Antarctica Countdown 4 Days and Counting: Layers upon Layers…

For today’s update, I thought I would take you through some of the specific gear items I’m taking to Antarctica along with some fun facts about them. In cold environments, layers are key. When it is super cold or we’re just sitting around or moving slow, we need lots of layers. When we’re climbing or shovelling, we’ll be producing lots of our own heat and so it’s critical that we be able to strip down to prevent sweating or to allow the sweat to evaporate. As I make my gear choices, I have to ensure that all the various layers can fit together and still be workable/usable/comfortable.

These are my LaSportive Olympic Mons…named for a mountain on Mars I believe. They are a triple layer boot as you can see by the one that is zipped down. There is an inner boot, outer boot, and then integrated gaiter/sole. They are very lightweight for the size and I’ve never had cold feet in them (knock on wood). The sole is so lightweight that they are best wore with crampons.

When in the tent, I’ll wear these expedition down booties from Mountain Equipment Co-op. The integrated gaiter keeps the snow out if I wear them around camp. I can also take the inner boots out of my big boots and slip these down booties in to wear around camp if I need to dry out my inner boots (dealing with body produced moisture, i.e. sweat is a constant job in cold environments-one needs to dry ones boots, gloves, socks, etc at the end of most days either over a stove or on our own bodies…I tend to tuck my socks over my shoulders at night to dry them).

These are a pair of my liner/fleece gloves. They are windproof and quite dextrous. The “snotty” looking stuff is seam grip which I like to put on fleece gloves to give them more grip. These can be wore alone or under my larger gloves/mitts.

These are my “workhorse” gloves. Black Diamond Guide Gloves. They come with an inner layer and outer layer with leather palm. This allows me to dry the inners easier than if there were one piece. I can also wear them separately if that makes sense. The leather palm is tough, long wearing, and grips well. Both my mitts and gloves have keepers on them so I don’t lose them to the wind if I take them off for some reason.

These are my mighty mitts. I’ve take the outers from my Outdoor Research Alti Mitts and mixed them with the inners of Black Diamond Mercury Mitts. As you’ll see in the next picture, the BD inners are lobster claws or trigger mitts which allow you to attempt fine motor tasks without taking the inner mitts off (i.e. if I separate the layers-they velcro together). I can bring my index finger into the main part to cuddle with the others if it gets cold.

Close up view on the Mercury Mitt inner with trigger finger.

This is my tried and true shell. Mountain Hardwear Gore-tex Pro-Shell. I love it’s two Napoleon pockets for keeping things handy as well as the ventilation zippers under the arm pits. Gore-tex doesn’t tend to breathe as well in the extreme cold so some polar travellers go with a nylon taffeta with inner condensation layer instead. For the relatively short length of my trip, I think I can make this staple of my clothing fleet work. (Thanks to the NLCU for their support of my Vinson climb).

This is my GSI slightly insulated food bowl and Light My Fire sporks. I use a “baby” Nalgene bottle as a mug in cold weather that way I can stick it in my coat and that way hot drinks warm me before and after I drink them.

And like everything else, my cup and bowl layer up and nest for more compact travel.

I have layers for my sleeping pad as well. I have a Thermarest Pro-lite for women as my main pad which I will insulate from the ground with two Evazote Bivy Pads. With two thin pads, I have lots of options: I can carry one on each side of my pack, I can use one to sit/stand on in camp, and I can double them up for sleeping. Evazote remains pliable in the super cold.

Last by not least…the pee gear. I’ve traded in the classic yellow nalgene for this beaut. It holds 1.5 litres, had a wide mouth which means I can use it without a funnel in the tent, and it has a wide base to prevent those very unfortunate accidents in the tent when one’s pee bottle tips before you get the top screwed on. The Freshette is a “female urinary redirection device” which lets me pee through a fly opening while wearing a harness. Most of my lower leg layers have “rainbow zippers” that facilitate such processes but sometimes the “pee whiz” is just the ticket and it lets me write my name in the snow with the best of them!

There you have it…if you click through any of the links I’ve provided, you can see that I am a huge fan of Mountain Equipment Co-op and that I get most of my gear and clothing through them. I got my membership in 1981 or so when I first joined the outdoor pursuits club at St. Mary High School in Edmonton. It was always a thrill to drive to Calgary to shop in person at the mecca of mountain gear. Thirty years later, they are still my first choice!

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Visual Soliloquy #391 At times, challenges hit with the force of a roaring, rushing waterfall. The true test, however, is…

At times, challenges hit with the force of a roaring, rushing waterfall. The true test, however, is whether you can put your arms up and enjoy the feel of the water.

~Aviva Kaufman

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Paying it Forward…The Liebster Blog Award

I have been nominated for the Liebster Blog Award thanks to Marjon at moment2smile.   It is great to have some new folks visit my blog, especially on the eve of an exciting climb. From what I understand, the idea behind the award is to spread connectivity and bring more traffic to interesting and cool blogs that have less then 200 followers.  It’s kinda like a blogger chain letter only better.  From poking around…I see that “Liebster” could mean “beloved” or “favorite” in German…and indeed, I remember Oma calling me her little “liebchen” meaning sweetheart or dear.

Here’s the idea as I understand it:

1. Thank the giver and link back to the blogger who gave it to you.
2. Reveal your top five picks and let them know by leaving a comment on their blog.
3. Copy and paste the award on your blog.
4. Hope that the people you’ve sent the award to forward it to their five favourite bloggers and keep it going!

I googled around and have enjoyed reading people’s interpretation of the award and have liked getting to know some new blogs as a result…so I’ve decided to join in and share some of my favourite blogs…I don’t know how many subscribers they have-only that I enjoy reading them.

In no specific order, I am awarding the Liebster Blog Award to…(drum roll please)…

Team Shimmy

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Antarctica Countdown 5 Days and Counting: Thankful for a Snow Day

The snow came without wind this time so the house did not shimmy or shutter like it often does during a winter storm. Perhaps this one, the first one of the season, want to creep in unannounced. When I first awoke, I wondered if the forecasts had been wrong. I turned over and used my Ipod to check my email. “Bonanza,” I thought as I read the first one, “Memorial University is closed for the morning, update at 11.” Instead of doing what most would on a snow day, rolling over and going back to sleep, I got instantly excited and wondered what fun I could have with the first snow day of the year.

I got of bed quietly and came down to the kitchen. There was a blanket of snow on the deck and a consistent skiff of an inch of the white stuff on the slack line. Instantly I knew. I’d never done a slack line in the snow so today would be the day and a sequel to last March’s snow day video would have to be created. I quickly dressed, donned helmet and helmet cam, and had lots of fun trying to manage staying on the very slippery line (much slipperier than usual). The snow on all the deck railings made for multiple shot angles as I tried to tell the visual story of slack lining in the snow. As usual, the sequel didn’t quite have the punch of the original but it was fun to do something creative before getting onto the business of the day–packaging and packing.

I spent the morning reveling in not being able to go anywhere in the city and just getting to stay home. I packaged up all the penguin T-shirts that need to get mailed and Marian and I had fun trying to fashion mailing envelopes out of berry bags and other assorted heavy plastic bags (we were trying to recycle as well as save people on shipping costs). It was great fun addressing all the packages and imagine the recipients opening what I see as a “tremendous bundle of joy.” I wore my tangerine one all day!

When we heard that the university would remain closed for the day, we jumped with excitement and thanked all the children (and adults) who went to bed last night with their pajamas on backwards and spoons under their pillows (local lore in how you invite a snow day). The gift of a day. The gift of quiet unscheduled togetherness in the midst of a flurry of preparations for Antarctica. The afternoon drew us down to packing central and beginning the process of putting like items into stuff sacks and dealing with some of the small fussy tasks such as checking the med and first aid kits. It’s still too early to stuff the wonderful fluffy down things into stuff sacks but the time is drawing nearer. You should never store down sleeping bags or parkas compressed (it stifles their lofting capacity) so when a trip has long travel times to the start, I try not to stuff them until as late as possible.

There is an RMI team climbing Mount Vinson currently (I’ve been calling them Team One as I’ve posted their updates to my Facebook page) and I’ve been tracking their progress with intense interest, of course. There is a Canadian woman from Ottawa on that team Christine Dube and she’s been reporting from Mount Vinson. Here’s what she called in today:

Christine Dube – 7 Summits Adventure
“Possible Summit on Saturday!!

Just chatted with Christine via Satellite phone, all is well but the going is extremely tough given the extreme cold, the pack weight of gear and the sled theyre pulling behind them. She has said this is one of the most difficult climbs and at least one person has already turned around.

A “warm” day is -15c while at night in the tent it can typically be -25c, so she sleeps in her down suit and inside her sleeping bag.

However shes in great spirits says hello to all, and thanks for the well wishes from all on Facebook (she was informed of the Facebook activity) and is looking forward to a possible summit attempt on Saturday after a rest day, providing the weather cooperates.

They expect a summit temperature of -35c , so as they summit they wont be sticking around to make phone calls. She’ll call somewhere down the mountain in a warmer position to let us know that she’s made it.”

When I read of the temperatures on the summit, the likes of which I had heard before, I shivered and wondered if I had enough warm clothes in my pile. Marian remembered a blog post from the First Ascent team last January where one of the women (Caroline George) made a video of what she packed for her Antarctica expedition. We watched it a few times tonight and then read through the rest of the team’s Antarctica posts and looked at all the pictures to see what they were wearing. It seems when the sun is out, it’s cold but manageable but if you are in the shade, the wind comes up, or you are up high, then Antarctica’s true cold nature shows through.

Reading through the rest of the entries, I was very moved by Jake Norton‘s post after he climbed Mount Vinson in which he explored why he climbs (which, of course, resonated with some of the reasons I choose to climb and put myself into cold, uncomfortable places far from home):

“The great climber and author Greg Child once wrote: “Somewhere between the bottom of the climb and the top is the answer to the question of why we climb.”

Climbing, and the reason we do it, is an elusive thing. There is no straighforward, definitive answer, and I’ve struggled with it since I began climbing in 1986. I guess to some extent it’s relative to each person. For some, it may be the overall challenge. Others are motivated perhaps by a specific summit or group thereof. To each his or her own.

For me, as I labored under a heavy pack today, dragging a laden sled behind me, the question arose as it often does: Why am I doing this? Why am I thousands of miles from my children, my wife, my home and my friends, struggling in tough conditions with aching feet and a sunburned nose? Why?

It was as if the mountain heard my query. As I moved, a gentle breeze brought a layer of Antarctic ice fog up the glacial valley. The sun above was muted, and a giant, irridescent sundog formed above me. The frigid snow crunched beneath my feet, and massive walls of rock, snow, and ice rose in every direction. It was absolutely silent, and yet deafening in its majesty.

Yes, this is why I climb. These moments of solitude that are wholly grounding, humbling, and innately inspiring. They rarely come to me on top of a mountain, and are never predictable. But, they always come, they always inspire, and they never cease to make all the pain, cold, suffering, and challenge worth it.”

And on that note, it’s back to packing…

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Visual Soliloquy #390 The turning point in the process of growing up is when you discover the core of strength within you that survives all hurt…

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Snow Day II

Five days out from departure for Antarctica and you get a snow day…improvise!  Building on last year’s snow day video, here’s the sequel!

Here’s the original:

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Antarctica Countdown 6 Days and Counting: Goldilocks Says I’m “Tire-d”

When your day starts with a view like this, even if you are dragging a 45 pound tire behind you, it’s going to be a good one. Natelle and I were out pre-sunrise on “The Hill” making sure I got at least one more big training day in before I go next Tuesday. There was some black ice, a light dusting of salt and then a tiny skiff of snow on the upper part of the hill-each reducing the coefficient of friction in their own way. Natelle’s pulling rope broke just below the top on round one and she just about fell on her face when the weight she was pulling released in an instant. Not about to leave on a climb, she wisely left it on the side of the road to teach it a lesson about falling off (and to reap the joys of just walking up the Signal Hill like a “regular” person).

As I pulled, I noticed it was more my legs screaming than my lungs. I could tell that I was fitter–the training is paying off. The legs are still adjusting to the bigger pack weight so should be fine when we are carrying loads in two batches. After my second pull, I headed home for breakfast and then had Marian drop me off in Logy Bay for another go at the East Coast Trail. I took six minutes off my hiking time and so again, good evidence that I’m getting fitter. As I hike, my mind is often busy and today I thought of Goldilocks.

Goldilocks tries out the Three Bears’ beds and chairs and porridge bowls until she finds the one that’s just right. Today I was thinking that in preparation for my early climbs that I often trained too hard too early and would often peak a month or two before the climb and would then have to hang on for dear life and walk the narrow line of overtraining. For some climbs, when other parts of life got priority, I thought perhaps I’d undertrained–not putting in enough time ahead of time and then suffering a bunch on the climb. Today I thought…maybe I’m Goldilocks and got this one “Just Right”…putting in enough time and effort but not too much and peaking right on schedule. Time will tell…All I know at the moment is that I’m pleasantly tired and weather whipped after a 5 hour training morning! Bring on the mountain.

 

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Visual Soliloquy #389 Problems are messages…

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Antarctica Countdown 7 Days and Counting: A Tale of Two Piles

Short and sweet…

Pile One: Wonderfully joyous piles of gorgeous Xander T-shirts awaiting sorting and delivery (23 T-shirts still need homes-email me for sizes and colours still available.)

Pile Two: Wonderfully joyous piles of warm and useful Antarctic gear awaiting final sorting and packing.

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Visual Soliloquy #388 Don’t cry when the sun is gone, because the tears won’t let you see the stars…

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Visual Soliloquy #387 Perhaps all the dragons of our lives are princesses who are only waiting to see us once beautiful and brave…

Perhaps all the dragons of our lives are princesses who are only waiting to see us once beautiful and brave.

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Antarctica Countdown 8 Days and Counting: The Lunch Bunch

Let me begin by offering congratulations to three key folks in my life. First, a big wahoo goes out to Xander for scoring a goal in the top left corner from the point! Way seriously cool. Second, a big shout-out to Rayne for an awesome weekend at her swim meet. Her hard work in practice is paying off with improved times in most of her events and she is closing in on some “B” times. Third, a huge congrats goes out to Michelle Young ( a friend who has pulled tires up Signal Hill with me) for finished her first full Ironman in Arizona yesterday in stellar form. All three provide great inspiration to me as they work hard towards their goals! Yahoo to all three.

Marian and I made big progress last night with my food packing. There were lots of decisions to be made and we even turned to a spreadsheet to help. The aim was to come out of the process with 10 pounds of snack/lunch food that had just the right mix of sweet, salty, and sour flavours, that had a good mix of carbs, proteins, and fat, that could be eaten while frozen and that would seem appealing to eat at altitude. 10 pounds is 4540 grams. I can import meat or dairy to Chile so the first decision was to buy 908 grams of cheese and sausage/jerky in Chile once I arrive.

This left 3632 grams of yummies to be packed in YYT. We tried various combinations decided to end up with a split of 50 percent sweet, 5 percent sour, and 45 percent savoury.
We did some trial and error to get a sense of how the various weights of items looked in a bag as a serving. We started with the savoury items and decided to pack them separately since they all had very strong flavours such as honey mustard, BBQ, and salt and pepper and would likely overpower everything else if mixed in one “feed” bag. This resulted in nine salty bags to each be eaten over two days. Next we turned to the sweet and sour (and not so overpowering salty) and made decisions about how much of each to include in the final tally (you can see why the spreadsheet was handy).

Once the items were in the bowls, it was time to make up 17 different mixes of items-one for each lunch. One thing I’ve learned about mountain food is that I like variety. Each bag had one of the nut items, some form of chocolate, and some sour in various amounts. On Denali, after 32 days of snack food for lunches, I grew pretty tired of having the snack bag look the same every day so here I aimed to have lots of choice to fill various cravings. Each bad weighs 155 grams and it’s one per day.

Here is the final products of our efforts. You can see the savoury bags along the bottom, then my summit day items (clif shots, clif mojo bars, and clif bloks), my just in case I get stuck on the ice for Christmas item, my cough drops (hopefully not needed) and then the 17 mixed “feed” bags. So a lunch will consist of half a savoury bag, a full feed bag, and some cheese/sausage. Lunch will be taken in short breaks/snacks throughout the day. The calories in each collection will range from 1500-2200 calories or so depending on the mix. There are lots of fat calories in that they are calorie dense and have a good calorie to weight ratio and in the cold, it’s not a big deal to eat so much fat.

During a skype call last night with Rayne and Xander, I held up the bags and they noticed the large amount of candy in the bags. I explained how sometimes candy can be a good energy source. Xander wanted to know where the vegetables were…I said I wouldn’t be eating too many of those but I did have dried fruit in the mixes. They thought it sounded like a great idea to become polar explorers if it meant you got to eat candy for lunch.

The first RMI team has made it to the ice and I am following their expedition with close attention.  You can sign up for email alerts on the RMI website if you’d like to receive an email every time they/we post an update.  Those same updates will make it to my website once I am underway (Thanks Marian).  Dave Hahn will blog most days he is able from the climb.

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Visual Soliloquy #386 The greatest mistake you can make in life is to be continually fearing you will make one…

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Antarctica Countdown 9 Days and Counting: Close Call and Getting Closer

I had a close call with injury during a Friday night hockey league game. I lost an edge and crashed hard into the boards and onto the ice. The player checking me also went down and landed right on top of me. What wind I had left after the first fall was pumped vigorously out of my lungs. Fortunately, other than the momentary lack of oxygen, nothing seemed to hurt too much. Everyone at the rink held their breath when I first went down then Paula skated over and said “Get up misses…you have a mountain to climb.”

As I usually do what I am told, I got up and I was OK. I was a bit rattled but OK. I played my second game that night very gently and wasn’t sure how sore I’d be yesterday but other than a few spots, I feel like I got off easily, like when the police officer lets you go with a warning rather than a ticket. There comes a time before every expedition that I start to worry about getting hurt. It usually comes around the 30 day countdown mark when there really isn’t time anymore to heal up a serious injury. That concern showed up for this expedition right on schedule and I’ve been playing smart, heads up hockey and hiking with clear intention/attention since then. I don’t go into corners hard, watch for races to the puck, and generally try to keep the passion for the puck in check.

People will ask, “Why not stop playing?” For me, hockey is an integral part of my life and my training. I don’t feel like I want to bubble-wrap my life. In almost 20 years of playing, injuries have been far and few between. So I’ll play my last game on the day before I get on the plane. Accidents can happen anywhere and I’m thankful that I got off easy Friday night.

I had a good training week and I look forward wrapping up all the pieces of gear, training, and mental preparation over the next 9 days. I know it will be intense and rushed and there will be great relief and anticipation in stepping onto the plane and having some transition time to ready myself for the challenges ahead. The weather cleared and let some teams and individual adventurers get to the ice over the past few days and that’s good news.

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Visual Soliloquy #385 You can’t wring your hands and roll up your sleeves at the same time…

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Visual Soliloquy #384 I come into the peace of wild things who do not tax their lives with forethought of grief…

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Antarctica Countdown 11 Days and Counting: From Soup to Nuts

When we first designing my webpage, we were throwing around various URL’s to use; the first we used was “TA climbs Denali.” We then went onto “Adventures that Move.” Eventually, we settled on the now ubiquitous “taloeffler.com.” The one that we joked about using was TA’sNuts.com. Now with three trays of spiced nuts cooling, I’m ready to start my gourmet nut business. As I mentioned yesterday, I have to provide all my own snacks and lunch food for the Vinson climb so I’m trying to come up with a menu of foods that are tasty, calorie laden, can be eaten easily in gloves, and can be eaten while frozen.

Nuts are often chosen as an expedition food. This is because they keep for long periods of time, are mostly fat, tasty, and easy to eat. Fat is an efficient expedition food because it packs over twice the calories per gram than carbs or protein (9 calories per gram compared to 4). They are also compact, hard to crush, and can be garnished with a wide variety of flavours. I made a classic “brown spiced” pecans…cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg and sugar. I then did a savoury version with cumin and chili powder. The last batch was a sweet/savoury mix with cinnamon, cumin, steak spice, mesquite, and sugar. Each different, each yummy…

I’ve been hearing lots of reports of bad weather and expedition delays down in Antarctica. After over a week of waiting, Felicity Aston is finally on her way to Antarctica today. I think the first RMI team hopes to be able to fly over tomorrow. It’s easy enough to get wrapped up in lots of what ifs. As Oma says, “What comes, comes.” There is nothing to do but visualize good weather and hope for the same. And in the meantime, time to go bag up the nuts and then hit the trail.

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Antarctica Countdown 12 Days and Counting: My New Rayne Coat

A package arrived from RMI (my Vinson outfitter) yesterday…”Wahoo a prezzie from the outfitter,” I exclaimed. Even before I opened it, I said “I hope it’s not pink.” Marian just about split a gut when I pulled out a very pink, very fancy fleece jacket. “Oh no!” I moaned. I haven’t wore pink since 2008 and “Pink Outside the Box” campaign for the Canadian Breast Cancer Foundation just before my Pumori climb. During that week, people said I looked good in pink. The new jacket has that wonderful soft wearable hug of new fleece and it’s wind pro…so I started wearing it around the house. Marian grinned every time she looked over.

I was talking to Mike and Shawn last night and told them of my new jacket. Shawn laughed out loud and then said, “It’s karma, Rayne loves pink and loves you…so that’s why they sent you a pink jacket. It’s your new Rayne coat!” I smiled deeply to my soul and knew Shawn was right. Wearing the coat would make me think of Rayne and so it became fun to wear it when I thought of it that way. So I wore it to present at a conference tonight and I even told the story of my new Rayne coat! I don’t know yet if it will go to the ice as it doesn’t have a hood…and I love this weight of layer to have a hood and I already have a Newfoundland and Labrador Credit Union sponsor badge sewn on my favourite blue slipstream jacket!

I did a big hit of shopping today and got most of my lunch/snack food bought that I will bring from here. I’ll have to buy cheese, sausage, jerky, and crackers down there. We have to provide our own lunch food so it’s nice we can customize it to our personal likes and preferences. I’m evaluating each item for weight, calorie density, and eatability in it’s frozen state. I also got sunsreen, lip balm, new journal, and all those kinds of expedition things!

I also saw the proof of the Xander Penguin T-shirt today-it looked fabulous-the order will be ready for me to pick up tomorrow or Monday…a serious double wahoo with hot fudge and whipped cream on top! Can’t wait to start the album of pictures of folks wearing their new T-shirts and especially those that can wear both T-shirts and toques together! I’ll post a picture as soon as I have a T-shirt in hand…there are about 25 shirts that will be looking for homes (they are excellent holiday presents) 🙂

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Visual Soliloquy #383 I keep the telephone of my mind open to peace, harmony, health, love and abundance. Then, whenever doubt, anxiety or fear try to call me, they keep getting a busy signal…

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Antarctica Countdown 13 Days and Counting: See One, Ride One, Pull One

When I used to work at summer camp, we joked that in our first seasons, we often had to operate out of the mantra of “See One, Do One, Teach One.” This morning was Bobble-Head Ted’s first session training at tire pulling on Signal Hill. When climbing Mount Vinson, the move from Base Camp to Camp One involves pulling sleds loaded with expedition gear along the Branscomb Glacier. So, early this morning, Bobble-Head Ted to his training mantra of “One, Ride One, Pull One!
See One:
For the first tire pull of the morning, Bobble-Head Ted had the prime “seat” and responsibility for tire watching. He monitored progress and was on high alert in case the tire flipped over. I said to Natelle, “It’s like having eyes in the back of my head.”


Ride One:
On the second go up the hill, Bobble-Head Ted insisted on a new view, this time, riding on the tire. He demonstrated the excellent core fitness for balance and stability on the tire.

Pull One:
Bobble-Head Ted made a valiant effort but this tire-pulling task was a little out of scale. He promised to train hard this week and come back next week with new strength and a pint-sized tire.

It was a delightful morning to be out, the fresh breeze kept us cool and refreshed, and the lovely morning light eased us into the day. It’s much more fun pulling in the morning now that daylight savings time is over (though the 4:30 pm darkness is harder to take). I look forward to 24 hours of light while in Antarctica (what a treat in the middle of our darkest season). Congrats to Natelle who pulled her tire the full height of Signal Hill this morning-you gotta love a friend who gets out of bed early for no good reason other than supporting her whacky mountaineering friend. Less than two weeks to departure. Wow! Getting excited now. Butterflies are multiplying. All’s well.

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Visual Soliloquy #382 Nerves and butterflies are fine – they’re a physical sign that you’re mentally ready and eager…

Nerves and butterflies are fine – they’re a physical sign that you’re mentally ready and eager.  You have to get the butterflies to fly in formation, that’s the trick.
~Steve Bull

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Visual Soliloquy #381 Do not anticipate trouble or worry about what may never happen. Keep in the sunlight…

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Visual Soliloquy #380 Worry never robs tomorrow of its sorrow, it only saps today of its joy…

Worry never robs tomorrow of its sorrow, it only saps today of its joy. –Leo Buscaglia

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Antarctica Countdown 15 Days and Counting: Super-size The Wisdom of No Escape

“There is a story of a woman running away from tigers. She runs and runs and the tigers are getting closer and closer. When she comes to the edge of a cliff, she sees some vines there, so she climbs down and holds on to the vines. Looking down, she sees that there are tigers below her as well. She then notices that a mouse is gnawing away at the vine to which she is clinging. She also sees a beautiful little bunch of strawberries close to her, growing out of a clump of grass. She looks up and she looks down. She looks at the mouse. Then she just takes a strawberry, puts it in her mouth, and enjoys it thoroughly. Tigers above, tigers below. This is actually the predicament that we are always in, in terms of our birth and death. Each moment is just what it is. It might be the only moment of our life; it might be the only strawberry we’ll ever eat. We could get depressed about it, or we could finally appreciate it and delight in the preciousness of every single moment of our life.”
Pema Chödrön, The Wisdom of No Escape: How to love yourself and your world

I super-sized my training pack this morning…moving from my 40 pound day pack to a 50 pound expedition pack. It was so much nicer to carry a heavy load in and I started to think about the modifications I want to make to the pack before heading out. The joy of working at an outdoor education program is that I can pack one for training and then have one that’s actually going on the expedition…such luxury!

I hiked from Logy Bay to Signal Hill this morning in three hours on the Sugarloaf Path of the East Coast Trail. The increase of ten pounds in my pack felt fine though by the end of the hike, my legs began to protest a wee bit on the last flight of steep stairs leading up Signal Hill. Marian dropped me off in Logy Bay.

I was using the “Wisdom of No Escape” in that when Marian drops me off like that there is no choice but to walk back to town. Sometimes I’ll go out with to a local hill (Quidi Vidi, Signal Hill or Fort Amherst) and have a specific number of times I’ll go up and down. What I notice is that my mind will begin to tug away at a loose string on my “sweater of discipline” and soon it gets tempting to stop after two instead of three. Being dropped off with no escape takes right care of that and I just hike until I run out of trail and often add a hill at the end.

Antarctica will definitely be a place of no escape…likely the most remote spot on earth I will have had the privilege to be (and the responsibility) to be…weather can shut down flights to and from the ice for a week at a time. So once again I turn to practicing…practicing staying uncomfortable, practicing delighting in the strawberry despite the tigers, practicing running towards the biting dog…perhaps I will pack a Pema book for the ice and I realized this morning that it’s time to ask my Buddhist Personal Trainer for Lojong Slogans for this climb.

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Visual Soliloquy #379 If things go wrong, don’t go with them…

If things go wrong, don’t go with them. –Roger Babson

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Visual Soliloquy #378 Today is the tomorrow we worried about yesterday…

Today is the tomorrow we worried about yesterday. ~Author Unknown

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Antarctica Countdown 17 Days and Counting: Zipper Pulls and High Gear Anxiety

Marian and I spent the day “pulling gear”. We have a gear room organized by season and expedition so today was the day to delve in and begin the process of making hundreds of decisions of what gear and clothing options will get to go to Antarctica and which will stay home. WIll I chose the minus 30 sleeping bag or the minus 40 sleeping bag? For now-the minus 30 as I’m taking the down suit, and as seen above, the down suit fits inside the minus 30 bag. The minus 40 bag is much heavier because way back when I had to get it in the long version (they don’t pump out many minus 40 bags a year). The extra room is great for everything that has to go into the bag with you at night…water bottles, boot liners, gloves, mitts, socks, snacks…but since I’ll be carrying it up the hill, I’m electing for the lighter bag.

The process is both exciting and anxiety producing. Those of you who’ve followed my adventures before know that I often get into the head space of “If I can only pick the exact right combo of gear, everything will be fine” which makes making gear decisions seem all the more loaded. Couple that with travel to Antarctica and you can see a recipe for a quick emergency trip to The Outfitters today and a MEC order tonight. In reality, I’m in fine shape and the pile of climbing gear above has been tamed into piles of like items with all decisions made. I’ve also got piles of clothing with a few choices left to me made…my Black Diamond Guide Gloves or my Hestra Lobster Mitts…my Alti Mitts already got the call up.

It was great to have company and another brain to run gear decisions by. Marian helps me to not take too little (as would be my default) or too much. She also helped fix some stuff and she wields a sewing needle with great skill. I must have tied 20 zipper pulls onto various zippers (where do they go?). Zipper pulls help out a bunch when one is wearing big gloves or mitts. Here we are trying various balaclava options/face mask options out…Already I know I’m going to miss Marian so much while on the ice and wish I could sneak her into my duffel bag. It might be a bit hard to get the bag through all the airports/flights as I’m only allowed one 50 pound bag (excess baggage costs $30 per pound!!!)

I always like to start this part of the process early as it makes it more relaxed and gives time to check out “small” details such as which lower body layering system works best with a pee funnel and climbing harness or which cup and bowl nest the best for the least amount of weight? Different trips have demanded different answers to these such questions and now I get to make my best guesses on what will work best in the super cold/super dry/windy Antarctic. I’m trying a mix of polar training, Denali, and Everest thinking/planning/decisions. So despite all the anxiety today, good decisions got made, gear got piled up, and now the challenge will be to live without it during training in the next two weeks (we washed everything to free it from soil, seeds, and plant bits as required for Antarctica).

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Antarctica Countdown 18 Days and Counting: Working the Lists

Had a great training hike out Flat Rock way today. Hiked a new piece of the East Coast Trail with Marian. The wind was blowing a near gale and I thought it was perfect training weather for Antarctica. I know it can be very windy down there. Started the final stage of preparations today by printing out my gear lists, travel itineraries, and final info packet. Tomorrow, (while it’s supposed to be raining), I’ll start the process of laying out my gear and starting to fiddle, pack, adjust, try on, knot prussiks, plan my lunch food, etc.

I’m climbing with Rainier Mountaineering with Dave Hahn as the lead guide. I shared a base camp with Dave on Everest in 2007 and he passed me in 2010 on my way to Camp Three (pictured above)

This is Dave’s Bio from the Rainier Mountaineering website:

“Dave Hahn has reached the summit of Mount Everest thirteen times (out of 17 tries), more than any American climber. He has guided climbers to the summit of Mount Rainier more than 250 times, and has led 27 attempts on Denali, reaching the summit 20 times. Dave has reached the Vinson Massif in Antarctica summit 27 times. In 2006 Dave led a team of professional athletes on an expedition to ski Mount Everest. In 1999 Dave participated in the expedition that discovered and identified the remains of explorer George Mallory, who died trying to scale Everest in 1924. Dave has been on seven expeditions to the island of South Georgia and has led trekkers overland on the “Shackleton Traverse”, which in 2004 won Outside Magazine’s Trip of the Year Award. He has participated in many visits by ship to the Antarctic Peninsula. Dave shot high-altitude video for the PBS NOVA program Lost on Everest, and guided a film crew into the Ellsworth Mountains of Antarctica on a journey of discovery that resulted in the Emmy-Award-winning film, Mountains of Ice.”

I look forward to benefitting from Dave’s tremendous expertise and learning all I can from him. I also know he is a great scrabble player so if we get stuck waiting for good weather, I know we’ll be able to occupy many hours!

A few folks have asked me about our itinerary so here it is…

The climb usually takes a minimum of 14 days, but weather related delays often occur and, therefore, the schedule has to remain flexible and is very subject to change

November 29: Depart Newfoundland and Canada.

November 30: Flap Wings Hard all Day. Arrive in Santiago, Chile and connect with flights to Punta Arenas, Chile (PUQ)

Dec 1: We will have our first team meeting and orientation once all climbers have arrived. Night spent at Hotel Diego de Almagro in Punta Arenas.

Dec 2: Today we make our final preparations for the flight to Union Glacier with an equipment check, weighing baggage, etc. During the afternoon we will have time to explore the interesting port city of Punta Arenas. Night spent at our Hotel Diego de Almagro in Punta Arenas.

Dec 3: Flight to Union Glacier, Antarctica. This flight is approximately five hours long, crossing Drake Passage and the Antarctic Circle before landing on a blue ice runway. If the weather allows we will continue on via Twin Otter aircraft to Vinson Basecamp located at 7,200′ on the Branscomb Glacier. The flight is approximately 1 1/2 hours.

Dec 4: The climb begins! We carry food and fuel to Camp 1 located at 9,100′, make our cache and descend to Vinson Basecamp for the night.

Dec 5: Rest and acclimatization day.

Dec 6: We break camp, climbing back to Camp 1 with our remaining gear and establish our second camp at 9,100′.

Dec 7: Weather and health permitting we carry to High Camp located in the saddle between Mt. Vinson and Mt. Shinn at 12,400′. We cache gear at High Camp and descend to Camp 1 for the night.

Dec 8: Rest and acclimatization at Camp 1.

Dec 9: Move to High Camp.

Dec 10: Summit Day! On the climb from High Camp to the top of Mt. Vinson we gain 3,600′. From the 16,067′ summit we have unparalleled views of the Ellsworth Range, the Ronne Ice Shelf and seemingly the whole continent of Antarctica. We spend the night again at high camp.

Dec 11: Break camp and descend to Vinson Basecamp. Night spent at Basecamp.

Dec 12 to 18: Days thirteen through nineteen are contingency days should we experience delays due to weather or other unforeseen events. Days of delay are a normal part of Antarctic travel and maybe used on the mountain or for travel.

Dec 19: Return flight to Union Glacier and connect with the transport plane for our return flight to Punta Arenas. Night spent at the hotel at Punta Arenas.

Dec 21: Fly from Punta Arenas to Santiago and connect with flights to the Canada.

Dec 22: Arrive home in Newfoundland (here’s hoping because we know how tight flights are onto the island come Christmas time). Looking forward to a grand welcome home party at the airport!

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Visual Soliloquy #377 One’s real life is often the life that one does not lead…

One’s real life is often the life that one does not lead. ~Oscar Wilde

 

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Antarctica Countdown 19 Days and Counting: On Remembrance

Remembrance Day and my parent’s anniversary come in quick succession.  Whenever the Newfoundland Regiment Band played during the Ceremony of Remembrance at Memorial University today, tears flowed down my cheek.  I tried to wipe them off discretely because I was sitting next to my boss but eventually I just let them go. Memorial University of Newfoundland was founded as a living memorial to all the Newfoundland soldiers who gave the ultimate sacrifice in World War I.  Each year, the university gathers to pause in remembrance in a ceremony that touches me deeply every time.

As the salt water slid silently down to my jaw and down onto my chest, I was grieving for all the families who’d lost loved ones then and today.  I cried for the suffering that war inflicts on those who fight it and those who survive it.  I was heartbroken for my mom who, on Monday, will face a second wedding anniversary without my dad.  I was sad because I’ll likely be landing on Antarctica on the day my dad died and I have been missed him terribly the last while.

I always wanted to climb Mount Vinson in my dad’s honour.  I do appreciate a good play in words and having climbed Pumori, Everest’s Daughter, in my mom’s honour, I wanted to climb Mount Vin-son in my dad’s.  As my dad’s illness progressed, I began to wonder if my dad would survive prostate cancer long enough for me to raise the money to get to Antarctica.  As the fundraising was taking longer than I hoped, I took stock and decided to climb Mount Elbrus in July of 2009 for my dad instead of Vinson so I could share the climb with him.

It’s November, the month of Remembrance in Canada.  It’s the month of my parents’ wedding anniversary, and it’s also Movember.  The month in Canada where men grow mustaches to raise awareness and funds for prostate cancer research.  My brother is one of those men.  My sister-in-law, Shawn recently sent out an email about Mike’s Movember:

I say it’s sadly that time of year again for several reasons. Sadly, I must endure 30 days of looking at this thing called the “mo”…the “crumb catcher”…the “soup strainer”…the “stache”. Sadly, I am reminded that every “mo bro” who has committed to growing a moustache this November is helping to raise awareness for this deadly disease. Sadly, on average 70 Canadian men will be diagnosed with prostate cancer every day and 11 Canadian men will die from prostate cancer every day…Sadly like so many others I knew one of those men.

Mike’s dad Heinz passed away from prostate cancer (he was 67)…so did his dad, Alois…and his brother, Joseph.

So even though I am not a moustache enthusiast, I’m proud that Mike is sporting a new hairy growth this month. I am hopeful that he, among all the other “mo’s” will be seen as a walking billboard for prostate cancer prevention. As a result of the work we can do…I hope by the time my son is able to grow his own stache, he won’t have to…

So I will provide a link if you wish to make a contribution on behalf of Mike’s “mo”. In Canada, 86 percent of funds raised for Movember will go directly to Prostate Cancer Canada programs. Ten percent cover fundraising costs, two percent go to men’s health education and another two percent cover admin fees. Just click on the link below and you can donate directly on-line.

Other ways to give your support that are just as appreciated…Grow a Mo!..or just tell

Mike how good he looks in his!

http://ca.movember.com/mospace/1132216

My brother will be shaving off his “mo” just as I start flying south to begin the climb.  If you are so inclined, please support my brother’s efforts using the link above.

I didn’t get to dedicate my climb of Mount Vinson to my dad as I’d wanted to…but I will keep him very close in my thoughts, heart, and mind as I do.  I’ll also be thinking of the rest of my family as we make our way through another tough November and December-a time of the year where we all miss Heinz so much.

Mom and Dad Celebrating their Anniversary. (Dad often sported a Mo)
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Visual Soliloquy #376 Happiness makes up in height for what it lacks in length…

Happiness makes up in height for what it lacks in length. ~Robert Frost

 

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Visual Soliloquy #375 You must start with a positive attitude or you will surely end without one…

 

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Antarctica Countdown 20 Days and Counting: Back on the Ice

20 days! Less than three weeks! My goodness. I’m back from my trip south (which was a delightful diversion) and am now just where I thought I’d be…slightly panicked at the three week mark with growing twinges of excitement mixed in. The departure date is within sight with no other trips in the mix. The countdown is very real and the butterflies are mounting and the to do list seems longer than I want it to be.

On the other hand, it’s all familiar. The feelings, sensations, and thoughts often show up at this stage. I’ve felt them all before. They are part of the process and serve to more finely focus my attention on the coming challenge. I’m likening it to being back on the ice.

My fall hockey season has been slow to get going this year since one of the arenas was having trouble getting it’s ice down. I returned to a full slate of hockey (six games a week) but the first game back felt awkward and I felt clumsy. The second game was more fluid and the third started to feel really good (and I could finally catch a pass again). I’m thinking (and hoping) that as preparations continue, I will drop back into that “I can do this prep with ease” place. I still, really at times, am in disbelief that I am going to Antarctica…how cool is that! So, I’m back on the ice and soon to be “heading to the ice” as folks who have been there before call it!.

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Visual Soliloquy #374 Let us be grateful to people who make us happy, they are the charming gardeners who make our souls blossom…

Let us be grateful to people who make us happy, they are the charming gardeners who make our souls blossom. ~Marcel Proust

 

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Visual Soliloquy #373 Keep a green tree in your heart and perhaps a singing bird will come…

Keep a green tree in your heart and perhaps a singing bird will come. ~Chinese Proverb

 

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Visual Soliloquy #372 We must be willing to get rid of the life we’ve planned, so as to have the life that is waiting for us…

We must be willing to get rid of the life we’ve planned, so as to have the life that is waiting for us. ~Joseph Campbell

 

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Visual Soliloquy #371 The pursuit of happiness is a most ridiculous phrase: if you pursue happiness you’ll never find it…

The pursuit of happiness is a most ridiculous phrase: if you pursue happiness you’ll never find it. ~C.P. Snow

 

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Visual Soliloquy #370 Dig the well before you are thirsty…

Dig the well before you are thirsty. ~Chinese Proverb

 

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Visual Soliloquy #369 To know the road ahead, ask those coming back…

To know the road ahead, ask those coming back.
~Chinese Proverb

 

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Visual Soliloquy #368 When you lose, don’t lose the lesson.

When you lose, don’t lose the lesson. ~Author Unknown

 

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