and meet the trekking team, donate to the Mountain of Learning Experiential Education Award, and buy a new Everest 2010 toque.  There were a few “lifers” in the crowd who’ve been to ever INCO event I’ve hosted and I really appreciated their support in being there once again.

 

The next few days will be crazy as I try to prep three conference presentations, train, and pack for a journey to the land down under.  Marian and I leave on Thursday for Australia.  We’re heading down for what will no doubt be too quick of a visit to my sixth continent and fifth seventh summit.  We’re going down to climb Mount Kosciuszko, the highest peak on Australia.  The snow is lingering this year and we’re taking snowshoes to make the climb to the 2229 metre summit.  We’ll be hosted by Jen Quill, a student from the first class of students I taught at Memorial.  I look forward to seeing her and hearing of her path from here to there.

 

I’m very thankful to you for coming along on this climbing journey of mine.  Your presence helps me transition between “being along and being together.”  Though it is I that must take every step in training and on the mountain, I do it knowing you are with me in spirit.  I am also thankful for my family and friends, for bountiful food and opportunities, and for health and well-being.  Have good week.

 

With gratitude,

 

TA

 

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Choosing the Mountain

Happy Autumn or Spring!

 

We’re having a delightful fall day here with warmth, sunshine, and the full possibilities that harvest season brings.  Sitting here in my favourite chair sipping on mint tea taken from our deck garden boxes, roasting sweet potatoes and apples for soup, and enjoying a blueberry muffin as a post workout snack.  Training is going well and I seem to be harvesting strength and endurance gains from the work planted thus far.  All feels right on such a lovely day!

 

It’s been a big few days with three presentations in four days, paying the contractor for the renovation work, and shipping off my next payment installment to Peak Freaks for my Everest expedition.  Once again, I feel like I’m on a diving board hoping that having taken the step into the abyss that there will be water to catch me softly at the end of the drop.

 

I’m pretty confident there is, because despite the challenges of choosing the enormous task of climbing Everest once again, I have the experience of the first attempt to both learn from and trust.  There was water last time.

 

As I was speaking to the Cancer Survivor Reception at the Placentia Relay for Life over this past weekend, I was struck by the word, “choice.”  I am choosing this path.  I am choosing to climb and to undertake the risk and suffering that that entails.  One survivor spoke at the reception saying, “I would have never chosen cancer but I am grateful for the lessons and life change it brought to me.”  There seems to be greater ease in accepting learning that comes from challenges we choose rather than those that are thrust upon us by circumstance, illness, or accident.  In speaking with several cancer survivors of late, I was moved by their grace in embracing what had been dealt to them.

 

A few weeks back I spoke at the Prostate Canada Cancer Network National Conference.  This group was the beneficiary of my fundraising efforts with my Elbrus climb and I truly wished my dad could have been there that night to be surrounded by such a strong community of supporters.  Thanks again to all who contributed to the PCCN in honour of “Elbrus–Climbing for my Dad.”  So many people came up afterward and wished my dad well–I wanted to bottle up all that warmth and care and send it to my dad in Edmonton.  As I say often, when we take on our own Everests, we have no idea of where the path will lead.

 

At the PCCN conference, I was seated with the conference chair and his wife.  She began the dinner by quizzing me as to where I had grown up, what school I had gone to, and finally for my longer name.  A smile came over her face about the same time I recognized her.  “Mrs Kennedy!” I exclaimed.  “What are you doing here?”

 

Mrs. Kennedy was my Grade Six teacher who I just adorned.  She taught me Language Arts and French during my Smurf collecting phase and through a time of rapid physical and emotional growth.  What a thrill to see her as I am so often filled with such gratitude for those who taught me during the long course of my education.  At one point, I snuck away to the box of books I brought to sell that evening and fished out a copy.  I wrote a short message thanking Donna (oh how hard it is for me to call her that) and presented it to her.  It was a moment I had dreamed of since having my book come out–to present a copy to one of the many teachers who taught me to write.  Almost every time I looked at Mrs. Kennedy during the presentation she was dabbing at her eyes and then it took everything in my power to contain the emotion that welled up in me seeing her well up.  It was an extra special evening because of her presence. 

 

The same week I also dropped by the Health Sciences Centre to visit a student of mine.  He is about half way through an arduous chemotherapy program and he’d expressed interest in reading my book.  Since it can sometimes be hard to find in bookstores these days, I offered to drop one off.  We talked a long time about his cancer and how he’s making his way through all of the emotions and challenges of fighting for his life.  I shared stories of tough times on some of the mountains I climbed knowing that nothing I have faced on a mountain comes close to his journey.  I met his mom during the same visit and was once again reminded how widely cancer throws its net and leaves no one uncaught.  I was thrilled to hear this week that a midway CAT scan was showing that the treatment appears to be working for him and I will continue to hold him and his family in my thoughts and prayers.

 

So, over these past weeks I have been radically reminded over and over again of the tenuous and precious nature of my/our existence and how lives, journeys, and families can change in mere moments or over shifting seasons.  I continue to try to be open to all the lessons that come to me for having chosen this path as well as being open to the lessons I haven’t chosen.

 

Take care and have a good week,

 

TA

 

PS…Thanks for spreading the word about the Oct. 8th 7:30 launch of Mountains of Learning at the INCO Theatre at MUN.

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Climbing Gros Morne

Greetings from Gros Morne,

Some dreams take longer to percolate than others. I had hoped to ascend Gros Morne as part of the Long Range Traverse in 1996 but there were no transmitters available so we were limited to camping at the end of Western Brook Pond. The seed was planted however, and it’s been waiting for the right conditions to finally germinate. Today in a downpour, that seed like many of the mushrooms I studied over the weekend, popped through the forest duff to see the light of day. My, my–I think that paragraph may have had a few too many metaphors but I’m happy to report that after 13 years of wanting and waiting, I finally stood atop the 806 metre iconographic summit of Newfoundland, Gros Morne.

I’d worried that I’d missed another season and thus climbing opportunity. I’m not certain where the summer went–perhaps to renovations and Russia and teaching. When making plans to attend a mushroom foray in Central Newfoundland, Marian and I realized we had a small window of opportunity to make a jaunt over to Rocky Harbour and make the climb. Thanks so much to Todd Wight at the Ocean View Hotel for providing a wonderful basecamp for the climb. Last February, when I spoke at the Hospitality Newfoundland and Labrador Tourism Summit in Corner Brook and Todd had heard that I was wanting to come out for a climb of Gros Morne, he said to be in touch when I was hoping to climb. I’d expressed embarrassment to him that I’d made an attempt on Everest but hadn’t climbed Gros Morne.

With little warning and two bus tours on his doorstep, Todd found room for us at his inn and it’s been such a delight. So often, because I climb at high altitude, climbing means suffering and deprivation. Instead, this climb, I was treated to a wonderful view looking out over the ocean, hot shower, and wonderfully soft sheets. All of which was even better to come “home” to after spending nearly six hours climbing in a downpour. We knew the weather forecast left much to be desired but since this was our only day to climb, we packed lots of layers and made the best of it. Our other option had been camping in the national park campground which would have been fine but what a gift to be treated to the most luxurious base camp I’ve ever climbed from–Thanks again Todd! (http://www.theoceanview.ca/)

I loved the ascent portion of the climb, gaining nearly 2500 feet in 2.5 hours. My knees and ankle complained about coming back down. Found myself fantasizing about the Grouse Grind in North Vancouver where you can gain 3000 feet and then take the gondola back down! I’m pleased with my two climb endurance sessions…they’ve showed me that I’m on track in beginning to ready my mind and body for the challenges ahead.

It’s time to send off a huge installment for the Everest climb next week. You can imagine my disappointment, where in the last week, six speaking engagements (that were going to make a significant contribution to the climbing fund) were cancelled. Add to that the house renos coming in a twice the initial estimate, and my low stress financial road to Everest has grown a few speed bumps. I’m reminding myself that, in the end, “it will all play out in the wash” (mixing a few more metaphors) and there is really no need for stress–just an invitation to get more creative, work a little harder, and stretch myself to ask for support in new venues and settings. As Oma says, “Whatever comes, comes.”

Speaking of Oma, I thought of her often this weekend as I attended the Newfoundland Mushroom Foray. A chance for lay and professional mycologists to get together to learn, seek, share, and talk mushrooms. Marian asked me to come along and I’m glad I went. I am by nature a very curious person and I love to learn new things. I went into the weekend with a history of picking mushrooms with my Oma and Opa when I was a kid but not knowing much about the fungal kingdom. Forty-eight hours in the presence of mushroom aficionados and presto, on the hike today, I was pointing out the Genus Aminita, Russula, and Cortinarius beneath many trees along the trail.

After the big day out in the rain and cold, my eyelids are drooping. Hope you’ve had a good week and I hope to see many of you out for the Launch of Everest 2010: Mountains of Learning on October 8th at the INCO Theatre at MUN at 7:30 pm. Tickets are available from me and at the door.

Thanks for coming along on another fine adventure,

TA

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Mountain of Learning

September is the month of starting again. In the Northern Hemisphere it’s a time of back to school with all the excitement and anxiety of a new school, new grade, new teacher. In the Southern Hemisphere, it’s a time of spring where the cold days of winter give way to the possibilities of summer. It’s also the month of my Oma’s birthday. She turned 92 on Wednesday.

In honour of Oma’s birthday, I made her special bacon wilted fresh garden salad and plum cake. I was working from memory on both as it had been years since I watched her make either. I did google “German plum cake” and got some guidance on the cake part of things. Later in the day, when I called Oma I told her that I’d baked plum cake. She wondered if I’d made the streusel topping for it. I said, “Oma, the recipe didn’t have streusel on it and I didn’t know how to make it.” She answered, “You don’t need a recipe, you just take soft butter and hand mix flour and sugar into it until it crumbles and falls apart.” “You make it sound so easy Oma,” I replied.

In talking to Oma, it’s clear that her short term memory loss is getting more pronounced but she was proud that she still remembered the important stuff like eating. When talking recipes, she rattled them off easily with an aplomb that comes from making them hundreds of times. This past Mother’s Day, I had a wonderful conversation with Oma. I was saying how amazing it was to still have my grandmother and she said, “Whatever comes, comes!” I said, “Did you ever think you would live to be 91?” She answered, “Oh no, I thought I would be dead at 60 since everyone in my family died early.”

I asked, “What do you think the secret of your long life is?” She thought a moment and replied, “I walked everywhere. And I never overeat. I eat my veggies. And have some sweets every now and again. I never hit the bottle much. Though schnapps are a good cure for an upset stomach and take everything as it comes.” This from my Oma who has been declaring to me since I was ten that she was dying, who can still out walk me, and who was famous for carrying heavy cement bags at the age of 70.

Oma has had a hard life filled with the challenges of beginning over and over again. She was orphaned at the age of six and had to go live with a new family. She survived World War II but lost her home and all belongings. After the war, she immigrated to Canada beginning her life over once again in a new country spending her first year in indentured servitude. Oma’s spent the last decade living without her dear husband with whom she shared life for over fifty years. If anyone in my life knows about starting again, starting over, picking up pieces and going forward, it is my Oma.

Despite all the hardships she’s faced, Oma is a delightful, generous, and loving person. Her voice brightens whenever I call her on the phone. She still grabs my cheeks, pulls me forward, kisses my forehead, and tells me how much she loves me. Oma has always loved reading and learning new things through books. Whenever I travel through Germany, I always try to bring her back German reading material.

I, too, am starting again this September. I am beginning the intense and dedicated training that will prepare me to return to Mount Everest. Climbing the world’s highest peak requires a mountain of inspiration. On my last two climbs, I’ve drawn motivation from my parents. On Pumori, I dedicated my efforts to my mom and her journey of living through breast cancer. On Elbrus, I thought often of my dad and his long battle with prostate cancer. For my second attempt on Everest, I am looking to my Oma, my grandmother Frida Loeffler, for the power, confidence, and strength to tackle such an enormous challenge again. In taking on Everest once more, I know much more clearly the sacrifice, the pain, the focus, and the financial realities of climbing the world’s highest mountain. It is that clear picture that makes it both harder and easier to choose to go back. It is in finding my way through the joys and sorrows of starting again that I will turn to my Oma for motivation for I know how often she has had to start again.

I am naming my Everest Expedition “Mountain of Learning.” As per usual, this name is imbued with multiple meanings. For me, the path of climbing mountains has been a deeply spiritual one. I look to learn from all parts of the expedition from training to approach to the actual climb. I am also an educator. A huge part of this journey has been sharing my learning from the mountains with students both young and old. I will continue with my youth outreach programs encouraging young people to be physically active, to have big dreams, and to read big books. I have heard it said that without reading, there can be no dreams so I plan to become an advocate for literacy and reading as well.

The life lessons on this path have been steep and have moved me to greater understandings of many aspects of my life. This path has also allowed me to give back to the community who supports me through some fundraising efforts. My aim in going back to Everest is to continue to seek learning and share it as it comes. In celebration of Oma’s life and love of learning and in fulfilling a decade’s old dream, I am establishing an award at Memorial University of Newfoundland. The award is called the Everest 2010 Mountain of Learning Experiential Education Award.

This endowed award will support students in pursuing experiential education opportunities in support of their degree programs. I know my education was greatly enhanced by attending Outward Bound, the National Outdoor Leadership School, and other such programs. I often hear of students wanting to seek out such opportunities but the cost stands as a barrier. My dream is that the award will reduce some of the obstacles to such experiences and inspire students to enrich their studies by getting outside the classroom.

The award will be funded through a combination of efforts. I am donating a percentage of each speaking engagement proceeds to the award. I am inviting those who are inspired by my second attempt on Everest to support this worthy cause (donations to the award will be tax deductible). Additionally, I will organize fund-raising events during the next eight months (and beyond) to raise the $11,500 necessary to endow the award. I’m hoping to have this base amount raised by the time I return from Mount Everest in June of 2010.

The first opportunity to support my efforts comes on October 8th. I am hosting a public presentation that will raise funds for both the award and for the trekking team that will accompany me to base camp. You are invited to come celebrate the start of a very exciting journey and to enjoy an evening of images, stories, and entertainment. Tickets are available from TA, the trekking team, and the door. The suggested donation for the ticket is $10-$20. The evening starts at 7:30 pm in the INCO Theatre at Memorial University of Newfoundland (room IIC 2001). I hope to see you there and please help spread the word.

As I mentioned above, intense training has begun. I did my first “climb endurance” session on Thursday where I hiked from Cape Spear to town. I covered the distance of 20 kilometres and 3400 feet of elevation gain in about 5 hours and slept very well that night. I am also running, weight training, and going to step aerobics class. Most importantly, I am stretching (something I am quite averse to) in hopes of keeping injuries at bay. The pace of life will continue to accelerate as training and work and fundraising demands build over the next months. I’m up for the challenge, I have you and Oma on my team, and I look forward to the mountain of learning that is coming my way.

Thanks for your continued support-hope to see you on October 8th and I’ll let you know as soon as there exists the ability to donate to the award online and otherwise.
Have a good week,

TA

PS. For those who have been tracking the renos, we’re on the summit ridge nearing the top but recognize there is still plenty of mountain to tackle in the descent (i.e. cleaning up and reclaiming the house).

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Momentum: Bodies in Motion

>Howdy,

Sitting here typing with blue stained finger tips having picked and processed 15 litres of blueberries. Marian, Nolan, and I had a fine time wondering through the Tilton Barrens on a dual mission of checking out an orienteering map and picking blueberries. When I looked at the upload of data from my new Garmin Forerunner 305, I noticed that blueberry picking got much more of our attention. The Garmin is a training tool that is a combination of heart rate monitor and GPS. It tracks how far, how fast, and how fast my heart beats. It is already giving me new windows into and understanding of my training. Using a heart rate monitor allows me to work out in a specific heart-rate zone to give my various energy systems an opportunity to grow stronger and more efficient.

By uploading the data to the Garmin Connects site, I can view the terrain I covered. If you’d like to see the berry-picking track, you can click here. http://bit.ly/4h103p If you zoom in (by pushing the plus button) you’ll see the little squiggles that I made when pursing the almighty blue antioxidant and breakfast staple. In just a few days of having it, I can see that I’m going to use the new toy (tool) when teaching students about backcountry navigation. It’s both invigorating and a challenge to keep current with all the technology that exists for outdoor recreation these days. What in the past may have been ten essentials may have grown to 15 or 20 now.

It was a bit of a post-partum week after Camp Glow, the valley after a peak experience. Fortunately, I knew that was likely so did my best to wait it out. The house renos made big leaps forward this week and I think the summit ridge may just be visible through the clouds ahead. I got a few long standing house projects done and that felt good.

Training is moving forward. My running distances are slowly growing and the ankle mostly does pretty well. I get some soreness and stiffness with it and on occasion, the other leg hurts in the same place for solidarity even though it’s never been injured (bodies are funny things).

I notice that training begets training. As I get back to a more disciplined approach, it gets easier to be disciplined. As my training schedule becomes more routine, I find it easier to get it done. As I begin to sense training and strength gains, I get excited to do more. Momentum is key. I see that more and more. I am a creature of momentum. I like to create it and use it to keep things moving forward.

If I (or a project) lose momentum, I notice how hard it is to pick it up again and get it going once more. Sometimes things go on the wayside for weeks, months or years, half done…just waiting for a hit of energy to see them through. With this insight of late, I’m more choosey. I don’t start things if I don’t have the time or energy to see them through. I try to not split my attention too many ways. I am simplifying my existence so that I can focus my momentum on nurturing the most critical tasks through to completion.

Inertia is hard to overcome…both personally and in training but once I have some of that momentum I’ve been talking about, I tend to remain in motion. I like to use the “body in motion” trick to manage all the things I need to pull off but also have learned that sometimes “a body must remain at rest.” My life as a science experiment!

Not feeling all that articulate today so I’ll sign off knowing that in almost seven short months to the day, I will be arriving in Kathmandu to start another Everest adventure.

Take care,

TA

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Everything I Ever Needed to Know about Climbing Everest, I Learned at Firefighter Camp

Hello to All,

After a full and intense week, it’s good to sit a spell and reflect on all the rich lessons I received this week. In the course of my climbing training, I’ve opted to pursue “Ring of Fire” challenges as I’ve called them; tasks and experiences that require me climbing outside my comfort zone into the heat of an uncomfortable place. I believe it’s critical for me to practice being uncomfortable since life at high altitude is so frequently filled with discomfort.

This week I stepped directed into some rings of fire, ones that were actually burning, in fact. Thanks to the Women Resource Development Committee and the Marine Institute, I had the great privilege of attending Camp Glow. Camp Glow (Group Learning for Outgoing Women http://www.mi.mun.ca/campglow/ ) is a five-day firefighting camp for women that introduces many aspects of firefighting. Our group ranged in age from 19-50 and was lead by Krista Parsons Butler and Mary Clarke.

We began the week learning to don bunker gear and finished it fighting a twenty-foot wall of flames. Along the way, each of us faced intense moments of fear invoked for some by being lowered over a 40 foot wall, searching a dark and smoke-filled building, or crawling through ever diminishing tunnels. Each woman had her own way of navigating the maze of emotions and thoughts that arose along the way. Some got quiet. Some cracked jokes. Some cheered loudly and others charged boldly forward.

My younger brother, Mike, is a career firefighter with the Edmonton Fire and Rescue Services. I have always harboured a secret dream to follow his footsteps into the firefighting profession. This week I got to spend five days in his boots and now have even more respect and appreciation of the work he does. Mike is on the high angle rescue team and it’s very evident that we have expressed our shared love of high places in different ways but I was glad to spend the week thinking so fondly of my younger bro. Seen together, we are often asked if we are twins. After this week, I would answer…twins separated at birth by six years. Thanks Mike for being my inspiration this week.

This morning, as I completed my long run, I reflected on the week and thought I might turn to Robert Fulghum (All I Really Need To Know I Learned In Kindergarten) for the format of how I might share the lessons of the week.

Everything I Ever Needed to Know about Climbing Everest, I Learned at Firefighter Camp.

All I really need to know about how to climb Everest and what to do and how to be I learned at Camp Glow. Wisdom was not at the top of the mountain, but there in the orange glow of team spirit and firelight.
These are the things I learned at fire school that I will take to the mountain:
• Check and recheck your gear because your life depends on it. Shakedown is key–make sure all the pieces work together.
• Practice doesn’t make perfect, instead it makes us faster and more confident. Time can be gained through fitness but also through putting all the pieces together more efficiently.
• Different fires are fought in different ways. Always use the right extinguisher and technique for the fire you are fighting. Using the wrong one can feed the fire and make the job of putting out much more difficult.
• Keep contact with the wall and your buddy–they are your safety system for getting out when you can’t see a thing.
• Stay low–fire and gases will go high. Seek respite in safe pockets.
• Fire and smoke cannot penetrate a water wall. Use one to protect yourself, your teammates, and your retreat.
• Always know and plan the ways you can get out of a fire and get out before it is too late.
• Don’t over-think it. Use the skills you’ve been taught to manage the intense feelings that arise when heading into a burning building.
• Our minds are our greatest tools and our greatest enemies. When donning bunker gear, just ignore how hot it is–just get the job done without paying attention to how miserable you are.
• Together we can achieve things we cannot on our own. Teammates are deep sources for inspiration, protection, perspiration, and shared joys and loses. Don’t ever enter a burning building without a buddy and a team behind you.

Everything I need to know for Everest is in there somewhere: The Golden Rule and teamwork and basic guidelines for coming home alive. Take any one of those items and extrapolate it into sophisticated climbing terms and it holds true and clear and firm. And it is still true, no matter how old we are, when we go out on a climb, it is best to rope up and stick together.

Thanks to all the sponsors of Camp Glow, the program volunteers, my teammates, and especially to the skilled instructors who guided us along the terrain of firefighting. I am sure there will be times next April and May, when I need a hit of inspiration that my mind will turn to the amazing week I spent learning firefighting (and climbing) at Camp Glow.

With gratitude,
TA

PS. The challenges of reno chaos continue…piles of stuff, coal dust, and building supplies block easy passage through the house. We think we finally have a bathroom vanity that will work with the unique space of our 100 year old bathroom and the drywall is back up…perhaps the summit ridge is in sight.

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Flash Rust


Howdy,

Catching a few minutes pause between coats of rust-inhibiting paint on our old claw foot tub. It got moved out on the deck on Friday and I’ve had intimate lessons in the concept of flash rust. Basically, one shouldn’t sand or grind a metal object one intends to paint until just before you paint it. If you sand early and it rains say, you get a “flash rust” lesson and you get to sand and grind and wire wheel more than you did the first time. It was a little like making a carry at high altitude, I got to cover the same ground over and over again.

But now, there are two coats of paint on the tub and it only sprinkled some rain to bring up our heart rates (the paint said-it shouldn’t have rain touch it for 24 hours) so the tub is doing a good imitation of an orange ghost or a rather misshapen pumpkin by hiding out under one of our camping tarps.

Speaking of camping, Marian and I have been “camping” in our house since Friday when they removed the main drainage stack and plumbing in the bathroom. No water, no sewer, no toilet. Frankly, it’s easier to camp outdoors where you can go off and find a fine spot to take care of business. Instead we are making well-timed visits to local restaurants and schlepping our camping pee bottles with us to work when we head there for a shower.

Now that all the demolition has been done (and of course, it was more extensive than anyone had imagined-when planning renos double the time and triple the budget), they can start putting everything back together again starting tomorrow with the hope of water by Wednesday. So as you can see, my week was consumed by renos…either waiting for deliveries, making upteen visits to building supply stores, consults with “da guys,” painting, sanding, cutting quarter-round (thank god Marian has more spatial intelligence than I or we might still be up in the new study…the new floor looks fab!), and collapsing our existence into every smaller and smaller spaces as the reno virus spread. Pockets of sanity in the house are harder to find-rather like taking a layover on a big expedition where a metaphoric bomb goes off and things explode from your backpack to be found, dried, and organized before the next big storm rolls through.

Apart from the urban adventure of renos, I’ve managed three runs this week. The ankle is doing well in taking on the new activity. It’s been great to back at it and I’ve reconnected with old running/training routes in the early morning. It reminds me that I do know how to train. I feel rather like the new cork floor that got laid down on the third floor this week, that I am laying a foundation of gentle discipline.

I’m reminding myself and relearning about how to make training happen in my new life as part of partnership. When I lived alone, I could train just about any time but now I’m sorting through how to fit training in around all the other joys of life like sharing a yummy breakfast on a sun-drenched deck amid the basil and oregano. I figure August is foundation time–training in a summer pace–amid plenty of flower-smelling and reno-projecting.

I thought I would make another invite for folks to join me on the trek into Everest base camp. There is a trek at the beginning of the expedition that meets in Kathmandu on March 30 and last about 2.5 weeks. There are four or five folks already signed up to trek in with me at that point. There is also another trek leaving May 1 that will hit base camp right about summit bid time…more info on these treks can be found on the Peak Freaks website: http://peakfreaks.com/ebc_trek.htm and I would be happy to answer any questions about the experience as well.

I also have a friend who is considering trekking in sometime in May who is going to work with my friend Raj to create a trek and she is looking for a traveling companion as well. If you’d like to trek in a very small group, let me know and I will patch the two of you together. Peak Freaks has been holding spots for friends of mine, which they will release soon so I wanted to put one last invite out to join us on the amazing journey to Everest! I’m touched that folks are going to great lengths to come along and I can’t wait to show them one of my favourite places in the world.

Finally, a climbing friend of mine, Alan Arnette has a mountain-sized ambition to climb the seven summits while raising a million dollars for Alzheimer’s research. He’s also hoping some folks will join him on some of the climbs. I’m thinking I will do my best to climb Mount Vinson with Alan in November of 2010 (a better length of time for raising the funds than this year I concluded). If you are thinking of climbing Kilimanjaro, this might be a great opportunity and great cause to support.

Please check out Alan’s project at http://www.alanarnette.com/alzheimer/memories7summits.php

Have a great week. Time to give the tub another coat of paint and then log my training hours.

TA

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Laying the Foundation

Happy 214th Day of the Year,

How did it get to be August? How did it get to be Sunday evening? It was another rich week of settling back into post-mountain life both looking back and looking ahead. It seems I am often draw to doing home renovations either before or after climbs and Elbrus seems to be no exception. In a moment of sanity, I put the brakes on before the climb so since getting home we have been busy making lots of decisions and getting supplies at hand for when the contractor’s ready to get to work everything will be in place. Working on the house feels a bit like core work–it sets the foundation and is the strength that everything else is built on. Having a home that works well supports me in the rest of my adventures.

It’s a bit like organizing an expedition and sorting through what supplies need to be and when, which tasks need to be done before the next, and deciding on a route and seeking local beta. Along with multiple trips to the building supply store, I also returned to a gentle schedule of physical activity. It was too light a load to be called training but is starting to set the base. I’m cognizant that my Everest climb is at the same moment, far off and just around the corner. I know from past experience that I can hold to a hard schedule of training for five to six months before I lose drive and focus.

I’m trying to layout my training plan so I peak at the right moment next April. I don’t want to start too soon and thereby peak too soon. I also am aware that I’m starting lower on the fitness scale than in the last several years because of this spring’s injury. My commitment is to keep listening to my body, to train as hard as I can, avoid injuries, and get enough rest. I won’t go to the mountain tired this time–that’s a promise I have made with myself. So, I’m going gently at the moment–testing out the discipline I’ll need to muster to get training in with everything else and reminding myself constantly not to go out too hard.

I know that as soon as I start training more seriously, the temptation will be to train very hard so I’m laying out the next eight months in phases that will have different purposes such as laying an aerobic foundation, developing strength, working on balance and technical skills, etc. I spent some of the weekend watching the second season of Everest: Beyond the Limit to start reminding myself of the huge challenge ahead and to look at the gear they were using. I enjoyed the show but could have lived without the TV dramatics and I don’t recommend watching the shows before bed (it makes sleeping a challenge).

I went for my first run in ages. I wanted to see if my ankle was ready. I did some intervals run up the front side of Signal Hill and stopped in to visit my “Summit and Safe Return” letterbox but unfortunately someone had removed the letterbox. I was saddened by its loss but still took some time to express gratitude for my safe return from Elbrus. The good news is that my ankle did OK with the run. I was tender afterward and made sure to do some icing of it and I’ll try again later today or tomorrow for another gentle foray.

In the end, after a week of mulling over the realities of finances, I don’t think I’ll be able to swing Mount Vinson this year. As much as it would be great to have Everest be number seven, I think the stress of having to have so much fundraising done so quickly, would be too stressful and too distracting from the my major project of the year Mount Everest. So unless I win the lottery (wish is quite impossible without buying a ticket) or find a big sponsor in the next week or so, I’ll be hoping to wind up my seven summits bid in 2010. I did finally luck into a points ticket for Australia so I will be heading there in October with Marian for a climb of Mount Kosciuszko (which I both need to learn how to say and spell)!!!

Hope your week was great and you’re having a good summer,

TA

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Mountains and Motorcycles

Happy Tely Ten Day to All,

On the last Sunday of every July, a growing number of people find their way to Paradise, Newfoundland and Labrador to walk, run, and roll their way ten miles (16 km) to the finish line beside Bannerman Park in St. John’s.  This year’s event drew nearly 2600 folks and I was one of them.  It was my fourth Tely in a row.  I ran my first and have walked them since.  This year my ankle wasn’t ready to run and the last two years I walked in support of friends doing the race for the first time.  I love that people come out and stand beside the course to cheer folks us.  Kids holding signs and making up cheers always move me to tears.  The fire halls put out their hoses to create a spray mist (though this year I’m not sure how many participants enjoyed their shower-it was quite cool).  The route passes all major motorcycle dealers in town.

As I walked along with Marian, I found myself daydreaming of motorcycles and mountains.  With Elbrus completed, I’ve noticed a reinvigoration of my desire to complete all seven summits.  Last year, I’d hoped to have the six besides Everest done before heading back to Nepal next April.  Then, with the recession, I thought I should let go of Vinson (the Antarctic peak) because I thought it would be too challenging to fundraise for two major peaks in such close proximity.  But since getting home last week, I find my mind/spirit/heart somewhat stuck on the idea of Vinson (rather like a dog to a bone kind of stuck).  I even tempted myself by finding out whether or not my preferred outfitter had space on any of their Vinson climbs.  They do.

So I find myself perched on a diving board once again.  The sensation is familiar.  I remember getting to a similar spot in 2006 when I got tired of saying to kids that I was going to Everest “if” the money came together and changed it to “when” I am going.  I mortgaged the house to do it and trusted that I would be able to repay the debt.  So once again, I’m poised at the edge and wondering if there is water in the pool below (I suspect there is but there is always a sense of taking pause). 

A friend is selling her motorcycle.  It’s very tempting to buy it though I haven’t solved the storage question and I’m not sure if I am taking on another big financial mountain if this is the best time to take on another vehicle.  It’s OK…there are many years to ride and many years to climb and I’m sure all will become clear as I get quiet enough to listen. 

I spent the week resting and making big reno decisions about the house (after 12 years-it’s finally time to have laundry at home)…it’s good to be home and I’m almost over my respiratory infection.  My attention is turning towards creating an overall training program for Everest and the eight months between now and then.  On Elbrus, I’d come up with the metaphor of prayer flags as a guide for training and I’ll unfold that for you over the coming weeks.  For now, I’ll keep it short this week and invite you to view Elbrus pictures at http://bit.ly/CK3qJ

Have a good week,

TA

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Elbrus…the rest of the story


Greetings from Moscow to All,

The Cliff Notes version…

I went to Russia and I climbed Mount Elbrus (5642 metres). It was a great climb and I learned a lot!

For those Paul Harvey fans, the rest of the story…

Elbrus is a quirky mountain. Truthfully I suspect, the only reason anyone climbs it, is that it is the tallest mountain in Europe and Russia. There are five routes up Elbrus but the vast majority of climbers begin their ascent in the village of Azou (2530 metres). Azou has the feel of “any ski town” with a variety of accommodations, small shops, and souvenirs slung along the one road that leads up the valley from Mineralnye Vody (the nearest city of any size). There’s one difference, however, this ski village is in a remote Russian valley on the border with Georgia so there is no polish like many ski resorts in North America. Instead, there is a sense of primitivism and possibility, paucity and practicality, purulence and petulance.

Elbrus’ twin peaks tower over the neighbouring Caucasus Mountains to the south. Their jagged toothed slopes cry out for climbers but for now, the access door to them is locked tight due to the dispute along the Georgian border. On one of our training hikes, we were warned not to wander past the border signs or we might be met with an unusual welcoming committee carrying large automatic weapons. Given that our team was Canadian (barring one United Kingdom import living in Seattle to whom we granted honourary Canadian status), we decided to give the Russian military a wide berth.

After four days of acclimatization hikes, it was time to head up the mountain. This moment is where Elbrus’ surrealistic nature as a mountaineering objective first comes into clear view. Most ascend from Azou via ski lift. Ski lifts, actually. I remember in 2006 that I was most frightened by this part of the climb. I was certain the creaking old overloaded gondola would detach from the cable and plummet us all to our death. Given it is now 2009, you know that didn’t happen. Three years later, we began our ascent on a state of the art German gondola that whisked us silently and steadily up the mountain invoking little or no fear. That is until I noticed the new gondola only went one-third of the way up to our destination.

For the middle part of the journey, we forewent modernism for another terrifying ride on a fifties-era flying rectangle that I prayed would hang onto its cable for one more ascent. Five heart-pounding minutes later, we emerged from the gondola station with one more conveyance to survive. A single sixties-era chairlift completed the ascent with our backpacks hanging from a hook on the main support arm of the chair. A flimsy safety bar kept us in our seats that were slightly askew from the weight of our packs. Liberated from this final airborne adventure, a short hike with backpacks on backs and food boxes in arms; we arrived at “The Barrels.”

Climbers wishing a “pure ascent” of Elbrus (or who can’t afford the lift ticket) walk up a steep gravel road to reach the same place (3800 metres). We had climbed to virtually the same elevation the day before so I didn’t feel too guilty catching a lift. The mid-slopes of Elbrus are where the mountain shows off as a ski area. Even in July, these mid slopes are covered in brightly coloured skiers and snowboarders. A ski lift, appearing to be a cross between a T-Bar and Pommel lift takes these snow sport aficionados up 100 metres to test their meddle in a terrain park. Other skiers and snowboarders are whisked higher to 4500 metres by “snow cat” (large snow machine with tank like tracks that can ascent steep snow slopes) to fly down past the ever-slow marching mountaineers attempting to acclimatize.

You mention Elbrus to anyone who has been here and they will ask about “The Barrels.” Each barrel sleeps six and is a cylinder about 3 metres wide by 3 metres high by 20 metres long. Constructed of steel, the barrels look like they may have once been culverts or piping of some kind, but were actually constructed as huts. With windows cut into the walls for light and some fine sixties paneling, these round and unique huts provided a comfortable home for the next four nights. The barrels, decorated like Russian flags, became a beacon for us each time we ventured up the mountain.

Though our move to the barrels was promised as a rest day, plans in Russia seemed to change more often than the weather. With our first lunch, deliciously prepared by our cook Olga, resting uncertainly in our bellies, Eugene declared it was time to climb up the mountain to further our acclimatization. A round of groans erupted in the group but we trusted his experience (this was to be his 69th ascent of Elbrus) and so went off to pack our backpacks. Marching in a tight line, resembling worker ants, we slowly exposed our bodies to ever thinning air. Our goal for the day was the next level of huts, the most notable of which is the “Diesel Hut”.

Originally, there was the Pruitt Hut situated at 4060 metres. The Germans had built it during World War Two as they hoped to ascent Elbrus as a symbolic gesture of their conquering of Europe. Neither happened and the Pruitt Hut was burned to the ground by the Russians. The Pruitt Hut had a diesel generator shed that was eventually turned into the “Diesel Hut” that sleeps fifty climbers today. We thought we would be moving up to the Diesel Hut after a few nights but for reasons that were never explained to us, the Barrels would be our home for our entire stay. In talking with other climbers, we did learn that the Barrels were much more comfortable place to stay.

After a rough night’s sleep for most given the jump in sleeping elevation from 2350 to 3800, we left early to climb to the top of the Pasckachov (sp?) Rocks (4700 metres) while the snow was still hard and the death star hadn’t started beaming its burning rays. Still new to this elevation, the climb was slow yet steady. The passage to the Diesel was easier but the terrain then steepened more dramatically and we started to time our breathing with our stepping while utilizing the rest step. The rest step involves momentarily soft locking the back leg to rest on the skeleton instead of the leg muscles. Depending on the steepness and elevation, that momentary rest can stretch from a second to a minute.

During this five-hour climb, we were passed by several snow cats carrying skiers and snowboarders up for a run. With their load dispatched, the cats would turn and head down to fetch another. We actually climbed up either on or beside the tracks left by the cat. Continuing our measured ascent, we were introduced to a new mountain hazard, the skiers and snowboarders. Some, seemingly on the losing edge of control, zoomed by us, barely missing. I am used to avalanches and rock fall but this was the first time, I truly feared other humans in the mountains.

We topped out above the rocks and were rewarded with a view of Europe’s second highest peak across the border in Georgia. Snacks and water on board, we now felt the full force of the sun beating down on our tender skin. The initial part of the descent from the rocks was very steep and so we stepped very mindfully through this section (on summit day a climber in another group broke his leg in this section). As soon as we emerged at the bottom of the rocks, skiers, snowboarders and snow cats bombarded us again. Did I mention that Elbrus is a quirky mountain?

The next day we finally enjoyed a rest day that was actually a rest day (our previous two “rest” days ended up having some training on them). I, for one, was glad for the rest because I had been battling a cold and allergies almost from the moment I arrived in Azou. Acclimatization hikes through reproducing grasses had me sneezing and clawing my eyes out. I developed a sore throat and feared that I was developing a cold. I knew that a cold can predispose one to high altitude pulmonary edema and I didn’t want another climb to be interrupted by illness. I pumped the fluids and vitamin C, imagined my immune system fighting the virus, and prayed to the universe that I would heal quickly enough.

I tried very hard not to be generous and keep the virus to myself. I didn’t want to infect anyone else on the team. When we ascended to the Barrels, I developed a nagging cough and the cold was fully leaking from my face through my nose. I keep drinking and hoping. Despite the copious amounts of liquid and mucous escaping from my being, I was pleased that the cold didn’t seem to be zapping my energy. I spent the rest day reading and napping and packing for our summit attempt that would begin early the next morning.

Much of the rest day was also spent in debate about using or not using a snow cat to return us to 4500 metres. The vast majority of climbers who use the Barrel huts use the snow cats to spare them 700 metres of climbing the ski slopes to the bottom of the Pasckachov Rocks. On my previous attempt of Elbrus in 2006, we stayed at a hut at 4200 metres so did not use the snow cats on either of our attempts. Coming back a second time, looking at the realities of an 1800 metre summit day from the Barrels, debating where a climb actually begins, gnashing through climbing ethics, and finally embracing Elbrus’ unique and strange climbing reality, I became willing to follow the guides’ advice and use the cat to cover ground we’d already climbed. In the end, all agreed (though some still harboured doubts).

If I were to come back to Elbrus a third time, I would choose to climb expedition style from the north thus avoiding the skier and snowboarder hazard, women dressed in leopard skill bikinis, crowds, ski lifts, and all things unmountainering-like that Elbrus presents on its south side.

We had an early supper and I was tucked into bed by 6:30 pm with I-Pod trying to cajole me into early sleep. The alarm was set for 2:30 am. It was a restless night for all and there was relief all around when the alarm finally meant we could rouse for the big day ahead. The morning brought wind after several days of calm; it would be a cold day to climb. Breakfast was at 3:00 am. It was the easiest pre-summit breakfast of all for me–no retching or nausea and I managed to get a fair amount down to fuel the first part of the climb. We jumped aboard our snow chariot at four and we whisked up to 4500 metres to where the steep climbing began. The moment we stepped off the cat we were pummeled by the wind. I was glad I dressed warmly (I most often fear being too warm than too cold). I shed my big parka and soon we were underway.

Eugene was at the lead setting the pace for our ant line. I was directly behind him and fell easily into the pace. I set my intention to climb safe and well and to dedicate my efforts to my dad and to Moh Hardin, one of my Buddhist teachers. I used a Buddhist mantra to start the day and then found the song, “Michael Row the Boat Ashore” occupied my mind for the early part of the climb. I was smiling, felt quite confident (though kept that under wraps because I didn’t want to piss off the mountain gods), and had a spring in my step (or at least as much spring as one can have after little sleep and at 4500 metres).

We wove our way up slope beside the Pasckachov rocks. When we faced west, the brisk wind blew directly into our faces and quickly chilled us. When we took the diagonal to the east, our backs to the wind, we warmed up. With relatively equal diagonals, I found that I guessed perfectly and my temperature was good, not too hot so I would sweat, and not to cold so I would risk frostbite. Above the rocks, the terrain steepened once more and our diagonal intervals became shorter as we traversed the slope more often. I had my eyes set on “The Traverse.” We’d seen it for days from the Barrels below. From that vantage point, it looked well beaten in and “flat.”

After a quick second break, I realized why expectations are so dangerous. The traverse was beaten in but it was not a flat surface at all. The 1.5 kilometre traverse clung tenuously to the slope and the climbing was uneven with most of the work falling to the downhill leg. This time there would be no relief to the East for two hours. Soon, my left calf and lower leg began to burn and scream out. I tried various foot positions, trying to duck walk or place my foot in a different orientation to the slope to get a bit of a break from the intense pressure on that foot.

This was the only moment of doubt for me on the summit day. Could I hold out? How bad would the burning get? Would my leg lose too much strength? In experiencing the burning, I thought of my dad and how the chemotherapy he has received for prostate cancer must have burned in his veins. I knew he had stuck it out so many times and I would do the same. I was in pain but I could manage it. Finally the traverse delivered us onto to the more level ground of the saddle between the two peaks and out of the wind.

We took our first substantial break of the morning after four hours of climbing to eat, drink, apply sunscreen, and mentally prepare for another step traverse of the west summit. I looked up at the line of climbers ahead of us and made another mental commitment to just keep putting one foot in front of another. Suddenly my left eye began to water and I felt intense pain. I quickly closed both eyes and wondered what was going on. I knew I had changed into dark glacier glasses as soon as the sun rose so it couldn’t be snow blindness. I couldn’t open my left eye. “Oh no,” I said, ” I am so close now.” I remembered that retinas can detach at high altitude but I’d thought that was more like a black curtain coming down. Tears from the watering flow down my cheek and I was glad no one could see my face. “Should I tell Eugene?” I asked myself. I kept eating and kept my eyes shut. I wondered if I could climb with one eye. Then the right one didn’t want to stay open. More watering. “Shit,” I thought, “I can’t risk my eyes.” Drank more water. Ate more food. All with my eyes closed. One more try. I opened the right one. It seemed better. I cautiously opened the left one. It seemed better. Both eyes open now. The watering stopped. I could see. I could keep climbing. Who knows what happened…perhaps a piece of snow, ice, or sand got in there and irritated it.

There were four of us now climbing with Eugene. The rest were behind with Oleg and Keith. The weather was starting to get worse again so it was time to be on the move. This traverse, thankfully, favoured the other leg so the left one got a break. Eugene warned us that we could not see the summit from the saddle that we must go up and around to it. After the long traverse, a steep section awaited and the clouds descended and the wind picked up as soon as we stepped out onto the summit ridge. We could only see four metres in front of ourselves; we were shrouded in white.

Along the summit ridge, I spontaneously began to think of my dad, Heinz. Then I thought of his dad, Alois. My brother, Mike. My uncle, Joe. I silently expressed gratitude to them for their love and support. I continued to think of significant men in my life: Colin, Mr. Walton, Mr. Boyko, Mr. Carmel, Moh, Mr. Hamilton, Leo, Jean-Marcel, Matt, Jasper,…mentors, teachers, friends. With each step, I thought of these and others and again thanked them for being there for me. The terrain eased and I took the last step onto the highest point in Europe at 10:33 am on July 13, 2009.

I was elated. I’d finally gotten here! The weather was awful and we struggled to get summit pictures. I had to work hard to keep my various flags and Velma from blowing away. I had to be quick because I had my mitts off and didn’t want my hands to freeze. There was no view just a group of folks sharing a high point of topography and the thrill of a summit reached. The climb was only half done and we steeled ourselves for the long descent. I felt glad that I am often a strong closer and followed Eugene down through the clouds. The saddle, again, was a place of respite. Fueling up for the 1200 metre descent to the barrels, the weather allowed me to make a brief call to the website to let folks know we had summitted.

Over the next hours, we climbed down. As we dropped in elevation, we met the snowmobilers. They were trying to high point on the mountain and came dangerously close to use as we re-crossed the epic traverse. Did I mention this mountain is quirky? The lower we got, the higher the temperature climbed and the sun began to bake us again. With limited water left, the climb down through porridge density snow seemed almost as tasking as climbing up. Finally at 2:40, we reached the Barrels, hot, bothered, dehydrated, and thrilled.

I immediately began to drink and get things hung up to dry. Olga’s soup never tasted so good. I managed after an hour or so to call in an update that we were back safe but knew I was too tired to convey the subtleness of the experience. The last climber on our team returned at 5:00 pm. Most napped until dinner at 9 pm but I wrote in my journal and wrote and wrote. Fifteen pages of transcription captured both the technical and emotional lessons that Elbrus had taught me. I am still reflecting on and digesting those lessons but they relate to confidence, climbing through and with illness/injury, Buddhism, and the intersection of courage, intention, and generosity. More on these in the future as I come to a deeper understanding of them.

The wonderful combination of high strung conveyances that brought us to the Barrel Huts were sidelined by a lack of electricity so we had to hoof it down the steep access roads carrying our big packs. The middle Pterodactyl-like gondola had the audacity to start up just as we reached its bottom station. We had power in the village just long enough to enjoy that amazing first shower off a mountain and then enjoyed dinner by candlelight. The power stayed out for another 12 hours fortunately I’d gotten the laptop and I-pod charged before we lost juice.

When I got down, I felt like I’d been run over by a rather large Russian military truck. I was running a slight fever, had an intensely sore throat, and a productive cough. Followed Dr. Eugene’s advice, I started some antibiotics to help kill off the little bugs I couldn’t manage on my own. I passed on the last day’s hiking to rest and recover. After nearly 18 hours of horizontal time, I’m beginning to feel human again.

I never climb alone. I always know a loving and caring community, that spans the globe, surrounds me. Thanks to all who made contributions to the Canadian Prostate Cancer Network. (It’s not to late-you can still donate).

• Thanks to my family–especially my dad–for your inspiration, love, and belief in me.

• Thanks as well to my partner, Marian, for her unwavering support of my climbing endeavours.

• Thanks to Karen, my best buddy, for always knowing the exact right words to say.

• To Earl for his generosity with his time to be my communications manager on this and many other climbs.

• Thanks to Deb and Wilma and the Applecore crew (and everyone else who came as well) for making my Signal Hill birthday bash a resounding training and awareness success.

• Thanks to Nadia and Natelle for being great training partners.

• Thanks to Susan, my Buddhist personal trainer, for the slogans I used on the climb to work with my mind.

• Thanks to Memorial University of Newfoundland for its support and specially for some of the folks in Allied Health Services who helped get my body ready given many injuries (Amy, Todd, and Tim).

• Thanks as well to Janine and Janice for help with my body as well.

• Thanks to Jeff Fryday at Tim Horton’s who went above and beyond to get me my traveling companion, Velma the Vanilla Dip. I finished two dreams that I started in 2006 (climbing Elbrus and taking a Vanilla Dip with me).

• Thanks to our guides, Keith, Oleg, and Eugene and to my teammates: Marie, Thomas, Chris, Peter, Jeff, Clement, and Isabel.

• Finally, thanks to all of you who follow along, think of me, pray for me, send messages of encouragement, and eagerly await each installment of the adventure. Your presence and participation in my climbs (and life) are a precious gift to me.

With gratitude,

TA

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Elbrus Updates

HI All,
 
Here is a composite of TA's most recent posts from Elbrus
 

Foot of the Mountain Elbrus #5

 

Hi this is TA calling in from the foot of Mount Elbrus in Russia.  We arrived here after a fairly long day of travel, up early to get to the airport, a couple hours of flying on Aeroflot, then another four hours of driving and trying to find one of our gangs luggage, we are hoping that it gets here soon for him.  We had a wonderful dinner, we are staying at a brand new ski lodge here.  Tomorrow we start our acclimatization walk/hike/climb.  It sounds like we are going to be down in the valley here for three or four nights and then we will start t moving up the mountain to the various huts.  So time to start drinking lots of water, getting well hydrated because we made a big jump we are at 2350 metres above sea level just around 7500 feet or so.  So far so good, the foots alright, the backs alright, holding their own.  Although, it was a bit iffy moving some of the bags suddenly I wished I had packed much lighter as I often do

 

So that’s me checking in here from the foot of Mount Elbrus

Talk to you again tomorrow

 

Take care

 

TA

 

 

Bathe of Endorphins Elbrus #6

 

Hi this is TA calling in from the village of Azau at the foot of Mount Elbrus.  We had our first acclimatization hike today, we went from above the village of Cheget, starting at an elevation of about 2100 metres and climbed to 3100 metres.  It was a good first climb since we just came up to 2350 yesterday.  I started quite strong; 3 hours in I started to fade a bit realizing that I probably started a little too fast.  So I was a bit humbled, but I knew I would be on this particular climb knowing that I was going in a little less fit then I usually do.  But, the foot did well, the back did well. I’m enjoying the bathe of endorphins at the moment and the excitement of seeing the twin peaks of Elbrus across the valley today the sun broke through and let us see our objective.  Tomorrow we are heading out to the observatory so we will get a view of the caucus.  Things are going well the groups all getting along great.  Enjoying our food here at the hotel it is quite unique or I should say its quite Russian.  Some of the folks are learning about that, but all in all I go by the motto he or she who eats the most and drinks the most water gets to the top of the mountain, so you know what I’m doing.  Heading into dinner now and then hopefully a really good rest for our second night at this elevation

 

Thanks so much for tuning in…take good care

 

Bye

 

TA

 

Stuart McLean at Altitude Elbrus #7

 

Hi this is TA calling in from the village of Azau again, at the foot of Mount Elbrus in Russia.  We had another great day of acclimatizing the weathers been spectacular, sunny, blue and warm, but not super hot, a nice cooling breeze seemed to come along whenever we needed it.  We went out on the slopes of the foothills of Mount Elbrus today heading towards an observatory that has quote on quote “free guard dogs”, i.e: you can’t actually get too close to the observatory or the guard dogs will get you.  Things went well, people are climbing well, we had a little bit of an easier pace today which makes it easier to find that rhythm that lets you go uphill for hours on end.  I’m a little afraid that I might be brewing a little bit of a cold so I’m trying to pump the fluids and get lots of rest.  I slept pretty darn well last night thanks to the vinyl café on my iPod it helps put me back to sleep when I wake up at altitude.  So all is going well, we have a couple more days of acclimatization down here and then we will start moving up the mountain.  Got another great view of the twin peaks of Mount Elbrus today as people were trying to imagine what it will be like to get up high.

 

That’s all there is to report from here today.

 

Thanks for following along and if any of you WOKies are out there and want send a few little encouraging words to the Sat phone I would love that.

 

Hope all is well…take good care.

 

Talk to you soon

 

TA

 

 

 

Finding Strength Elbrus #8

 

Hi this is TA calling in from Azau again, at the foot of Mount Elbrus.  We had another day of acclimatization; we went up the valley above the actual village of Elbrus and saw another approach that is sometimes used to climb the mountain.  A couple of us were salivating at the idea we could actually climb it right from the bottom in traditional mountaineering style, but that’s not on our particular agenda.  It was a bit of a low energy day for me, I didn’t sleep particularly well last night because of a severe soar throat, but I’m trying to drink lots.  I know that whatever I’m suffering now with a little cold at altitude is nothing compared to what my dad has had to endure in his struggle with prostate cancer.  I know that some folks know that I have been carrying Velma the doughnut with me, in some ways Velma is a bit of a joke about my love of vanilla dips, but its also a symbol to me of my dad because he was known for his generosity at work and was always the one bringing the doughnuts to the boys for coffee.  So I think of him every time I pull Velma out.  I’m thinking of you a lot dad, love you lots, your strength is bringing me forward.  I’m also carrying some prayer flags in support of my Buddhist teacher Mo Harden who has also started the journey with prostate cancer.  I’m hopefully going to get those prayer flags to the summit for him as well, and I think about him with each step I take up the mountain. 

 

We have another big acclimatization day tomorrow moving from here at about 2100 metres all the way up to 3600 metres to the old ice camp, which was the way they used to climb Elbrus.  Then we pack and get some lunch stuff together for our trip up to the barrel huts the next day.  We’ve had the most amazingly hot gorgeous weather we all have to make sure we get on sunscreen on because it has been very, very warm.  We have been blessed with cloud free skies and stunning views of the Caucasus.  Today we could look over and actually see some of the peaks that are on the other side of the boarder in Georgia.  We actually cant spend much time on that side at the moment because of the dispute.  So we are looking from afar at some pretty amazing snow covered peaks, sort of wanting to be there as well some times the groups been able to go over, if they are able to summit Elbrus early.  So that’s it from here.  Hope you all are doing well; send your healing thoughts my way.  I’m drinking lots of orange juice and trying to rest as much as I can.

 

Appreciate you all coming along for the journey

 

Take good care

 

Bye

 

TA

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River of Weddings: Elbrus Update #3

Happy Fourth of July to all my US Friends,

Another fine day in Moscow.  Six of us set out to enjoy a boat tour of the Moscow River.  Fortunately, the Metro stop for the boat trip was the same one I used yesterday so I got to feel like an expert riding the subway.  We decided on the on-off option so we could get off the boat and explore along the way.

Fifty bridges cross over the Moscow River and I think we passed under ten of them today including the one I crossed yesterday.  Now I have to start off with a confession.  Yesterday I lied.  Out of ignorance.  Or misremembering.  When I said I looked down river to the White House, today I realized I looked down river to the main building of Moscow University.  So please accept my apologies for leading you geographically astray.  I know this because Jeff was being a fine tour guide.

He had printed off route description for the boat tour and read it aloud for us as we passed the sights along the way.  We got off the boat at the university stop and climbed the hill instead of riding the chairlift up.  Yes, indeed there is a small ski hill on the banks of the river along with two all weather ski jumps.  We had very good timing all day including arriving at the top just in time to see a ski jumper fly through the air (see the pictures at http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=275198&id=509940550&l=3a3e5e55e5

We also posed for pictures and I introduced Velma to the team.  They were instantly taken to her and the story of how she came to be on the climb.  Folks were eager to help capture the various pictures throughout the day.  We saw at least 15 wedding parties and I thought the real coup of the day would have been Velma in a wedding party but I didn’t have the heart (or courage) to interrupt someone’s special day.

After the university, we went down river to Moscow’s oldest garden/park.  We wondered around the forest for a time and everyone remarked about the large quantity of green space and trees that are present around the city.  I’ll have another example to share with my outdoor recreation management class.  We then got back on the boat and passed by a unique sculpture/statue in the river.  Supposedly it was to be a monument to Christopher Columbus but we heard the US didn’t want to accept the gift.  The folks here decided instead to mount another great sea explorer’s head on Chris’ body and kept it for themselves.

We boated by the Kremlin and St. Basil’s and it was unique to see them from the water.  We passed the amazing glass building of the music conservatory and got off the boat.  We walked back to Red Square/Kremlin along a river canal and got to see parts of Moscow that are being redeveloped with the strength of capitalism here.  I hadn’t thought I’d see Red Square this time around but was glad that Velma got to see them.  She enjoyed taking some pictures.

By this time, we were getting to feel like old hands on the metro (amazing what one day and having a group surround you will do) and we made our way back in time for the group meeting.  Keith, our guide from BC, spent the day with those of us on the boat trip.  I got to learn a lot about the pressures that heli-ski guides face in trying to keep clients happy and safe and their employers happy as well.  He’s a very experienced all around mountain guide and I look forward to both learning from and climbing with him.  He’s climbed Elbrus three times before.

Marie, Jeff, Isabel and Jean-Francois are from Quebec.  Marie is a natural linguist and is light years ahead of the rest of us in her Russian speaking abilities.  At times today I was learning to speak Russian in French…that was a bit of a stretch for my linguo challenged brain.  Chris is from Calgary.  Thomas from Halifax and Peter from Seattle.  It’s great to have a small team this time around and I enjoyed spending the day out exploring with several of them.

We’re up early tomorrow to fly to Mineral Vode and then the four hour drive to Cheget.  It was great to stretch our legs some today and Monday we will begin our acclimatization hikes in the lower valley.  As I mentioned earlier, it’s likely this will be my last typed update and I’ll be switching to voice ones tomorrow (though you never know how much the internet may have spread in the last few years.)

Thanks for coming along and I’ll catch you next from Southern Russia,

Hope all is well with you,

TA

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Cyrillic Adventures: Elbrus Update #2

Hello from Moscow,

I probably knew just enough to get myself in trouble.  Not enough to know which station I was heading for or which one to transfer at or even if I needed to transfer.  Perhaps I should have done a little more research but then again, it all worked out okay.  I found the cats.  The theatre of cats…the Moscow Cat Theatre that has been entertaining the children of Moscow since 1893. 

I should probably begin at the beginning.  Whenever time allowed at home, I stole a few minutes to look at what I might do in Moscow with my extra days.  Having been here a few times before, I had seen all the regular sights: Red Square, The Kremlin, the view from Moscow University…so on one website, I searched for unusual attractions and two animal theatres popped up.  I was instantly captivated.  Perhaps it was because my dad is a huge animal lover and I knew he would love to watch such performances.  Or perhaps it was because I was cut from the same cloth as him.  I watched youtube videos on The Cat Theatre and knew I would try to get there.

After a hearty Russian buffet breakfast, I set out with a miniature map of the Moscow Metro system.  My driver the day before had pointed in the general vicinity of the subway station so I headed off in that direction.  On my first pass around the massive hotel grounds, I saw nothing that resembled a station, only currency exchanges that gave a better rate than I gotten the night before.  Not wanting to look lost or like a tourist, I veered left and entered the large tourist market.  All the doors were barred because the market is only open on weekends.  I ended up circling the entire complex (about a 2 km walk) before steeling myself for another attempt at finding the station.

See, the shy person, Me, doesn’t ask for directions at the best of time even when surrounded by Anglophones.  Here, where the signs are in Cyrillic and where English speakers are harder to find, I knew I would depend extra on my ability to pick up clues from the environment.  Nearing the commercial centre a second time, I noticed a large map of the hotel complex (it has four towers and can serve 3000 guests) that actually had a “You are Here” dot and showed where the metro station was.  Bingo.  I walked right to the subway station and watched people buy tickets at the wicket.  Fortunately I had looked up the fare, 22 roubles, so just walked up to the wicket, handed over a 50 rouble note and held up two fingers.  Instantly I had a ticket to ride, twice. 

I watched people hold their tickets over a certain dot on the entrance gate and did exactly what they did.  Wahoo.  I was in.  Two tracks.  I knew I was near the end of the line and there were three stops beyond the hotel.  I went to the track that had more station names.  I couldn’t read any of the station names since they were in Cyrillic.  I made a point to “drop some bread crumbs by making a special note of the station name where I started the grand adventure so I could get back home.  This had all happened so fast that I didn’t know what station I was heading for.  All I had was the small metro map on the back of my hotel key holder and I needed a magnifying glass to read it.  I had three possible destinations: The Cat Theatre, The Animal Theatre, or the Zoo.  I had English names for the stations I needed to find for all three but not the Cyrillic.

What to do?  What to do?  I decided to get off the blue line, on which I was riding, at one of the stations that had multiple lines, that way I figured, I could probably get to almost anywhere.  I got off at the intersection of the blue, brown, green and red line at a station whose name sounded a lot like the famous nightclub area of Moscow, the Arbat.  Turns out it was, though I’d not seen it, because after searching around a bit, I found a larger subway map which showed the station I wanted was three stops further down the blue line I’d just gotten off of.  I found my way back, deciphered which way I needed the train to go and thus which track to stand beside and voila, seconds later came another train.  This one, older than the first, didn’t have the fancy little light up line marker that indicated which station we were approaching.  I just had to count.  And watch.  And remember what the Cyrillic name was for the station I wanted.

Got it.  Which way out?  The instructions I had, said “Go out by the last train.”  Hmmm.  No way out there.  Alas, follow the masses.  Emerge into daylight and wonder which way now.  Spot a beautiful square (Moscow is famous for them) and take a few pictures (it was the Ensemble of the Square of Europe).  There was a bridge over the Moscow River from which I could see the Russian “White House” up river.  I’d driven past it on previous visits.  Velma and I took a few photos and then it was time to get down to finding the target of our mission, The Cat Theatre. 

I consulted the instructions once more and it said take a trolley or a bus or walk.  Since the first two options often require speaking to the driver, I elected the last.  My only difficulty was that there were two major streets, neither of which was identified.  I started down the one by the river and after a few kilometers started to get the intuitive hit that this wasn’t the one.  I turned around and backtracked to my last known location and then went beyond.  At one point, I thought I could read the big Cyrillic sign that said turn left for something so I did.  I decided right then, like on the mountain, that “the path was the goal” and that it was a lovely day for a walk. 

I kept walking and this major street had a few signs translated into English with some distance indicated.  There was hope.  At one point, I was certain I was heading in the right direction and on the right road.  I was.  I arrived at the Cat Theatre Box Office and it miraculously had a show beginning in an hour.  I managed to decipher that much from the posters on the wall and now it was time to try to buy a ticket.  With a few hand gestures, a bit of pointing, and some bad Russian on my part, I had a ticket.  For the next hour I watched many families come and do the same.  Grandmothers and their grand kids, moms and tots, aunts and nieces, and Velma and I.  I was one of the few unaccompanied adults.  The average age of the audience was about eight. 

The show was delightful.  Think of crossing clowns, cats and Cirque de Soliel and you’ll get some idea of the show.  Kids were dying of laughter at the clowns and the antics of the cats.  I was in stitches watching the whole thing and was glad my intuition led me there.  The journey home went pretty much with incident and I was even brave enough to enter the station a different way which meant joining the sea of humanity moving from track to track in a steady Friday afternoon at 6 pm kind of way.  We were each a corpuscle moving through the underground capillaries that led to the major arteries that housed the trains.  I got an old train again so I had to count stations.  I noticed that my brain was beginning to understand the muffled voices of the train conductors and I was starting to see meaningful patterns in the Cyrillic. 

I realized I had lots of travel tips for shy folks (probably for regular folks as well).  Things like subways are often easier than buses, grocery stores easier than corner stores, places with fixed prices are easier than bargaining…then again, those are mostly common sense.  As the day worn on, I started to remember tips and tricks acquired from many trips abroad: carry toilet paper wherever you go, put small bills in a handy pocket, keep bills grouped by denomination since they are all unfamiliar, take a card along with the hotel’s address and phone number, carry water and a snack, listen to your intuition on many levels, etc. etc.

I remembered my first big trip alone.  To Mexico City and I had to arrive three days ahead of the rest of the group.  I thought at first, speaking no Spanish, that I might spend the entire three days hiding in my room.  But instead, I made gentle forays into my new world.  I learned in small steps how to exchange currency, find a meal, and eventually get all over the city on the metro.  Today, 23 years later, I summon the same courage to learn the same things again in another large city.

Soon after arriving back at the hotel, I met my roommate for the trip Marie.  She’s from Montreal.  We hooked up with the rest of the team-everyone has arrived and only one has to deal with the trauma of finding lost luggage.  We are eight climbers (three women and five men) and our guide, Keith.  We have one more day to explore Moscow and then it’s off to southern Russia on the fifth.

There is likely little email access once we leave Moscow so enjoy these first few verbose updates as I’ll be switching to phoned in ones from the satellite phone in a few days.  Pictures from today’s adventures can be found at this link: http://bit.ly/FHWTU

Have a great weekend,

TA

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Out of the Bardo: Elbrus Update #1

Greetings from Moscow,

The bardo, in Tibetan, is the place between death and birth; a transition zone between the last existence and the next.  For me, in this life, the airplane is the nearest experience to the bardo I can imagine.  In the days leading up to a big climb, days are filling with the endless task of ticking items a perpetual to do list.  It’s as if every task that has been postponed over the past six months screams for closure before the artificial deadline of Air Canada Flight 693 to Toronto.

Sent off with plenty of hugs and good wishes, I clamber down the jet way into the never never land of the winged aluminum sausage that will magically, (in my humble opinion), transport me from here to there.  I settle gingerly down into my seat for my back is still tender accepting that this is “my home” for the next twenty-four hours or so.  Airplane time is the purest form of leisure for me.  I read.  I watch.  I daydream.  And if I surrender to the bardo, I often find that I arrive “too soon.” 

As I don’t have a TV, the seat back entertainment centres invoke the joy of Easter morning.  Brightly coloured, multi-media treats are hidden behind layered menus waiting to be found with the poke of a finger.  I plug into a world of drama, escape, and edutainment and we land in Toronto before I know it.  The moment has arrived.  I scamper towards the baggage claim, for just beyond its gates, lies a Tim Horton’s outlet.  It is here I am to meet Velma II.

Those who have been along on this amazing journey of mine for some time may remember back to the summer of 2006 where a newly minted passion for mountaineering and an uncommon fondness for Tim Horton’s Vanilla Dips first met.  I’d hoped to take a Vanilla Dip to the summit of Mount Elbrus.  I tried several methods of getting the donut ready for the rigorous journey.  I dried the first one out.  Then shellacked it.  Bad idea.  The shellac caused all the sprinkles to lose their colour and become amorous balls of white sugar.  For the second attempt, I let the Vanilla Dip dry and then stuck it in a round Ziploc container that fit perfectly.

In this end, this was a bad idea.  For when I opened the container one week hence, in the tiny mountain village of Terskol, my once proud Vanilla Dip was an oozing mess of decomposing sugar.  Not a pretty sight-quite traumatizing actually.  My dear friend and mentor, Brenda, had named the Vanilla Dip, Velma.  The original of the name Velma means “protector.”  Protection on a mountain, whether it comes from a lama blessed red cord or a multi-coloured sprinkle covered donut, always seems like a good idea to me.  In her rapidly deteriorated condition, Velma wasn’t going up any mountain.  Her dream of the seven summits coming very prematurely to an end before it began really.  I fed her to a stray dog.

Still traumatized from my first attempt at mountaineering with a donut, I hadn’t yet gained the courage to try again.  When I realized I was speaking to a conference of food service experts, a tiny seed of hope was planted in the fertile soil of my mind.  As I prepped my presentation, I decided to show the picture of Velma’s condition when we reached Terskol while making an impassioned plea for someone in the audience to share their expertise on how to prevent such a calamity from occurring again.  At the close of the presentation, my cries for help were answered by Jeff Fryday of Tim Horton’s.  He explained that at TDL Headquarters they have a museum.  In that museum were several well-preserved donuts.  Jeff said he would see if the museum curators could prepare a Vanilla Dip for the rigors of international travel and high altitude mountaineering.  Truthfully, I didn’t expect to hear back from him any time soon so you could imagine my surprise when I received an email saying that my supercharged donut was ready to go.

I was leaving for Moscow the next day so first we explored the possibilities of getting Velma II to Moscow via courier.  They could only promise delivery for the date we were leaving Moscow for Terskol.  I then realized that I was traveling through Toronto and suggested a rendezvous there.  Though it was the day before a holiday, Jeff made it happen and on Canada Day 2009, I met my carbohydrate companion for this year’s climb.  I walked up to the counter and said to the clerk, “I think you have a donut for me.”  I felt a little like I was a junior KGB agent.”

She asked me for my name.  When I replied, she showed me a card with my name on it, and then danced joyfully towards the back of the store to fetch Velma.  With a big grin, she handed off a Tim’s canister.  I almost ordered a Vanilla Dip to go but didn’t think Velma II would appreciate my cannibalism on our first date.  Just beyond the crowds, I stopped and lovingly eased Velma II out of her container and took a few pictures to immortalize the moment.  We then passed unceremoniously back through security and had fun exploring the Toronto airport.  You can see pictures at http://bit.ly/gzQtf

Hindsight being what it is, I wouldn’t have elected to watch the movie, “Taken” on the flight to Frankfurt.  I know I am often tentative when I first arrive out of the bardo into a new location.  My shyness, combined with past traumas, makes the first day or two higher on the anxiety scale until I get to know my way around and sort out how to get basic needs met.  The high intensity thriller about two girls taken while on vacation in Paris provided images I didn’t need floating around in my head.  After Taken, I switched to more banal stuff watching home and personal makeover shows in the W channel.

Time in Frankfurt passed quickly despite no Internet.  I was unwilling to pay $32 an hour for access and knew Moscow was just around the corner.  Flying over miles of green fields, the plane began its final descent.  Immigration was a breeze despite Velma not having a visa and I met up with my driver.  We emerged from the airport and he pointed out a polished black Lamborghini with its bat wing doors.  I always find my senses are tuned finely for reception when I a birthed from the airplane/airport bardo.  Pushing my luggage cart through the throngs of people is akin to passing through the birth canal and I am barraged with the sights and sounds of my new life.

We whizzed down the highway from the airport.  I looked to the right and was struck by the blazing white bark of stands of birch.  The black crust atop the paper smooth bark leapt towards my eyes.  The green canopy swung in beat to the pulsing grey clouds above.  The grassy sides of the highway were adorned with weathered women selling flats of strawberries.  Piles of bright red spheres interrupted the sea of green pocked by the gingham dresses of these industrious highway-based entrepreneurs.  I was transported back to Zimbabwe where such sights were the norm whenever I drove from Harare to Mutare.

As we closed in on Moscow, highway lanes multiplied providing a wider warp for the driver to deftly weave his car across.  No horns bleated as he executed delicate lane changes back and forth across the river of cars.  I was glad when he stopped texting and placed his full attention on the road.  I would hate to become another statistic.  An hour or so later, he dropped me at the massive hotel complex that would be my home for the next three days.  Just as I had expressed gratitude at the close of each of my three flights, I did the same for same delivery from the ride from the airport.  I often think the most dangerous part of the climb is getting there.

In the haze of exhausted post bardo existence, I checked in, showered, and walked outside a bit to give my body some clue as to time of day to begin overcoming the jet lag.  Procured some dinner, did some laundry, and soon there after dropped into a deep 11 hour sleep.  Waking this morning, I sampled the hotel buffet breakfast, half mournful that I couldn’t be more adventurous in my menu selections.  In the time before the climb, I will follow travel-eating guidelines to a fault to try to avoid any gastrointestinal challenges that could derail my climb.  I am aware, that different from sometimes, that I am here solely for the climb.  Not that I won’t enjoy poking about Moscow with Velma a bit this afternoon and tomorrow, but I am so eager to get back to Elbrus to see how things will unfold this time.

So I’ll close for now, gather some courage and head out to explore.  As a shy traveler, I use my keen sense of observation.  Where some would just ask for direction, I watch and decipher.  There is a bend in the Moscow River across from the hotel, I look forward to a walk along its banks, to enjoy the intense sensations of new existence before they fade, and to taking some fun Velma pictures.

Have a good day,

TA

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Off to Elbrus

Happy Saturday Night,

“It’s Saturday night and I don’t got nobody…I got some money because I just got paid, oh how I want someone to talk to…”  Writing a bit early this week because I’m home alone, laid up with a sore back, and want some company.  So I imagine you’re sitting on the other side of the table, we’ve got a luscious cup of tea and a spot of angel food cake to share and its time to chat about our weeks.

First off, thanks to everyone for making this birthday one of my best.  Special thanks go out to Marian, Nadia, Natelle, Wanda, and Joan for spending much of the afternoon on the hill with me.  Thanks as well to Heather, Charlotte, Stacey, Katie, Tina, Talisann and her niece for coming along for a few climbs.  Way big thanks to Wilma for the awesome cake and to Deb for bringing along her entire staff of Applecore Interactive.  The sea of blue shirts was terrific and made the last ascent go almost effortlessly.  I couldn’t wipe the grin off my face the whole time we shared cake at the top.  See the Applecore blog for some pictures: http://bit.ly/5wnok

Some near and dear friends gathered that night to share a few drinks and stories and I loved the whole day.  My dad called and left message that evening wishing me happy birthday and letting me know that they had gone ahead with his chemo treatment that day…something like his 43rd treatment or such.  He says all the staff at the chemo centre know him very well and appreciate his upbeat and humorous attitude towards it all.  My dad joked that I must be getting to be an old lady by now.  The funny thing is that I think my body is going through an aging spurt and various parts ache and pain in new and interesting ways every morning. 

I was pleased that throughout the ten ascents I was able to maintain the same pace.  Each ascent is about 1.6 kilometres and we were doing each one in just over 19 minutes.  I was carrying 35 pounds and we gained about 150 metres each time for a total of about 16 kilometres and 1500 metres of elevation gain.  Joan facilitated a speedy descent by driving us down the hill so we climbed steadily for nearly four hours.  I was surprised to be ahead of schedule so we actually walked down the ninth one to which my body doth protested.

Friday I was back on the hill training and to plant a birthday letterbox made by my dear friend Karen.  Karen called the letterbox, “To the Summit and Safe Return.”  This is a quote from Ed Viesters that he sets as his intention before each climb. (http://www.edviesturs.com/)   I liked the sentiment and adopted the practice as well.  Karen carved a beautiful stamp of Mount Everest for the letterbox and also send up a Vanilla Dip Hitchhiker Letterbox for me to plant as well.

Letterboxing is a great activity that combines art, treasure hunting and getting outside for some adventure.  Check out www.atlasquest.com for more information.  As I topped the hill for the second time that morning, my lower back was a bit edgy and has since progressed to down right cranky.  So I am stiff and sore and have been using ice and ibu through much of today.  It’s not unlike my body to have some injury/ouchie before a climb.  Something about making me continue to decide to go I guess.  So I’m hoping it settles quickly…fortunately if it doesn’t, I already have an appointment with my chiropractor on Tuesday for my foot.  Yes indeed, it does seem like my body is giving me a hard time these days. ☺

I presented at the Canadian College and University Food Service Association conference this morning.  I was surprised when I looked out in the audience and saw some folks wearing Tim Hortons clothing.  I hadn’t anticipated that though I probably should have.  I had great fun preparing for the presentation thinking of all the ways food is so critical to climbing…especially at high altitude.  I loved watching their faces as I began to profess my love for the Vanilla Dip and likening it to an edible prayer flag.  It was so fun.  The audience was appreciative and I’m 26 books closer to Everest!

There is a pile of gear and clothing ready to be tamed tomorrow morning after a training hike (if my body permits one).  I’ll go through my gear lists and start to package things up.  Cameras and sat phone are charging.  Good-byes are starting to be said and life takes on that sweet tender-heartedness of departure.  Seeing and noticing my own impermanence while at the same time planning for safe summit and return.  I plan to blog daily from Elbrus as the adventure unfolds so I hope you will follow along!

I leave on Canada Day arriving in the late afternoon of the 2nd in Moscow.  I have three nights there and then we head to Terskol via plane and van to begin acclimatizing.  We hope to be summitting around July 9-11.

I hope the summer is finding you well.  Drop me a line and let me know what you are up to.  Thanks again for all your wonderful birthday wishes and support of Wear Blue and Climb and the Canadian Prostate Cancer Network.  Donations can still be made throughout the climb. To donate to the Canadian Prostate Cancer Network,
please click on the following link: http://www.cpcn.org/honour_form.asp

Click the “In Honour” button and please fill out “Elbrus: Climbing for my Dad (Heinz Loeffler).”  Fill in your contact info and viola you’ve helped folks living with this awful disease.

Take good care and I’ll catch you from Moscow!

TA

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This Little Light of Mine

Happy Solstice,

As we were eating breakfast yesterday, we heard a siren.  And then another.  And another.  One more.  Hearing this much action on Duckworth drew me to the window and I saw four police cars round the corner.  Behind the black and whites came motorcycle after motorcycle.  They were riding in staggered two abreast formation and they kept coming.  And coming.  Big cruiser bikes.  Harleys.  A few dual purpose bikes.  Bikes.  Bikes.  Bikes.  They were riding for dads.  My dad.  All dads.  Hundreds of bikers riding to raise awareness and money for prostate cancer.  I stood by the window and shed a tear as each bike passed.

My dad rides his motorcycle when he can.  He’s offered to give it to me me as I am a newly minted Class Six driver (motorcycles).  It’s a 1986 Yamaha Midnight Maxim.  My dad and I always talked about riding motorcycles across Canada when I was a teenager.  Now that I have my license it’s finally a possibility but I’m not sure his health will allow a ride of that magnitude.  But that dream still crosses my mind from time to time and it came sharply back into view as I watched bike after bike head down Duckworth to begin the ride.

Besides thinking of my dad, I was tearing up at the sight of people coming together in community to make a difference in the world.  Using an activity they loved, these bikers were both having fun and making change.  Each one of us has the power to instigate or propagate or support change in the communities that surround us.  I had the sense yesterday that when we join together with others in service that that power is magnified, or indeed more likely, multiplied.  The power of this collectively can be witnessed every day if we open to its presence.

This is why I so appreciate your presence in my support community for my climbs.  I do truly believe that we can achieve in community that which we can’t alone.  When I first started training for Denali, I didn’t tell a soul because I wanted to back out with no shame if I decided I quit.  After a month of training in solitude, I knew I wanted to have people support me in both times of joy and difficulty.  I asked a few friends to form a cyber community of support of me and began to write them weekly with the lessons I was learning along the way.  The list grew over time and continues to grow.  I usually don’t plan ahead what I’m going to write, rather sit and wait for the words to emerge.

So today I sit and muse and share about community-you-me-us and the work/play we can do to make the world a better place.  By tapping into our passions and by supporting those who we love, we find our way.  Thanks again for coming along on the journey.

I had a good training week.  My hypoxia numbers are improving and the leg continues to heal.  I learned there are two other women on my Elbrus team and that’s always a gift as I’m often the solo woman.  The countdown has begun and the lists, at this point, are getting longer rather than shorter.  I finished teaching this week and have a mountain of grading to do before heading off. 

Plans for my birthday party are shaping up.  It seems like there may be a few more folks joining me on the hill than I expected because my party made the Scope’s List for the “How to Have the Best Freaking Newfoundland Summer.” (http://bit.ly/cvIj5).  I was a bit startled (to say the least) to see it there and found it interesting to be called the local adventurer and eccentric. 

I did find this quote I liked by Dame Edith Sitwell, “I am not eccentric. It's just that I am more alive than most people. I am an unpopular electric eel set in a pond of goldfish.”  I’m heading off to Value Village to see if I can find something in sky blue for Wednesday that’s befitting of an electric eel.  ☺

We’ll be climbing Signal Hill ten times on Wednesday June 24th starting at noon and the last ascent will likely start around 4:30.  I’m being joined by the staff of my long time sponsors, Applecore Interactive, and we’ll have birthday cake on top at 5:00 pm.  Come join me for one or more ascents up the hill.  If you’re coming by car, please park at the top and walk down to join us.  If you’re willing, we’ll use your car to run down the hill before starting back up.  In lieu of cards and gifts, please consider making a donation to the Canadian Prostate Cancer Network.  Here are the directions:

Here’s how you can support Elbrus: Climbing for my Dad.  Please click on the following link: http://www.cpcn.org/honour_form.asp   Click the “In Honour” button and please fill out “Elbrus: Climbing for my Dad (Heinz Loeffler).”  For the acknowledgment card, please out your contact info.  If you’ve already donated, thank you very much.  If you followed the directions I had previously sent out, please drop me an email, as you’ll need to submit your contact info to the CPCN so that they can send you a receipt.

Solstice occurred this morning at 05:45 UTC.  On this longest day of the year in the Northern Hemisphere, I invite you to spend a moment or two contemplating how you can bring some light into your community, a small ray of hope or a dazzling beam of possibility–we need it all!

Have a good week,

TA

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